I have been playing around with different configurations for a custom table and wanted to note some things I’ve landed on that I really like. A main one thing is having the map mounted so that it can slide around as needed on top of a bigger playing area. My table is 65” x 95” in total with a 5.5” arm rest around the outside and the middle is a recessed neoprene surface. I have the OOB Global map mounted on 1/2” rigid foam with a 1/2” aluminum frame around it. This allows the map to slide up close to whoever’s turn it is, but then be in the middle so both players can roll dice In front of them without disturbing the map and in easy view of the other player. (Plus we like lots of room to roll the bones). This ability to adjust the surface along with a standing height, makes it comfortable for long uses because you can move around more and don’t feel as tied down.
Things I’ve learned and changed from original design - I originally used too big of a frame for the map and mounted it on too high of a foam block (you can see these pictures at the bottom) - it made it hard to see the other player’s dice and the big frame took up too much real estate. My global map is mounted on much thinner foam (the framing is bad, you can see if you look closely) but I also used much thinner aluminum angle for the frame. This gives just enough grip when needing to move the map around (I use furniture slides on the bottom, which glide very nicely on the neoprene) but doesn’t make the whole thing too bulky. Having it an inch or so off the surface keeps the dice off, but isn’t so heigh that you can’t see the other player’s dice rolls. When playing other versions (such as Zombies) the board is much smaller, but it can easily swap in and out on the same table since it can move around where ever it is needed or be pushed aside.
I originally made it normal table height, but found long reaches while sitting were harder and it just felt cramped. Standing height with a bar stool is a great way to have the best of both worlds.
The 5.5” rim around the table itself gives you a nice arm rest that doesn’t interfere with the gaming surface. I’m playing with how to best add some cushion to this part - open to suggestions. Sometimes I just lay a piece of leftover neoprene on it.
Dice bounce nice on the neoprene and stay off the floor. It also feels nice and has enough give to allow things to slide but be picked up easily. Wouldn’t definitely go with neoprene again as a surface covering.
I made the drawers open to the inside of the table so you can stay hunched over the action while accessing and stowing stuff away. 50/50 on whether I would keep this if I were to do it again. If I were doing it again, I might try to build customer drawers form scratch using actual drawer glides, but that was beyond my ability when I first did this, so I just used clear plexiglass boxes with aluminum pulls mounted on them. It’s nice having them clear, and I was happy with how the pulls came out, but without glides they can be a little fussy sliding in and out of their slots.
I originally designed the table so that I could put a cover surface back on top when not in use, but find I don’t really ever do that, so if I were to do it again, I might not mess with that part (I never even finished staining those as you can see in the pictures).
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Global Gaming Table
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Cool pics.
There is enough room to walk around the table if you can’t sit anymore. :-D
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Very good-looking table! The stained wood frame is an especially nice touch.
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Yeah there is heaps of room. I’ve noticed after about 10 hours of our current Global game that there is not a lot of sitting going on.
Should finish today. The allies are looking very strong right now. Germany should fall within 2 rounds. After that its onto Japan which should go within 3 or so.
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Simply beautiful and you’re clearly a fan with friends, but where are the coasters or cup holders?
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Simply beautiful and you’re clearly a fan with friends, but where are the coasters or cup holders?
I think that drinks should be kept across the room from A&A boards in general, and in an entirely different room from gaming tables as nice as this one. Just one spill could be catastrophic.
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Simply beautiful and you’re clearly a fan with friends, but where are the coasters or cup holders?
I’ve thought about that, but a spill wouldn’t be good. There are tables in the room for drinks.
A couple things for revision 2 of the table after playing this game will probably be inlaid dice boxes, at least 2, if not one on each corner. Maybe 9" squared will fit in there nice. The foam allows for comfort but the dice bounce a bit which isn’t a big deal but can be annoying if they bounce off the table.
Also might do a A&A logo up top and inlay that as well.
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@CWO:
Simply beautiful and you’re clearly a fan with friends, but where are the coasters or cup holders?
I think that drinks should be kept across the room from A&A boards in general, and in an entirely different room from gaming tables as nice as this one. Just one spill could be catastrophic.
Drinks aren’t allowed near the game table in my house either. A rule that was put in place after my poor settlers of catan game took a bath from a spilled drink.
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Bah it isn’t Axis and Allies if there is combat damage from the odd beer spill on the board.
Nothing like that Rum and Coke smell when you lift the lid off your AA50 box!
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This is very nice! I want to make one like this.
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we made a table for really cheap. just took one of those 6’ x 2’ tables from any store….the kind they use at gaming shops. anyway, then just buy a 8x4 piece of plywood from your local hardware store. cut it in half and put hinges on it for easy foldable storage. then just throw it on top, along with a table cloth whenever you want to play a large game.
Here is my table in the unfinished basement of a friends house. Got a game of warhammer going on it right now, but you get the idea.
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h104/niku13/DSCI0004.jpg
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h104/niku13/DSCI0003.jpg
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h104/niku13/DSCI0002.jpg -
leather……thats a good idea. Couldn’t fold it though.
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Ack! Unpainted minis going to battle! Major gamer faux pax…
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i made a table for Axis & Allies global 1940. the board itself sits on a 4 inch pedastle, surround by a tray wide enough for the boxes for each power. then a 3inch border around the outside. i stained the wood, then used 2 coats of clear poly to seal it. also works to keep condensation from beer cans and iced drinks from soaking into the wood. but the clear made the top very smooth and slick, so i used small circular velco pieces to keep the boards from sliding around. i also had an old dice tower i had made years back, which is able to fit in the surrounding tray and to be moved around the board. under the board itself i created storage spaces for hiding the boxes. currently the table has no legs, i set it on an old table in my basement, but i am trying to figure out a way to mount foldable legs under it.
i used cheap pine 1x3’s, 1x4’s, and 1/4 inch plywood. with stain, poly, 1 paint brush, and some sand paper i had, i probably have about $40 into it.
works very well, we really like the elevated board.
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couple more pics of the table
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All you need to complete the set up is a war rake :-D
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lol, just made 2 of them today. one for the axis, one for the allies. :-D
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Can you give us some pics? Please
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couple more pics of the table
A very nice job indeed Kris. You may want to consider some plexi to cover the map. Can’t
tell from the pix wether the map sections with the game boxes below are supported throughout or just on the borders -
Nice table! And clever way to store te boxes as well.
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thanks fellas. i thought the movable dice tower thing was really cool, but truth be told, we never use it. both my opponet and i like to roll into a box by hand. for mojo you know…
the map sections are each supported around the edges, so if you push down in the middle, there is a little give to them. the best way i found to fix that is not push down on the middles. :-P i thought of putting a brace across the middle for support, but that would affect my storage areas.
i checked into some plexi to cover the whole board, but for the size piece i would need it would cost around $50. i cant quite justify that yet. i stress yet. i believe with a little effort and luck i can find one cheaper.
i made the rakes with just pieces i had laying around. not sure if they will ever get used, but sometime i am bored i may stain them or add some axis and allies symbols to them. whatever, whenever.