I was curious about how and when exactly this works. The same for carpet bombing. Would this happen before combat movement or would it happen simultaneously? For example is the attrition attack/carpet bombing done first and then the combat movement is made or does one have to make all their combat moves including these special type of attacks at the same time. What if a player intends to combat move units into a land zone but also wants to conduct an attrition attack or carpet bombing on the units in the land zone? Couldn’t find anything in the rules to clarify. Any info or help would be appreciated, thanks.
@JustLuthor Cruisers come with A&A 1914, so you don’t need to find more (it’s destroyers that the 1914 fleets lack, but that’s a different story).
HBG sells cavalry units, but they come in the G40 colors as they are meant for GW '36. You could buy a bunch in white and paint or dye them, though.
If you were interested in destroyers for a WWI game, HBG also sells torpedo boat destroyers (essentially, obsolete destroyers from WWI) for GW '36, with the same drawbacks as the cavalry from HBG.
As for bomber units, the best I know to find some would be to find some on Shapeways. The HBG store there has a variety of WWI bomber designs. The drawbacks there are that buying 3d printed units can become quite pricey and they are not usually available in the color you might want, so more dying or painting for you.
My 2 IPCs, anyways.
General Hand Grenade,
I really appreciate your You Tube videos. Global War 36 can seem intimidating to those of us who don’t have the time to thoroughly research it. I barely have time for a couple of G40 games a year. It’s very helpful to learn from your mistakes and it’s refreshing to see you so upfront about those. Please keep up the fantastic work.
Your videos also helped in my education of GW36. I look forward to more content from your channel.
I have been slowly building up to play GW36, and recently finally got a map from HBG. Both of you will be responsible for starting with a greater understanding of the game and will have saved countless hours of my time having to figure it out.
I enjoyed the “Battle in the Bush”.
Just wanted to say thanks.
Thank you for all the interest. Much appreciated.
Just got a new computer, last one pooped the bed in the middle of map making.
I am working on new refurbished version of this game.
I am excited at this opportunity to give this version a face lift and a make over with emphasis on keeping the game streamlined and not overly and unnecessarily complex in nature while adding new elements to the game.
After getting some actual experience at other A+A varients out there, I have been introduced to alot of good and bad ideas.
But these varients all have one thing in common. They are all overly complex with much of it unnecessary and only achieves adding unwanted extra time to play. I am a firm believer in the Keep it simple stupid (KISS) method.
With that said, stay tuned for updates.
A d12 system will be used.
Game start date will be 1939 before polish invasion and politics will be a part of the game. In fact politics and the political landscape will play a huge role in how each game unfolds. My intent is that no 2 games played will be the same.
Technology will also play a major part for all the powers and may also influence the political landscape of each game.
I envision a gaming experience in which the players control the fate of their respective nations, and not necessarily follow the traditional and historical paths used by previous games or history.
The basic game mechanics will not change much, but the players freedom of choice of actions will.
I based off what they pretty much had at peak of war. I didn’t do the 1 piece equals so many. I just made it like Uk 6 BB and spread them out. US I had 7 BB but reduced it to 5. 4 damaged in Hawaii at start of game. If it had like real 4 light cruisers and 2 h cruisers I just made that 2 normal cruisers and 2 more normal cruisers. To eliminate the 3 diff pieces. Everything else straight up with tweaks to setup as we played the game.
Yes the eastern front setup is more like spring of 41 than dec. 41 like pac is. based on the game balance and timing to work
Out. As u see the battle of the Atlantic is at its peak too. More like dec 41 there. Only issue in most games if not all is the d day invasions. Most happen before June of 44 in all games but to get correct US wouldn’t attack Europe until turn 7 or 8 with torch happening sooner
That would be a major setup change and year of turns.
I have my own map for game too.
Couldn’t find and accordion folders that were big enough. What I came up with are poster boxes. Picked one up at the UPS store. I can fit all the charts inside, it keeps them I good condition, and it stores well.
I’ve recently started an Axis and Allies Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCrfRheLI6m18D2aVcPpx4Fg
I’ve done solo games and ones with friends in-person and over YouTube Wars.
I’ve found plenty of people to play the standard line up of A&A games online, the only game I’ve struggled to find people to play is Historical Board Gaming’s Global War 1939. I would love to play with anyone and test out different ideas and strategies.
@Credulous Wow. You know, I definitely forgot that the V3 reference sheets have the ships on a separate page. So I was comparing the V2 sheet to the V3 page that had all units EXCEPT naval on them haha. My mistake, thanks for pointing that out.
Now that I’ve actually paid attention to the differences, I definitely agree with you. Cruisers are much more appealing, and allow smaller nations a bigger punch that they may not have had otherwise.
Great point on battleships, The cost difference may otherwise have been worth it, but yeah, if you already have slower ships in your fleet, there’s no reason to pay more for one that can’t move as quickly anyways!
@Caesar-Seriona You’re probably right haha. But I feel like there’s no way the designers meant for that to trigger war. I won’t inundate with yet another “official” clarification question, as I feel I do that a lot already, but I’m with you, I’d play that Lithuania doesn’t trigger that ability!
@SS-GEN That’s awesome, not sure I’ve seen your war room before! We’d love to have it eventually!
My dad has been living with my grandma for a while now (partly because of his divorce, and also to help grandma around the house). So we play there on the dining room table. My dad’s dream is to eventually get his own place again and convert any spare bedroom to an awesome war room and get a sweet custom made table. Would love to do all that myself too, but house is probably too small and wife would probably murder me!
Love your setup there. I always envision damn near the same thing!
Vichy is a must in my opinion, even if you get the worse case situation and get nothing. Southern France being Vichy blocks Italy from being conquered through France. This is a good reason why you may not want to take Switzerland as the Axis.
Yes to all your questions.
When Germany activates Finland (3 icps), Hungary (3 icps), Bulgaria (4 icps) and Romania (6 icps) Germany adds these amounts (16 icps) to there income total. Also each one of these pro-axis neutrals collects the same amount for there own income.
The pro-axis minors can buy each turn and place in there territories only. Finland only in Capital.
I actually had different colors for all pro neutrals in game. With Pro-axis neutrals for thee above 4 with different color armies you can see what the Germans are buying and not getting confused if you make them all German looking pieces. Keeps the buyer honest or others can see the buy.
The buy most times in game per turn is Finland 1 Inf, Hungary 1 Inf, Bulgaria 1 Art, and Romania 1 Tank or sometimes 2 Inf.
Germany also likes to buy a Major factory in Romania to get a bunch of Inf for fodder quicker to the front or Mechs, Art for blitzing or a stack of tanks to run down to Leningrad or push into Stalingrad or a naval base in Romania and if Russia income allows them to go to war against Germany turn 4.
Is there someone who got a nice way to add ipc bonus in the game like in a&a for each nation
If someone did can you share how you did ? I kinda liked the ipc bonus on the a&a normal games , this global one has a lot less of those if any most of the time
@Munck said in New idea: Revolution:
Yes. This sub-forum is about a different game.
HBG’s Global War
This forum is not only for HBG global war. There’s other global games listed here.
Yes if it is a global 40 question then you would get a better answer to your topic in the Global 40 thread. Just a bit confusing
Looking forward to seeing how you blend the 2 rule sets. Last g40 game we played my group was disappointed by some missing unit types but happy with the faster builds for factory and naval units. Tech in g40 is so broken we never got a guy willing to use it. Gw36 tech is always in play. Good luck its looking good!
All scenarios from July 1945 should apply these partisan rules, they are a critical component to the time period. During each player’s Collect Income and Place Units phase that player may make a partisan generation roll for each territory that was captured (and remains captured) while under their Possession/Control.
Communist Freedom Fighters: Communist Partisans outside the USSR or CCP home country may be converted to Infantry and declare war against the minor, providing income to the major nation if successful. They may also be attacked by any major western power even if the major power is not at war with the USSR or CCP.
Any idea when in 2019 one can one expect the new version of the map from HBG with the air/naval bases printed on the map?
Maybe! Hopefully? :roll: I know HBG posted their video talking about printing starting setup bases on the map, but as you can see they are definitively not shipping them yet.
@SS-GEN said in The new forum has been a lot of work and it's not done yet:
I know it’s getting better but I posted a reply for my game report in house rules and with the changes the stuff just gets buried. Somebody post another tread reply and such now you have to go threw every topic to find it. Just sayin.
If I’m understanding correctly, there’s no difference between the old forum and the new forum for this situation. If you post a topic, and a bunch of folks post different topics, your topic will eventually end up on another page unless somebody replies. On forums, “stuff gets buried” all the time.
Also, you absolutely do not have to go through every topic to find your topic. This has come up multiple times, there are tips and tricks that cover this, I added helpers in the navigation bar. Not to be harsh but I’m just not sure what else we’re supposed to do.
Here’s a recap of your options:
Notifications: there is a bell near your avatar on the toolbar. When somebody replies, there will be a red number. Click that and you’ll get all of your notifications.
Replies to your Posts: I literally added this to the toolbar because people were complaining about finding their stuff. It’s the double-left arrow in the nav bar. It’s literally the same as clicking Notifications followed by “See all Notifications”
Recent Topics: Click the clock in the nav bar. Where it says “All Topics” select “Watched Topics” instead. You can even select a category to further narrow it down.
Recent Watched Topics: Click the eye in the nav bar. That will give you “recent” watched topics, including any topic you made or any topic you replied to. (I think I’ll change this to the next one)
All of Your Watched Topics: Go to your profile. Click the 3 dots. Click Watched.
Your Topics: Go to your profile. Click the 3 dots. Click Topics.
Bookmarks: If a particular topic is super important, then click the three dots on a topic, the one next to Reply, Quite, <heart>, < 3 dots> and click Bookmark. To find your bookmarks: Go to your profile. Click the 3 dots. Click Bookmarks.
That 6 ways to find your stuff. The old forums had a stupid icon that was hard to see and made no sense, I think it was a face or something. The replies to your posts was nice but we have that and more.
Note: there’s a bug with your watched topics if you have infinite scrolling turned on. I’ll file it later.
to @djensen @Panther @redrum . You all have put a lot of work into the transition. @simon33 has been helpful with his comments as well.
And thank you to everyone else helping out with the change.
It may take a while to get used to the new program, but it’s gonna work just fine : )
@JustLuthor I have the True Neutral Lid done (All true neutrals and mongolia). I’ll work on the other one soon. Let me know if you need the sides of the box too. The colors may not be fully match with out of game box if printed out.
True Neutral Box
@Imperious-Leader said in Axis & Brollies : Action Cards and Event Cards:
you should set it up with card decks made at “Artscow” or something like it in terms of name. They are sold as long as you set up account and you will earn a bit of change
www.makeplayingcards.com was recently (2019) used successfully by siredblood to produce his “Blood Bath” A&A version card deck - at a resulting fair price for consumers
drivethrucards.com was recently (2018) used successfully by Young Grasshopper to produce his co-deck “Omaha” and “Utah” cards for A&A G’40 - at an absolute steal of a deal for consumers
If you have not already done so, please consider selling your deck(s) at either or both sites - I would love to see you get paid for your work.
Since I had the U.S. naval colors out, I pushed through with the Lexington rebuild.
Here’s the previous look.
Reused everything but the rear structure, boosting the fwd. island about 1.5mm. Rear section fabricated with styrene stock.
Think I might have gone a little to big? Still 100% better. That’s what I get for trying to use the rear of a classic tank turret the first time.
Stay safe all.