But either way, I think you may be breaking the rules and may get a take down notice.
Haven’t had a takedown notice in 21 years. <knock on wood>
I’m wondering if “downloading” means a software download that allows you to download the images. Some of these companies used to use software like that for transferring large files before “the cloud” was more ubiquitous.
IIRC, a few years back WotC sent me some image assets and I had to download some software to get them.
@Cloudesley This looks beautiful and easy to reference; do I assume correctly that you designed these to match the dimensions of the OOB 1940 unit pieces boxes? Will you make these available for download or purchase?
@coedewa What specific questions about camo do you have?
Here is a process I provided earlier in the thread re: a German woodland camo for armor. I’ll reiterate that you want to go light to dark when applying colors.
The woodland camo is a 3 step process. First of all, I painted a dark khaki color, based off of a photograph or drawing. Then I painted a burnt sienna brown in stripes and an occasional “splotch”, to simulate the camo. Then I painted a dark forest green overlapping the brown, making sure to cover most of the piece. There are many different kinds of camo, but as a general rule, it looks better when it overlaps, when it’s not a predictable pattern (you don’t want parallel stripes running along the length of the piece :-)), and when you cover the entire piece, then paint details over it. This makes it look more authentic in my opinion.
Got some facelift for my gaming table:
In addition there’s a steel panel below the map, needed for the new created flight stands and other magnetic stuff: 20210606_204515_1.jpg
Whew….been a long time yeah? Think I have some time again to meander around here a bit 😉 I have nearly completed overhauling the whole of the AAA edition of mine - was trying again to start posting…
Later edit: Yeah…I have posted a photo of some artillery, but it may be that it’s my camera…really bad detail when it comes to using it (a phone) that close. But I have an idea or two - will try again soon~
This is the definitive Yamato class 3D print sculpt from EBard Models.
Available in both the 1941 configuration and the 1944 configuration. EBard’s attention to detail is amazing and is befitting the king of battleships. Available as either the Yamato, Mushashi, Shinano or Kii.
I’ve painted it and added precise decals to the sculpt to bring it to life. It clearly surpasses the typical 3D print level. In finished form it becomes a conversation piece. This is my flagship game piece.
Here is the 1941 configuration with 6" secondary armament on each side:
Musashi Angled View - EBard Resin 1200x900.jpg
Musashi Side View - EBard Resin 1200x900.jpg
Here is the 1944 configuration devoid of secondary side armament and loaded with anti-aircraft guns:
Yamato Angled View - EBard Resin 1200x900.jpg
Yamato Side View - EBard Resin 1200x900.jpg
Yamato Stern View - EBard Resin 1200x900.jpg
Yamato Top View - EBard Resin 1200x900.jpg
Musashi Bottom View - EBard Resin 1200x900.jpg
Visit my site at A&A Boardgaming and see the entire lineup of Japanese ships and more.
Here are my latest ship customizations, the CV-4 Ranger and CV-7 Wasp. These two ships have been missing from my aircraft carrier lineup. Now I have all the US aircraft carriers available from the Lexington class to the Midway class.
The Ranger & Wasp have highly detailed flight decks and authentic hull camouflage. As you can see, the realism is taken to the next level. There simply isn’t anything else like them offered on the market. These look good in pictures but they don’t quite capture the magic of holding one in your hand.
Both are fully magnetized to hold two aircraft.
The Ranger is a 3D print sculpt from EBard Models.
Ranger Angled View - EBard 1200x900.jpg
Ranger Stbd View 1200x900.jpg
Ranger Port View 1200x900.jpg
Ranger Bottom View 1200x900.jpg
The Wasp is also a 3D print sculpt from EBard Models.
CV-7 - Angled View 1200x900.jpg
CV-7 - Port View 1200x900.jpg
CV-7 - Stbd View 1200x900.jpg
CV-7 - Bottom View 1200x900.jpg
Visit my site at A&A Boardgaming and see the entire lineup of US aircraft carriers and more.
@barnee thanks, I was inspired after watching Midway to do them like that, and to differentiate them from fighters for my less observant friends. I liked it so much I did my Stukas and Japanese tacs the same way as well.
@hopper1999 I’ve access to both resin and PLA printers, and while resin has a couple of extra steps compared to PLA, I wouldn’t consider it painful. I’ve come to appreciate resin’s ability to show detail even in very small scale. For me its worth the extra steps to clean and cure, for those results. What’s great is there are so many free units available, with some simple editing/converting you can quickly build cool armies.
As for casting, while I haven’t casted any A&A parts yet (still building my unit library), I have casted a lot of 3.75 action figure parts. I’ve gotten best results using a syringe and pressure pot. (I converted a old paint pressure tank). You inject your mold, and then put it under pressure, I’d do around 30psi, to help the resin into the thinner parts of the mold and prevent bubbles. It also helps, when making your mold to put it under pressure as well. I’ve found it helps prevents bubbles in the silicone and between the silicone and the part being cast.
I plan on using casting to duplicate units I already have, that I can’t find stl files for.
And when you consider how all the other units, tanks, fighters, bombers, and infantry are all their own scales, having consistency in class seems to make the most sense. At least to me. Even if units are the same size in real life, as you said, its easier for non-historians/enthusiasts to pick up the game if unit type x is scale size x.
Maybe if this was just a naval game or a land war game, then all units could be the same scale. As 3D printing becomes more common, I was interested in hearing how others approached this.
I’ve been painting some pieces the last two weeks. I’m having trouble with Rustoleum Lemongrass for the UK. The paint doesn’t apply very well. I use Eden for USA, French blue for France, rustic orange for Japan, flat gray for Germany. Lemongrass is just a pain for whatever reason.
@JustLuthor I have the True Neutral Lid done (All true neutrals and mongolia). I’ll work on the other one soon. Let me know if you need the sides of the box too. The colors may not be fully match with out of game box if printed out. True Neutral Box
I have been playing around with different configurations for a custom table and wanted to note some things I’ve landed on that I really like. A main one thing is having the map mounted so that it can slide around as needed on top of a bigger playing area. My table is 65” x 95” in total with a 5.5” arm rest around the outside and the middle is a recessed neoprene surface. I have the OOB Global map mounted on 1/2” rigid foam with a 1/2” aluminum frame around it. This allows the map to slide up close to whoever’s turn it is, but then be in the middle so both players can roll dice In front of them without disturbing the map and in easy view of the other player. (Plus we like lots of room to roll the bones). This ability to adjust the surface along with a standing height, makes it comfortable for long uses because you can move around more and don’t feel as tied down.
Things I’ve learned and changed from original design - I originally used too big of a frame for the map and mounted it on too high of a foam block (you can see these pictures at the bottom) - it made it hard to see the other player’s dice and the big frame took up too much real estate. My global map is mounted on much thinner foam (the framing is bad, you can see if you look closely) but I also used much thinner aluminum angle for the frame. This gives just enough grip when needing to move the map around (I use furniture slides on the bottom, which glide very nicely on the neoprene) but doesn’t make the whole thing too bulky. Having it an inch or so off the surface keeps the dice off, but isn’t so heigh that you can’t see the other player’s dice rolls. When playing other versions (such as Zombies) the board is much smaller, but it can easily swap in and out on the same table since it can move around where ever it is needed or be pushed aside.
I originally made it normal table height, but found long reaches while sitting were harder and it just felt cramped. Standing height with a bar stool is a great way to have the best of both worlds.
The 5.5” rim around the table itself gives you a nice arm rest that doesn’t interfere with the gaming surface. I’m playing with how to best add some cushion to this part - open to suggestions. Sometimes I just lay a piece of leftover neoprene on it.
Dice bounce nice on the neoprene and stay off the floor. It also feels nice and has enough give to allow things to slide but be picked up easily. Wouldn’t definitely go with neoprene again as a surface covering.
I made the drawers open to the inside of the table so you can stay hunched over the action while accessing and stowing stuff away. 50/50 on whether I would keep this if I were to do it again. If I were doing it again, I might try to build customer drawers form scratch using actual drawer glides, but that was beyond my ability when I first did this, so I just used clear plexiglass boxes with aluminum pulls mounted on them. It’s nice having them clear, and I was happy with how the pulls came out, but without glides they can be a little fussy sliding in and out of their slots.
I originally designed the table so that I could put a cover surface back on top when not in use, but find I don’t really ever do that, so if I were to do it again, I might not mess with that part (I never even finished staining those as you can see in the pictures).
CF362D52-269F-4480-8CBB-08139099138F.jpeg A9E12EA1-66EB-4671-86AC-68C62FD30AD5.jpeg 858DE1F2-030A-4D5A-93E4-70A7D1180ADB.jpeg 8F513EE0-DA37-4BA9-880E-4D5EF7BF431F.jpeg F0188165-757B-4CC1-BF67-5045832283C9.jpeg 2E3CD627-0D31-4121-ACF8-682F9F58A40B.jpeg
@fieldcommander The only issue with the larger map 5x10 are the reach ranges. So if leave some space around the edges for pieces and such you might have a hard time reaching the middle of the board, like the all important Mediterranean, especially if you have short arms like me!