I have been playing around with different configurations for a custom table and wanted to note some things I’ve landed on that I really like. A main one thing is having the map mounted so that it can slide around as needed on top of a bigger playing area. My table is 65” x 95” in total with a 5.5” arm rest around the outside and the middle is a recessed neoprene surface. I have the OOB Global map mounted on 1/2” rigid foam with a 1/2” aluminum frame around it. This allows the map to slide up close to whoever’s turn it is, but then be in the middle so both players can roll dice In front of them without disturbing the map and in easy view of the other player. (Plus we like lots of room to roll the bones). This ability to adjust the surface along with a standing height, makes it comfortable for long uses because you can move around more and don’t feel as tied down.
Things I’ve learned and changed from original design - I originally used too big of a frame for the map and mounted it on too high of a foam block (you can see these pictures at the bottom) - it made it hard to see the other player’s dice and the big frame took up too much real estate. My global map is mounted on much thinner foam (the framing is bad, you can see if you look closely) but I also used much thinner aluminum angle for the frame. This gives just enough grip when needing to move the map around (I use furniture slides on the bottom, which glide very nicely on the neoprene) but doesn’t make the whole thing too bulky. Having it an inch or so off the surface keeps the dice off, but isn’t so heigh that you can’t see the other player’s dice rolls. When playing other versions (such as Zombies) the board is much smaller, but it can easily swap in and out on the same table since it can move around where ever it is needed or be pushed aside.
I originally made it normal table height, but found long reaches while sitting were harder and it just felt cramped. Standing height with a bar stool is a great way to have the best of both worlds.
The 5.5” rim around the table itself gives you a nice arm rest that doesn’t interfere with the gaming surface. I’m playing with how to best add some cushion to this part - open to suggestions. Sometimes I just lay a piece of leftover neoprene on it.
Dice bounce nice on the neoprene and stay off the floor. It also feels nice and has enough give to allow things to slide but be picked up easily. Wouldn’t definitely go with neoprene again as a surface covering.
I made the drawers open to the inside of the table so you can stay hunched over the action while accessing and stowing stuff away. 50/50 on whether I would keep this if I were to do it again. If I were doing it again, I might try to build customer drawers form scratch using actual drawer glides, but that was beyond my ability when I first did this, so I just used clear plexiglass boxes with aluminum pulls mounted on them. It’s nice having them clear, and I was happy with how the pulls came out, but without glides they can be a little fussy sliding in and out of their slots.
I originally designed the table so that I could put a cover surface back on top when not in use, but find I don’t really ever do that, so if I were to do it again, I might not mess with that part (I never even finished staining those as you can see in the pictures).
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Sired's Map project - Updated- 4/16 - files available see first post
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This looks awesome!
Seeing how you were adding cities to make it look more like a real ‘map’, I would personally add a couple more cities, like Darwin (In northern Territory), Johannesburg or Cape Town in South Africa, Olso in Norway, Novosibirsk in Novosibirsk (lol) and maybe Vladivostok in Amur (although geographically it might be in Korea). But this is just me.
Map looks amazing, again :-D
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Thanks U571!
Added Cape Town, and made the Capitals Red, with an extra strobe px.
Ill be getting my 3rd print today, im very picky, so I keep doing minor color tweeks… Its no big deal, these maps are not wasted, I need 6 maps for my event anyway… goal is though, today print the remaining 4.
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Can you send me one? I will send money!!!
PM me if this is possible. -
Can you send me one? I will send money!!!
PM me if this is possible.No problem, but I’d prefer you to wait to pay me till after I post pics and vid of final product…. but ya, I’d be more then happy to send you a copy.
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I might have you customize a couple things for me (ie use the swaztica roundel for germans and the russian star). I would gladly pay you for your time. We are already lucky as a community that you are making your file available to us
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Really impressive map Siredblood! You’re definitely a great artist. Would love to see it in person, but that will be a challenge for now :-)
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I read or watched a YG vid where he mentioned about printed maps scratching, I just clear coated one of mine before I show a setup, will be dry for sure by the time I get home after work, so pics tonight :) …. when I ordered my 6 maps, they made an additional one for free for me to test on, which I sprayed last night, which you cant even tell… can’t show that map as I cut it into 4 pieces so I would be able to run 4 tests… turns out test 1 was good
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I read or watched a YG vid where he mentioned about printed maps scratching, I just clear coated one of mine before I show a setup, will be dry for sure by the time I get home after work, so pics tonight :) …. when I ordered my 6 maps, they made an additional one for free for me to test on, which I sprayed last night, which you cant even tell… can�t show that map as I cut it into 4 pieces so I would be able to run 4 tests… turns out test 1 was good
You sprayed with rustoleum dull matte finish right ? Did the edges roll up an inch ? Thats the spray I use.
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I used a water based satin… I’ll clarify what when I get home, but no it didn’t roll… it is printed on a pretty thick vinyl though, about double the thickness as a map from hbg g36
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I used a water based satin… I�ll clarify what when I get home, but no it didn�t roll… it is printed on a pretty thick vinyl though, about double the thickness as a map from hbg g36
Ok Thank You
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I used minwax polycrylic … water based, not much of a smell, dries clear and fast… think it was 10 bucks… about used the whole can lol
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I read or watched a YG vid where he mentioned about printed maps scratching, I just clear coated one of mine before I show a setup, will be dry for sure by the time I get home after work, so pics tonight :) …. when I ordered my 6 maps, they made an additional one for free for me to test on, which I sprayed last night, which you cant even tell… can�t show that map as I cut it into 4 pieces so I would be able to run 4 tests… turns out test 1 was good
Does that extra coat make a huge impact on scratch resistance? I’m looking to get my nearly finished Global map printed, but cannot find a local print shop that does laminating at all. So sealing the print myself might be the best solution.
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I have to go with yes, I didn’t dare to try and scratch my actual board, but I did try to grind my nails into my test one, and nothing happened, while I can for sure tell you it damaged before without…. I can’t speak for any success with other variables… but from what I printed on and the spray I used was a win.
When I got my maps, I was told it don’t scratch… so to varify we tried to scratch one of their demos… he was surprised how easily it scratched, thus why I got a free print to test to make it more resistant… but ya, you gotta clear coat it.
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I have to go with yes, I didn�t dare to try and scratch my actual board
I would call you mad if you did :-D
, but I did try to grind my nails into my test one, and nothing happened, while I can for sure tell you it damaged before without…. I can�t speak for any success with other variables… but from what I printed on and the spray I used was a win.
When I got my maps, I was told it don�t scratch… so to varify we tried to scratch one of their demos… he was surprised how easily it scratched, thus why I got a free print to test to make it more resistant… but ya, you gotta clear coat it.
Thanks for the confirmation. I will look into a good mat clear coat.
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I have to go with yes, I didn�t dare to try and scratch my actual board, but I did try to grind my nails into my test one, and nothing happened, while I can for sure tell you it damaged before without…. I can�t speak for any success with other variables… but from what I printed on and the spray I used was a win.
When I got my maps, I was told it don�t scratch… so to varify we tried to scratch one of their demos… he was surprised how easily it scratched, thus why I got a free print to test to make it more resistant… but ya, you gotta clear coat it.
Thanks for this info. I get my printed map on Monday. They said they don’t laminate either.
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Here is a vid of the map, hope it comes out well… my first vid with my new camera.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PdolnzSyWrw&feature=youtu.be
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Here is a vid of the map, hope it comes out well… my first vid with my new camera.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PdolnzSyWrw&feature=youtu.be
Excellent work. I can’t imagine how many hours it took you. I am in awe how far guys go for this hobby. I appreciate seeing all the great things on this site. Keep it up.
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Amazing! Will you be offering this up to the community to print and play on?
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Amazing! Will you be offering this up to the community to print and play on?
Yes, I have a few minor tweeks I want to do, which ill do over this week…. nothing major, just playing on it yesterday, I saw a few things id like to adjust… stuff no one would notice but me… but my OCD cant let it go lol.
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Good job on that map brother! Bravo.
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