Oil


  • 2018 2017 '16 '11 Moderator

    What’s better, actual oil, or Mobile 1 for your car?  Why?  Got sources?

    My new Toyota’s due for her first oil change tomorrow. (I’ll break past the first 3000 miles…)

    Now, my corporate trucks always got Mobile 1 cause we could go 5000 miles on them, meant I wasn’t getting oil changes on a weekly basis.  But I don’t know if it was better, worse or no different on my engines!



  • Advantages

    The industry recognizes the following benefits for synthetic motor oils:

    * Improved viscosity at low temperatures. Mineral oils tend to include wax impurities which coagulate at lower temperatures. A typical 10W-30 oil remains liquid at -50 °C (-58 °F)
        * Better high temperature performance. Synthetic oils have few low molecular weight hydrocarbons which evaporate at high temperatures.
        * Higher purity
        * Decreased oil consumption
        * Reduced friction and engine wear
        * Improved fuel consumption through better engine lubrication
        * Resistance to oil sludge problems
        * Crude oil doesn’t have to be used for the production of the lubricants
        * Some synthetic motor oil producers offer extended intervals between oil changes (extended drain intervals)
        * Reduction of environmental impact (due to lower oil consumption)

    Disadvantages

    The primary disadvantage of synthetic oils is that they cost significantly more than mineral oils. Some manufacturers of synthetic oils, such as Amsoil and Mobil1, however offer extended drain intervals which allows for running the oil by over 7 times the length of conventional petroleum oils. This extended drain interval actually causes synthetics to be more cost effective over the course of 2 to 3 oil changes. However, with the recent rise in the price of petroleum the gap between the cost of a typical liter of petroleum motor oil and the typical liter of synthetic is almost negligible.

    Anecdotally, synthetic oils can cause problems with older seals which are prone to leakage. As long as the vehicle or equipment in question is in sound mechanical condition then using synthetic oils should not be an issue.


  • 2017 '16 '15 Organizer '14 Customizer '13 '12 '11 '10

    Just never use “reformulated oil” thats the worst excuse for oil around. They take old used up oil and try to repurify it . NEVER BUY PENZOIL EVER… EVER that will ruin your car. Its the worst quality possible. Synthetic is best but its hard on emergencies when you need oil and nobody has any synthetic. THe rule of thumb is: if your car is older or you use oil, or you allow others to borrow the car its bast to use normal oil. because if they mix the oil your car is toast. If you own a new car you gotta use synthetic allways as long as nobody uses the car and you are the guy who is adding the oil.


  • 2018 2017 '16 '11 Moderator

    So what I’m getting is that synthetics for brand new cars is better but it’s more expensive?  Or am I miss understanding what you said?

    And what’s wrong with mixing the oils?  (Sorry, but to me oil was always oil….I’m not privvy to the intracacies of car mechanics…the key goes into the ignition, the car goes vroom, I get to my destination, I’m happy. 🙂  )



  • They are 2 different materials, and do not mix well.  You end up with varying flow and coverage, as well as contaminants from the blending that your filter will not take out.

    And Synthetics are not THAT much more expensive.  I just did a full syntheic change on my car last weekend… $60.  Same place wanted $35 for regular oil.  Regular oil is good for about 3000 miles.  With synthetic, I can go 7500 miles between oil changes.

    So in the long run, synthetic is actually CHEAPER than regular.


  • Official Q&A 2007 AAR League

    The other option is to go with the manufacturer’s recommendation. You do not want to do things that may void any warranty you might have.


  • 2018 2017 '16 '11 Moderator

    @frimmel:

    The other option is to go with the manufacturer’s recommendation. You do not want to do things that may void any warranty you might have.

    Very good point.  I didn’t even think of my warranty!

    Though, it would be nice to only have to get my oil changed at the same time I have to get my tires rotated….and to think, 5 or 6 years ago I didn’t even think it was important to check your oil when you filled your gas tank…I just assumed that if you didn’t see oil leaks under your car in the morning, you’d have plenty in the pan when you drove off. 🙂

    What’s better for extreme colds?  10W-30 or Mobile 1?



  • Mobile 1 is a BRAND of synthetic.  10W-30 is a WEIGHT (actually a multi-weight)

    Check your owners manual for the correct weight of oil for your vehicle.  Sometimes it will recommend a different weight for different seasons, or different types of criving (heavier oils in hotter weather and higher demand driving, lighter oils in colder weather).

    For example, my car calls for either 5W-30 or 10W 30 depending on driving consditions and weather.  I use the lighter of the two (5W-30) to maximize fuel economy.

    Any car built after the mid-90’s can use synthetics.  However, transitioning an older car that has been using regular oil to synthetic CAN cause damage.  A new car, even if originally filled with conventional oil, switched to syntheic is not a problem.  And for modern small high-performance engines with very high heat and conplression, synthetics are generally recommended.

    Also, one final note, you should generally “short change” the first load of oil in a new car (1000 miles).  This will help flush out any manufacturing contaminants (metal shavings, debris, etc.) from the manufacturing process befor ethey can spend 3000-5000 miles scraping the inside of your engine.


  • 2018 2017 '16 '11 Moderator

    I used to do that 2000 mile oil change, but I just forgot about it with this new car.  Probably won’t cause any problems, the thing only has 3014 miles on it, as of today!

    Well, tomorrow I go to Jiffy Lube and get some Mobile 1. 🙂  I refuse to get it done at the dealer.  (For one thing, this particular dealer is known to be crooks and sharletans and I’ve had very bad experiences with them personally when I drove a Toyota Cressida (with the OLD logo) in 95-98.)



  • No problem with Jiffy Lube type places in general…

    HOWEVER… some quick change places replace the oil plug with a quick release plug, usually after stripping the threads of your oil pan.  Be sure to check your oil drain plug BEFORE the oil change and AFTER.  A digital camera pic not a bad idea since it is free 🙂

    And if they strip your oil pan plug threads, MAKE THEM PAY FOR A NEW OIL PAN (from the dealer)


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