@Imperious-Leader First of all, chill man, secondly I have contacted renegade but it will take time for them to respond, I just thought that perhaps someone on “Axis&Allies.org” may know some place that sells the unique counters as I know places that sell the other pieces. I didn’t mean to be picky or rude and I assume that’s why you reacted badly.
Thanks again for your help.
HBG - Axis & Allies Parts/Accessories and Custom Piece Sets Store!
-
@HBG. I believe a really good item you gents could sell would be a vinyl map but with very minimal details except for borders, names and sea zones. You could even call it a “House Rules/Customizer Map” maybe even package it with markers and tokens.
I would like one with no values, so you can have a lot of “what if?” scenarios. That way you can put the value of a territory for your home games, yourself?
What if there were major factories in Brazil, Spain, Egypt, Iran or China?
What if Iceland, the Azores, Malta, Crete, Madagascar, Fiji and the Caroline Islands were even more valuable and they developed secret major factories?
Just some thoughts!
You can have a lot of crazy scenarios. :-D
-
Your welcome my friend! Glad to feed your addiction, LOL.
There are plenty of addictions out there which are far more expensive, and which are also quite damaging to one’s health, so in my opinion being a piece junkie is quite a sensible choice if one is going to get hooked on something.
-
@CWO:
Your welcome my friend! Glad to feed your addiction, LOL.
There are plenty of addictions out there which are far more expensive, and which are also quite damaging to one’s health, so in my opinion being a piece junkie is quite a sensible choice if one is going to get hooked on something.
I agree. My wife says it keeps me home and out of trouble. :-D
-
http://www.historicalboardgaming.com/HBG-Battle-Pieces–WW2-Axis-Minor-2-Germany_p_1667.html
One question I have is why this is being called Axis Minor Set 2?
Virtually all sculpts were exclusively or almost exclusively of German design/use. Is there some reason this is not being called German Supplemental or something?
I suppose it is not a big deal, but having a new Tiger I, He-111, Graf Zeppelin and Bismarck sure seem like they should be in a primarily German set.
Simply an issue of semantics, but I am very glad that we are getting them.
-
A word from your friendly neighborhood contractor: part of the point of using primer is that it helps hide the imperfections on a wall or piece of wood as well as providing a great first coat. Using primer on models would hide the imperfections we call awesome detail. So you really shouldn’t use the stuff.
Not necessarily true. I have primed all of my pieces and the detail still comes out. It all depends how you prime and how you pull the details out of the sculpt.
Priming does a few things for you (subject to your preferences):
-
Serves as a base for your other layers of paint and creates a better sticking surface than the bare plastic (do wash your pieces with dish soap before painting or priming)
-
Black primer builds in a base shadow to the piece which can be very helpful for getting into the cracks without using a wash
-
White primer tends to make your other colors exhibit their true, bright color. Black primer may require another coat or two for the same effect
-
Primer can be any color you want, it just depends how you are layering the sculpt
-
Spray priming is always preferable on pieces of this size; you can get a very thin and even coat with either airbrushed primer or aerosol can. Priming with straight up paint on a brush will clog up all the detail areas of your pieces
-
-
A word from your friendly neighborhood contractor: part of the point of using primer is that it helps hide the imperfections on a wall or piece of wood as well as providing a great first coat. Using primer on models would hide the imperfections we call awesome detail. So you really shouldn’t use the stuff.
Not necessarily true. I have primed all of my pieces and the detail still comes out. It all depends how you prime and how you pull the details out of the sculpt.
Priming does a few things for you (subject to your preferences):
-
Serves as a base for your other layers of paint and creates a better sticking surface than the bare plastic (do wash your pieces with dish soap before painting or priming)
-
Black primer builds in a base shadow to the piece which can be very helpful for getting into the cracks without using a wash
-
White primer tends to make your other colors exhibit their true, bright color. Black primer may require another coat or two for the same effect
-
Primer can be any color you want, it just depends how you are layering the sculpt
-
Spray priming is always preferable on pieces of this size; you can get a very thin and even coat with either airbrushed primer or aerosol can. Priming with straight up paint on a brush will clog up all the detail areas of your pieces
I should have made something clear earlier sorry. I have never painted models or even plastic. I was only speaking to the purpose of primer and how (in theory) that effects painting models. Sorry should have said that in the original post.
-
-
I should have made something clear earlier sorry. I have never painted models or even plastic. I was only speaking to the purpose of primer and how (in theory) that effects painting models. Sorry should have said that in the original post.
Your theory has some merit, certainly so when it comes to brushed-on primer. However, there are ways to retain detail and prime also. :wink:
-
I should have made something clear earlier sorry. I have never painted models or even plastic. I was only speaking to the purpose of primer and how (in theory) that effects painting models. Sorry should have said that in the original post.
Your theory has some merit, certainly so when it comes to brushed-on primer. However, there are ways to retain detail and prime also. :wink:
good to know. My experience with primer is as of a contractor. Brushing wood, spraying or rolling drywall, rolling cinderblocks.
-
That may be a mistake on my part. I did NOT wash my pieces first. I just went straight to painting.
@HBG. I believe a really good item you gents could sell would be a vinyl map but with very minimal details except for borders, names and sea zones. You could even call it a “House Rules/Customizer Map” maybe even package it with markers and tokens.
I would like one with no values, so you can have a lot of “what if?” scenarios. That way you can put the value of a territory for your home games, yourself?
What if there were major factories in Brazil, Spain, Egypt, Iran or China?
What if Iceland, the Azores, Malta, Crete, Madagascar, Fiji and the Caroline Islands were even more valuable and they developed secret major factories?
Just some thoughts!
You can have a lot of crazy scenarios. :-D
What an interesting idea. Now Eastern USA is worth 2 IPCs and Johnston Island is worth 10 IPCs.
Although, with a map like this, you could create all new alliances and major powers. Perhaps some sort of South American federation or African kingdom.
-
That may be a mistake on my part. I did NOT wash my pieces first. I just went straight to painting.
It probably will not end up being catastrophic, but it is beneficial to wash your pieces before painting; removes excess oils from the molding process and surface contaminants that might otherwise be problematic for the integrity of the paint and its ability to adhere.
-
That may be a mistake on my part. I did NOT wash my pieces first. I just went straight to painting.
@HBG. I believe a really good item you gents could sell would be a vinyl map but with very minimal details except for borders, names and sea zones. You could even call it a “House Rules/Customizer Map” maybe even package it with markers and tokens.
I would like one with no values, so you can have a lot of “what if?” scenarios. That way you can put the value of a territory for your home games, yourself?
What if there were major factories in Brazil, Spain, Egypt, Iran or China?
What if Iceland, the Azores, Malta, Crete, Madagascar, Fiji and the Caroline Islands were even more valuable and they developed secret major factories?
Just some thoughts!
You can have a lot of crazy scenarios. :-D
What an interesting idea. Now Eastern USA is worth 2 IPCs and Johnston Island is worth 10 IPCs.
Although, with a map like this, you could create all new alliances and major powers. Perhaps some sort of South American federation or African kingdom.
I’m person that thinks outside the box.
-
� Like what if Australia became a world power, and they had to save India. At the start of the game, Japan would occupy India to Egypt?
-
Say Russia was now against the allies, as well as China, and Australia and Japan were now allies, and Germany wasn’t in the picture or Italy.
A map like that could give you numerous games to create. It would also put minor country roundels and markers to good use.
You also would need sheets of numbers between 0 -10, like the aircraft tokens, but cheap enough where, you can change every territory on a Global 39 or 40 map. There are almost 300 territories on the Global 39 map, so it would need to be cheap enough to buy that many numbered sheets, so that you will have plenty to customize your map and game, for that matter.
It just was an idea, I’ve had for a month now, but since you went ahead and brought up the blank map idea, I thought I would share what I was thinking, as well.
Great idea, buddy! :-D
-
-
That may be a mistake on my part. I did NOT wash my pieces first. I just went straight to painting.
It probably will not end up being catastrophic, but it is beneficial to wash your pieces before painting; removes excess oils from the molding process and surface contaminants that might otherwise be problematic for the integrity of the paint and its ability to adhere.
It seems you are having problems with the softer plastic infantry pieces. As Hoffman said, wash the mold release and finger grease off your pieces or any paint with be more likely to slough off because the grease and mold release act to prevent sticking. Soft infantry pieces are the conundrum since soft plastic is just that…Soft. Paint, when dry is not flexible and will break after a certain amount of flex. Some techniques used for gaming pieces require multiple base coats and even white glue to help stiffen the soft plastic before even painting. The nature of the material make them poor painting canvases and the only recourse is to use hard plastic to get rid of the flex. Sorry but you will always get chipping on paint from the infantry figures. I am actually replacing my own with hard plastic 1/100 scale Plastic Soldier Company pieces which are smaller than the standard 1/76-1/72 infantry that is in the games. The smaller size helps with the visuals in my opinion and brings the scales to a more even keel. The fact that those pieces are hard plastic also will keep paint maintenance less frequent. The only problem is that PSC only has Russian, German, British and American figures at the moment but they are in both 1/100 and 1/72 scale and multi-posed as well with ~100 figures per pack.
-
I am actually replacing my own with hard plastic 1/100 scale Plastic Soldier Company pieces which are smaller than the standard 1/76-1/72 infantry that is in the games. The smaller size helps with the visuals in my opinion and brings the scales to a more even keel. The fact that those pieces are hard plastic also will keep paint maintenance less frequent. The only problem is that PSC only has Russian, German, British and American figures at the moment but they are in both 1/100 and 1/72 scale and multi-posed as well with ~100 figures per pack.
Plastic Soldier Company… will have to look into that. Thanks Wil.
-
Coach, what is the difference in the Boxed version of Midway versus the one available now?
The boxed game will have a very similar map. Shrunk down a bit for publishing purposes. Probably touched up a bit by a professional. All of the sculpts for the game will be more or less unique and special. The rules will be completely new. Right now they are an extrapolation of Larry’s Guadalcanal rules. But for us to publish the game, it’s only right that we come up with something unique. The naval rules being developed for the boxed game will carry over to other HBG naval games as well making a game system.
Are you also using a “battle box” for the dice like in Guadalcanal?
No battle box.
-
That may be a mistake on my part. I did NOT wash my pieces first. I just went straight to painting.
@HBG. I believe a really good item you gents could sell would be a vinyl map but with very minimal details except for borders, names and sea zones. You could even call it a “House Rules/Customizer Map” maybe even package it with markers and tokens.
I would like one with no values, so you can have a lot of “what if?” scenarios. That way you can put the value of a territory for your home games, yourself?
What if there were major factories in Brazil, Spain, Egypt, Iran or China?
What if Iceland, the Azores, Malta, Crete, Madagascar, Fiji and the Caroline Islands were even more valuable and they developed secret major factories?
Just some thoughts!
You can have a lot of crazy scenarios. :-D
What an interesting idea. Now Eastern USA is worth 2 IPCs and Johnston Island is worth 10 IPCs.
Although, with a map like this, you could create all new alliances and major powers. Perhaps some sort of South American federation or African kingdom.
I’m person that thinks outside the box.
-
� Like what if Australia became a world power, and they had to save India. At the start of the game, Japan would occupy India to Egypt?
-
Say Russia was now against the allies, as well as China, and Australia and Japan were now allies, and Germany wasn’t in the picture or Italy.
A map like that could give you numerous games to create. It would also put minor country roundels and markers to good use.
You also would need sheets of numbers between 0 -10, like the aircraft tokens, but cheap enough where, you can change every territory on a Global 39 or 40 map. There are almost 300 territories on the Global 39 map, so it would need to be cheap enough to buy that many numbered sheets, so that you will have plenty to customize your map and game, for that matter.
It just was an idea, I’ve had for a month now, but since you went ahead and brought up the blank map idea, I thought I would share what I was thinking, as well.
Great idea, buddy! :-D
Thanks John. I was thinking along the same lines when I posted. I think it would be fun to have a versatile map so it could be used for any number of scenarios or variants without have to use a specific setting.
-
-
That may be a mistake on my part. I did NOT wash my pieces first. I just went straight to painting.
@HBG. I believe a really good item you gents could sell would be a vinyl map but with very minimal details except for borders, names and sea zones. You could even call it a “House Rules/Customizer Map” maybe even package it with markers and tokens.
I would like one with no values, so you can have a lot of “what if?” scenarios. That way you can put the value of a territory for your home games, yourself?
What if there were major factories in Brazil, Spain, Egypt, Iran or China?
What if Iceland, the Azores, Malta, Crete, Madagascar, Fiji and the Caroline Islands were even more valuable and they developed secret major factories?
Just some thoughts!
You can have a lot of crazy scenarios. :-D
What an interesting idea. Now Eastern USA is worth 2 IPCs and Johnston Island is worth 10 IPCs.
Although, with a map like this, you could create all new alliances and major powers. Perhaps some sort of South American federation or African kingdom.
I’m person that thinks outside the box.
-
� Like what if Australia became a world power, and they had to save India. At the start of the game, Japan would occupy India to Egypt?
-
Say Russia was now against the allies, as well as China, and Australia and Japan were now allies, and Germany wasn’t in the picture or Italy.
A map like that could give you numerous games to create. It would also put minor country roundels and markers to good use.
You also would need sheets of numbers between 0 -10, like the aircraft tokens, but cheap enough where, you can change every territory on a Global 39 or 40 map. There are almost 300 territories on the Global 39 map, so it would need to be cheap enough to buy that many numbered sheets, so that you will have plenty to customize your map and game, for that matter.
It just was an idea, I’ve had for a month now, but since you went ahead and brought up the blank map idea, I thought I would share what I was thinking, as well.
Great idea, buddy! :-D
Thanks John. I was thinking along the same lines when I posted. I think it would be fun to have a versatile map so it could be used for any number of scenarios or variants without have to use a specific setting.
No problem. I think it would be awesome if HBG could do a map like this. :-D
-
-
@CWO:
I’ve just noticed that HBG’s battle pieces index page has been given an improved look.�� In addition to the three traditional “In Production” / “Design Stage” / “Wish List” category pictures, it now also shows 12 national roundels which can be clicked to bring you to a particular national subcategory.��Â
http://www.historicalboardgaming.com/Battle-Pieces_c_14.html
everytime I check out HBG i check out the wish list section and :( there’s never anything there
What would like to wish for?
First $1 million in unmarked bills… a 1967 shelby mustang (Ellenor)… I have the hot blonde so moving away from that… oh and to be a rock star (insert song here)
Seeing as I doubt I’ll get those. How about a little grey capital markers, kick ass little Kermlin and Riechstag. A UK set with a two engine bomber, a US set with the long tom artillery, French pieces that are well French, a KV-1 piece, oh and can you guys offer a Neutral set that has 12 white inf., 4 ivory inf., 3 little grey inf. and 4 orange inf. and finally a ANZAC set. After all that and my head stops spinning from all the cool little army men I have time to think of what’s missing from there.
oh and a machine with the abilitie to fast forward and rewind time.
or am I asking to much?
In the year and a half since my post you guys have done awesome filling my wish list.
Check: UK set with 2 engine bomber, ANZAC setPlanning to be checked: US set with long tom artillery, French pieces that are French
Not checked: little capital markers (still want them), Neutral set (don’t want it anymore because I just bought them separately), KV-1 (where’s my KV-1 and don’t tell me I’ll shot my eye out)
Above and beyond: This is the stuff I didn’t either know I wanted until you guys said it was going to be made. Catalina Flying Boat, Everything in the UK set, Panzer IV, everything in the new USA set, Sea planes.
Being a consumer that apparently is never satisfied I’m already working on a new wish list if you want to hear it.
All in all good job guys
-
Hey Yavid,
There is going to be a KV-1 in that new Kursk game they are working on. -
I just ordered some Russians and the new Allied Supplement white and orange units. I would like to implement the yellow-green neutrals as Nationalist Chinese so I bought another set of those.
As for the pre-orders, I may be moving soon and I’m still impatiently waiting for my Japanese units so in combination of fearing that I’m spending too much I’m holding off on the UK set. These ones I cannot wait to get.
-
Hey HBG do you guys know when the 2nd Japanese pre-orders will be ready to be shipped?
Suggested Topics
