I have been playing around with different configurations for a custom table and wanted to note some things I’ve landed on that I really like. A main one thing is having the map mounted so that it can slide around as needed on top of a bigger playing area. My table is 65” x 95” in total with a 5.5” arm rest around the outside and the middle is a recessed neoprene surface. I have the OOB Global map mounted on 1/2” rigid foam with a 1/2” aluminum frame around it. This allows the map to slide up close to whoever’s turn it is, but then be in the middle so both players can roll dice In front of them without disturbing the map and in easy view of the other player. (Plus we like lots of room to roll the bones). This ability to adjust the surface along with a standing height, makes it comfortable for long uses because you can move around more and don’t feel as tied down.
Things I’ve learned and changed from original design - I originally used too big of a frame for the map and mounted it on too high of a foam block (you can see these pictures at the bottom) - it made it hard to see the other player’s dice and the big frame took up too much real estate. My global map is mounted on much thinner foam (the framing is bad, you can see if you look closely) but I also used much thinner aluminum angle for the frame. This gives just enough grip when needing to move the map around (I use furniture slides on the bottom, which glide very nicely on the neoprene) but doesn’t make the whole thing too bulky. Having it an inch or so off the surface keeps the dice off, but isn’t so heigh that you can’t see the other player’s dice rolls. When playing other versions (such as Zombies) the board is much smaller, but it can easily swap in and out on the same table since it can move around where ever it is needed or be pushed aside.
I originally made it normal table height, but found long reaches while sitting were harder and it just felt cramped. Standing height with a bar stool is a great way to have the best of both worlds.
The 5.5” rim around the table itself gives you a nice arm rest that doesn’t interfere with the gaming surface. I’m playing with how to best add some cushion to this part - open to suggestions. Sometimes I just lay a piece of leftover neoprene on it.
Dice bounce nice on the neoprene and stay off the floor. It also feels nice and has enough give to allow things to slide but be picked up easily. Wouldn’t definitely go with neoprene again as a surface covering.
I made the drawers open to the inside of the table so you can stay hunched over the action while accessing and stowing stuff away. 50/50 on whether I would keep this if I were to do it again. If I were doing it again, I might try to build customer drawers form scratch using actual drawer glides, but that was beyond my ability when I first did this, so I just used clear plexiglass boxes with aluminum pulls mounted on them. It’s nice having them clear, and I was happy with how the pulls came out, but without glides they can be a little fussy sliding in and out of their slots.
I originally designed the table so that I could put a cover surface back on top when not in use, but find I don’t really ever do that, so if I were to do it again, I might not mess with that part (I never even finished staining those as you can see in the pictures).
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United States Set from Historical Board Gaming!
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These are 50 times better than WOTC pieces.
AS soon as we can buy let me know!
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THUMBS UP X 1G
J. 8-)
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Coach, these are awesome, I am in to purchase at least 4 sets of these as soon as they are available. Keep up the excellent work.
Cheers :-D :-D :-D :-D -
Wow. Those pieces are… perfect.
I want 200 of the P40’s, please :-D
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FANTASTIC work “Coach”. I’m looking forward to buying some of these units also as I just ordered a couple of your US Marine sets. Just an observation, but it looks like the air transport is a C-46 Commandoe instead of a C-47 Skytrain. Maybe I missed that in some of the forums(?). I’m certainly NOT complaining though as I’ll be glad to have it as well as ALL of the other wonderful units you’re producing for us thankful A&A fans. Thanks again for your SERIOUS effort, Doug. “Tall Paul”.
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Yes, it is the C-46 Commando, since FMG is doing the C-47, I decided to do a different Transport. The C-46 was used to fly over the hump after the Burma road was closed.
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“Coach”,
The C-46 Commandoe also completely replaced the C-47 Skytrain units assigned to the 374th Troop Carrier Wing(5th AF) in New Guinea and later.
These “transport” missions were considered as COMBAT missions and most were flown without fighter support. “Tall Paul”
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Aw MAN! Those look FABULOUS. Can’t wait to order them myself.
Hey coach, any ideas on a piece count yet (# of each unit)? You once mentioned the whole US set would be about 50 pieces. Here is my guess:
4 each of all land vehicles
4 each of all planes
2 each of the ships
10 each of the airborne infantryThat would total 50 pieces. Let me know how close I am.
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Early war Battleship should be 3-3-2 and take 2 hits and USA starts with.
Early war tank is 2-2-2 armor that USA starts with.
Escort carrier takes one plane, 0-2-2-10 one hit too.
Tank Destroyer attacks or defends at 3 when enemy tank present otherwise a 2-2-2-5 unit. Either that or if it rolls a 1 the hit can go against tank or non- infantry land unit.
Transport plane: costs 10 moves 6 is the only plane that can be used for Paratroopers. Carry’s 1 INF in combat move or 2 in NCM
Truck unit not sure.
Long range fighter is mustang
other planes are replacement for OOB
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@coachofmany:
Yes, it is the C-46 Commando, since FMG is doing the C-47, I decided to do a different Transport. The C-46 was used to fly over the hump after the Burma road was closed.
Hey Coach, I remember my first ride in a c-46 was from Indianapolis to MCRD in San Diego. No pressurized cabin. When I got off the plane my ears were plugged up to the point I could not even hear the drill instructer yelling. lol
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Good ideas for the piece stats IL. Not so sure about the early war battleship though. I know that it shouldn’t be as good as later models, but it just feels weird to me lowering the att/def to 3. It’s like a 2-hit cruiser now. Yeah, I know they were lesser armed than later models, and slower. Another idea: 4-3-2 and take 1 hit.
Either way you go, I think cost should be 18, just a little cheaper than more modern battleships.
Perhaps trucks could be like transport planes but for land. Carry 2 infantry 2 spaces NCM, 1 infantry 2 spaces CM. No attack/defense value.Hey Coach, are you making the US set available in the dark green and olive drab? Or was that just for the Marines? If the latter, which color are you choosing for the USA set?
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US set will be done in olive drab like OOB color,
If there is enough interest, and when I get FMG color confirmation, I will do in their color also. -
I for one hope that Coach makes all US units in Dark AAP Marine green, since FMG’s USA dice is that same color and FMG has said in the past that the units will color match their dice. So Coach’s Dark AAP Marine Green = FMG upcoming USA Green.
I would much rather have Dark green than Olive Green since I will be using Coach’s sculpts to supplement FMG’s sets. Am I alone here?
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I’m with you, buddy :-D
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Here’s an idea. When FMG’s US set comes out, they will be making them in the same color as their combat dice, which is roughly the same color as the AAP Marine pieces, or HBG’s current Marine set. HBG is also coming out with an olive drab Marine set. With his USA supplement set, HBG is first doing olive drab but will make them in FMG’s color later on. So, HBG’s USA supplement set should eventually also be availiable in both colors.
Assuming this is the case, we might all get the regular US pieces from FMG and HBG in the dark green color and use HBG’s olive drab Marine set for US Marines in our games. We will in effect be reversing the way we currently play. That will be cool with me because I think I like the dark green color for USA better anyway.
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I hope my sales in the first two sets allow me to do two colors for the US set.
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@coachofmany:
I hope my sales in the first two sets allow me to do two colors for the US set.
Well, while I can’t speak for everyone else, I think you will do okay. Your pieces are looking really cool and when some people get their first sets, they will probably order even more. I’ve already orderd 5 of the dark green Marines and plan to order 5 sets of the olive drab Marines. Will be ordering a LOT of the Axis Minors when they get in, especially black and grey. Plus I already know that I will be getting 5 sets of the US supplement set and if you offer a 2nd color, then I will get 5 more. The pre-production samples look fabulous.
Hey coach, could we get a couple of close-ups on the battleship and escort carrier?
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These look amazing. When can we expect to be able to purchase them?
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US olive set is leaving today, I should have them in 10 -14 days.
Minor set colors have finally been approved, allow 4-5 weeks.
US set sculpts have minor revisions, they will then go to making mold.
Colors have been approved.
Probably 8 weeks away. -
@coachofmany:
US olive set is leaving today, I should have them in 10 -14 days.
Minor set colors have finally been approved, allow 4-5 weeks.
US set sculpts have minor revisions, they will then go to making mold.
Colors have been approved.
Probably 8 weeks away.WOW! Three full sets all coming out within 2 months. Way to crank them out coach!
Man, you are going to be really busy filling orders. On the plus side, that means lots of $$$$$$.