I have been playing around with different configurations for a custom table and wanted to note some things I’ve landed on that I really like. A main one thing is having the map mounted so that it can slide around as needed on top of a bigger playing area. My table is 65” x 95” in total with a 5.5” arm rest around the outside and the middle is a recessed neoprene surface. I have the OOB Global map mounted on 1/2” rigid foam with a 1/2” aluminum frame around it. This allows the map to slide up close to whoever’s turn it is, but then be in the middle so both players can roll dice In front of them without disturbing the map and in easy view of the other player. (Plus we like lots of room to roll the bones). This ability to adjust the surface along with a standing height, makes it comfortable for long uses because you can move around more and don’t feel as tied down.
Things I’ve learned and changed from original design - I originally used too big of a frame for the map and mounted it on too high of a foam block (you can see these pictures at the bottom) - it made it hard to see the other player’s dice and the big frame took up too much real estate. My global map is mounted on much thinner foam (the framing is bad, you can see if you look closely) but I also used much thinner aluminum angle for the frame. This gives just enough grip when needing to move the map around (I use furniture slides on the bottom, which glide very nicely on the neoprene) but doesn’t make the whole thing too bulky. Having it an inch or so off the surface keeps the dice off, but isn’t so heigh that you can’t see the other player’s dice rolls. When playing other versions (such as Zombies) the board is much smaller, but it can easily swap in and out on the same table since it can move around where ever it is needed or be pushed aside.
I originally made it normal table height, but found long reaches while sitting were harder and it just felt cramped. Standing height with a bar stool is a great way to have the best of both worlds.
The 5.5” rim around the table itself gives you a nice arm rest that doesn’t interfere with the gaming surface. I’m playing with how to best add some cushion to this part - open to suggestions. Sometimes I just lay a piece of leftover neoprene on it.
Dice bounce nice on the neoprene and stay off the floor. It also feels nice and has enough give to allow things to slide but be picked up easily. Wouldn’t definitely go with neoprene again as a surface covering.
I made the drawers open to the inside of the table so you can stay hunched over the action while accessing and stowing stuff away. 50/50 on whether I would keep this if I were to do it again. If I were doing it again, I might try to build customer drawers form scratch using actual drawer glides, but that was beyond my ability when I first did this, so I just used clear plexiglass boxes with aluminum pulls mounted on them. It’s nice having them clear, and I was happy with how the pulls came out, but without glides they can be a little fussy sliding in and out of their slots.
I originally designed the table so that I could put a cover surface back on top when not in use, but find I don’t really ever do that, so if I were to do it again, I might not mess with that part (I never even finished staining those as you can see in the pictures).
CF362D52-269F-4480-8CBB-08139099138F.jpeg A9E12EA1-66EB-4671-86AC-68C62FD30AD5.jpeg 858DE1F2-030A-4D5A-93E4-70A7D1180ADB.jpeg 8F513EE0-DA37-4BA9-880E-4D5EF7BF431F.jpeg F0188165-757B-4CC1-BF67-5045832283C9.jpeg 2E3CD627-0D31-4121-ACF8-682F9F58A40B.jpeg
Game Aids A&A 1940 Global 2nd Edition
-
Ok, i was just pointing out that it should be IPC instead of iPC 8-)
-
Got the Set-Ups printed out, now I have nice large, easy to read set up cards.
Beautiful, I love them, thank you so much for making them. Beats having a lame few pages of printer paper with the game set up on them by a long shot. -
Got the Set-Ups printed out, now I have nice large, easy to read set up cards.
Beautiful, I love them, thank you so much for making them. Beats having a lame few pages of printer paper with the game set up on them by a long shot.Did you make the changes to reflect 2nd edition setups? There were changes to units.
-
@IKE:
Got the Set-Ups printed out, now I have nice large, easy to read set up cards.
Beautiful, I love them, thank you so much for making them. Beats having a lame few pages of printer paper with the game set up on them by a long shot.Did you make the changes to reflect 2nd edition setups? There were changes to units.
Think ya should read the thread title again :wink:
-
Whoops, I was thinking of the other thread with BCguitar’s set up cards.
-
Missed one NO for Germany: +5 IPCs for Axis control of the Caucasus.
fixed
@mattsk:2.- error on NO chart- Germany "+5iPC: Germany controls Novgorod (Leningrad) "
fixed
Also, on the Chinese NO symbol, I wondered why you didn’t have the crossed swords and the little Japanese symbol on that one.
I also noticed none of your US NOs had any Axis symbols. The first and third US NO should have all three Axis symbols in them, the second and fourth should have just Japan’s symbol and the fifth should have Germany and Italy.according to the rulebook, there are no specifications about with whom the US is supposed to be at war to gain the advantage of the NO’s
1.- what paper size should i print it on?
the small charts are 1.5x A6; the two big ones are A3
@cyanight:I was using a NO chart but the problem arises when you count for all the European Axis territories for Russia. If you can see in my previous post’s photo that we use cards. I made a card for each possible territory that Russia can take. The cards seem to work better for us.
I see the problem… I’d use the grey/green/red chips in this case, but there are certainly advantes with the card system
Thanks for all the work on these. We used them at our last gaming weekend. I put magnetic paper under the charts and glued washers to a few roundels of each power.
Thank you so much for the pictures! I’m really really happy, somebody has some use for that material ;-)
@ch0senfktard:Got the Set-Ups printed out, now I have nice large, easy to read set up cards.
Beautiful, I love them, thank you so much for making them. Beats having a lame few pages of printer paper with the game set up on them by a long shot.I’m happy you enjoy them! Thanks for the comment.
-
These charts are great, I have them printed out and laminated. But we noticed an odd thing, namely that on the order of play sequence France is missing.
-
What do the roundels inside the NO circles represent? Who you have to be at war with?
-
These guides are amazing! Thank you so much for creating them!
Sorry to post on an old thread, and I don’t expect the changes to be made but I did notice a few things about the National Objective sheet:
Missing bonus for Germany: +5 IPC: 1 German Land unit in Axis-Controlled Egypt
Typo for Germany bonus: +5 IPC: Axis controlled Caucasus
Typo for Russian bonus: +5 IPC: …no Allied units in original Soviet territories
Typo for Russian bonus: +3 IPC: Per territory controlled by Soviet Union -
Wait, where is the NO for the Caucasus? I can’t see it anywhere, but I may be missing it…
-
hello, sorry to dig up an old thread but does anyone have a NO sheet with the corrections above?
thanks!
-Z -
hello, sorry to dig up an old thread but does anyone have a NO sheet with the corrections above?
thanks!
-ZWhen you open the link in the original post you’ll find the most recent version with most of the changes mentioned. Except for the typos mentioned by iceyinferno.
-
thanks, Tjoek. i have that one and it is missing the 5 IPCs for one german land unit in egypt. easy to remember but id like something that my players can reference and i dont have to remind them of the missing objective.
i found these that are very purdy but a bit large (2 sheets). ive found only one typo so far - Solomon Islands should read Line Islands on the US Objective.
edit - it wont let me post links. on boardgame geek, search for axis and allies 1940 europe and click on the file link. look at the files posted by Ghetty called Global Axis National Objectives and Global Allies National Objectives
-
edit - it wont let me post links. on boardgame geek, search for axis and allies 1940 europe and click on the file link. look at the files posted by Ghetty called Global Axis National Objectives and Global Allies National Objectives
Thanks for sharing this bigfruits. (you can start sharing links after you’ve posted a minimum of 10 posts I think).
Another option for tracking the NO’s is using the card decks from either Young Grasshoper or Siredblood. See their threads for more details:
-
Young Grasshoper’s card deck: http://www.axisandallies.org/forums/index.php?topic=39907.0
-
Siredblood’s card deck: http://www.axisandallies.org/forums/index.php?topic=39072.0
-
-
Thank you Spirou. I am using some of the game aides you posted. The NO chart is my favorite of all the ones I’ve seen but i had to go with a different one. If you ever update it and post the link I will. Be very happy to print it.
-
Big fan of your work and printed it a few years ago but found it was missing a few NO. So I read the chat here to see if it was updated and looked over the NO chart to. It has 1 missing NO for German “5 IPCs if at least 1 German land unit is in Axis-controlled Egypt. Theme: Gateway to the Middle East oilfields (high propaganda value).”
-
-
@Cloudesley This looks beautiful and easy to reference; do I assume correctly that you designed these to match the dimensions of the OOB 1940 unit pieces boxes? Will you make these available for download or purchase?
-
@cloudesley love the look and layout. In my opinion, the Germany card is a little confusing with the way the Denmark/Finland/Sweden bonus is set up. It gives the impression that you get 5 for each of those, but it is only 5 if all three of those are met.
Suggested Topics
