MOVED: A&A 2nd Edition IPC (& More) Log Sheet

Sorry if I was not clear enough.
In the case you have explained it can. If Germany has taken any UK territory(Canada or Africa), then the US will collect the income if it retakes it.
As soon as London is liberated, the former UK  territories the US recaptured from the Germans will return to the UK.

If your playing a smart player, who does not “Pearl Harbor” with Japan and uses the Navy to take India which is basically Impossible to stop.  Do not buy Industrial complex turn 1.  Wait and see if the Japan player does “Pearl Harbor” or not if he does then you should be safe but i would wait until turn 2 or 3.  Don’t forget about the 2 infantry and transport in Australia they help defend India very well, Also the transport can move Infantry from Africa to India (after Germany has been removed from Africa).  My favorite UK strategy is to fly fighters from India to Russia “Moscow”. Creates a brick wall of infantry and fighters to setup a long game to use the Allied 3 turn advantage to win.  Its hilarious to watch Germany throw tanks and infantry trying to wear down Russia and the 10+ UK fighters and Russian Infantry  just obliterate them.

@kipster:

The rulebook says that units cannot move into unoccupied hostile territories during the noncombat move phase. Is there any way to conquer an unoccupied hostile territory without blitzing?

Just move an infantry/artillery to the territory during combat move phase.

To me it’s not a bad move if you only send the transports. The Germans will destroy them but you now have US ground units in the race for Africa.

That’s usually the way I play it. Especially if Germany is successful in Egypt. And like Hobbes said, if Germany decides to go after the US troops you’ve taken a turn away from it’s attack on Russia or the UK Navy.

Besides, it’s about the only thing the U.S. can do turn one. I’ve been teaching a couple guys how to play and it’s tough to tell the US players, who has waited almost an hour for his turn, to just make some buys with a plane movement thrown in there and wait another hour before it can do anything else (and there might not be much turn two either).

Ok, I’ve made a minor update so that the color matches the controlling country. This works well in Excel 2010. I’ve not tested it in other versions. https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/99318978/Axis_and_Allies_Excel_Spreadsheet.xlsx

I’ve also uploaded my unit purchase tool. This is good for those that have trouble formulating their purchases. It works well on my iPhone, but I have no idea if it works on other platforms. Note: First enter the available IPC and Industrial Capacity, and then use the plus and minus buttons for making purchases. https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/99318978/Axis_and_Allies_Purchase_Tool%204.html

Edit: I’ve created an iOS Numbers version of the unit purchase tool. You’ll need iOS and Number to use it, and it isn’t quite as fancy as the html version above, but the interface is a little cleaner.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/99318978/Axis_and_Allies_Purchase_Tool_iOS.numbers.zip

I prefer a 6 inf, 2 arm, 1 bomber or 3 inf, 1 art, 3 arm, 1 bomber. The added punch to the Luftwaffe can be really helpful in preventing the UK from doing any landings on UK1.
Usually the Algeria landing is prevented until US1 or UK2, which gives the Germans 1 more round to bring troops to Africa (if Russia hasn’t bought a sub on R1, that is). And if you manage to sink the UK fleet on G2 then you won’t have to worry much from the UK/US for the next turns. If the UK buys 1 AC and 2 DDs, then they’ll have those plus 2 fighters and the US cruiser for defense, possibly also the R sub, depending on how that battle went. You’ll have 2 subs, 2 fighters and 2 bombers, if the 3rd sub survived the battle up SZ1 (by losing the fighter instead of the sub, for instance) then it is possible to sink all Allied ships.

@scampb:

@allboxcars:

What marketing moron ever invented this disloyal & stupid business strategy?

The marketing moron’s that know in order to get any new fans they have to offer a reasonably priced game that someone will buy.  If you had no experience at all with this game but was just out with the family/friends to purchase a new game to play would you buy the $100 anniversary edition of a war game?  Probably not.  Would you buy a $35 dollar version of a war game?  Yeah, probably.  And if you liked it enough you just might spend more money to buy some other versions too.  Yeah, those marketing morons have no idea what they are doing, LOL  :roll:

They are marketing morons. Actually I will just call them morons because there is absolutely no marketing what so ever. The only way you could possibly find out about Axis and Allies is if you walk into a hobby shop and see it or through web sites like this. In the right hands this game could be so much bigger than it is so you can stop rolling on the floor. And by the way, I know this isnt true for all areas but in my neck of the woods Axis and Allies Revised sold for 40 bucks, so that fictional family you talk about that buys this new piece of crap for 35 will soon find out how screwed they got if they end up likeing the game.