I have been playing around with different configurations for a custom table and wanted to note some things I’ve landed on that I really like. A main one thing is having the map mounted so that it can slide around as needed on top of a bigger playing area. My table is 65” x 95” in total with a 5.5” arm rest around the outside and the middle is a recessed neoprene surface. I have the OOB Global map mounted on 1/2” rigid foam with a 1/2” aluminum frame around it. This allows the map to slide up close to whoever’s turn it is, but then be in the middle so both players can roll dice In front of them without disturbing the map and in easy view of the other player. (Plus we like lots of room to roll the bones). This ability to adjust the surface along with a standing height, makes it comfortable for long uses because you can move around more and don’t feel as tied down.
Things I’ve learned and changed from original design - I originally used too big of a frame for the map and mounted it on too high of a foam block (you can see these pictures at the bottom) - it made it hard to see the other player’s dice and the big frame took up too much real estate. My global map is mounted on much thinner foam (the framing is bad, you can see if you look closely) but I also used much thinner aluminum angle for the frame. This gives just enough grip when needing to move the map around (I use furniture slides on the bottom, which glide very nicely on the neoprene) but doesn’t make the whole thing too bulky. Having it an inch or so off the surface keeps the dice off, but isn’t so heigh that you can’t see the other player’s dice rolls. When playing other versions (such as Zombies) the board is much smaller, but it can easily swap in and out on the same table since it can move around where ever it is needed or be pushed aside.
I originally made it normal table height, but found long reaches while sitting were harder and it just felt cramped. Standing height with a bar stool is a great way to have the best of both worlds.
The 5.5” rim around the table itself gives you a nice arm rest that doesn’t interfere with the gaming surface. I’m playing with how to best add some cushion to this part - open to suggestions. Sometimes I just lay a piece of leftover neoprene on it.
Dice bounce nice on the neoprene and stay off the floor. It also feels nice and has enough give to allow things to slide but be picked up easily. Wouldn’t definitely go with neoprene again as a surface covering.
I made the drawers open to the inside of the table so you can stay hunched over the action while accessing and stowing stuff away. 50/50 on whether I would keep this if I were to do it again. If I were doing it again, I might try to build customer drawers form scratch using actual drawer glides, but that was beyond my ability when I first did this, so I just used clear plexiglass boxes with aluminum pulls mounted on them. It’s nice having them clear, and I was happy with how the pulls came out, but without glides they can be a little fussy sliding in and out of their slots.
I originally designed the table so that I could put a cover surface back on top when not in use, but find I don’t really ever do that, so if I were to do it again, I might not mess with that part (I never even finished staining those as you can see in the pictures).
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My A&A board table
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Originally built in 1994 to specifications for a 2nd edition map that came with an expansion rules set (Gamers Paradise in Chicago). I have since replaced the map underneath the glass twice (Revised and then Anniversary). The map is larger than the OOB to fit more pieces, so that’s a good thing, plus the glass protects the map from wear and spills.
There are shelves on the sides to hold a beverage as well as to roll against.
We like letting the dice fly when we battle!
It is in two pieces with metal inserts/slots underneath to keep the pieces on the same plane. There are also handles on back for transporting from the closet to the table top. I have actually traveled with this once to a friends house as it just fit in the back of my Durango.
This was the first customization project after I moved into my house, and for 20 years, this battle board has past the wear and tear of many a battle.
Nice to see others have the sasme sick addiction as I do :wink: :-)
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Nice. Gives me an idea or two for a portable Global table.
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Great table, Great pictures, Thanks for sharing it with us. I can’t believe your game room with all that light coming in. My wife has banished our A&A games to the basement, which makes us all cranky after 12 hours, what with the lack of sunshine and concrete walls…. lol. I noticed that your neutral territories have no IPC value printed on them, was that on purpose, or an error?
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Yea that map looks like an IL map reproduction…
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yes, IL, you sent me a customized re-sized version of your map. I printed it out for under the glass.
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@Young:
Great table, Great pictures, Thanks for sharing it with us. I can’t believe your game room with all that light coming in. My wife has banished our A&A games to the basement, which makes us all cranky after 12 hours, what with the lack of sunshine and concrete walls…. lol.
Yep, when it’s warm enough 50+ F, we use the three season room off the back of the house. My favorite room of the house, with all the glass windows, it is very bright and plenty of fresh air when it is even warmer out.
@Young:
I noticed that your neutral territories have no IPC value printed on them, was that on purpose, or an error?
In AA50, nuetrals are not used. Perhaps you are thinking of a global map?
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Wow, You’re right…… I haven’t played 50 in so long.
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A good-looking table! Nice work.
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This is really nice. It’s good to see someone put so much effort into the game, no matter what the version.
It also makes me want a three season room.