Perhaps you can get a start there.
My username is Midnight_Reaper. This came from the tag line of a series of emails I wrote at work in 2006, where I described myself as the Midnight Reaper what Reaps at Midnight. Those were some slow shifts, let me tell you… Later that year, I found the Gaming Motivator list on RPGNet forums. I needed a username to register on the site, so I grabbed Midnight_Reaper. I haven't logged into RPGNet forums in over a decade, so don't look for me there. But my use of that username there led me to pick that name when I went to register here. And now you know.
If units will not be engaged in combat after the end of combat movement, than those units are not allowed to move. Only movements that result in combat are allowed to occur during combat movement.
If you want to move a unit without combat, then you can move that unit during non-combat movement, after the combat phase is done.
If you attack an enemy territory with a tank and an infantry, then those units must remain in that attacked territory. The only way to keep the infantry back would be to not commit that unit to combat in the first place.
There is an A&A game with similar rules. Axis & Allies Europe (the original one, not the Europe 1940 games) gave Germany 12 IPCs at the very beginning of the game, to spend as Germany saw fit. Then the Allied powers were given 12 IPCs to spend as the Allies saw fit. Then the rest of the game commenced.
So, I would guess you are suggested something like that for G40, with an Allied bid to go on top of the extra Allied money. If I were to do something like that, I would have the Allies go first, then the Axis, then the Allied bid. It would make for a wild setup, that’s for sure.
@Midnight_Reaper Since the game can’t know if the ART is located in the same area as INF (and if you’re going to use it with INF), it doesn’t increase the value for this particular purpose.
Do please kindly explain this. Either the game knows that an Arty will be attacking with an Inf before the assault begins (before dice are rolled) or there is a serious problem with this implementation…
@General_Mikulski It uses the overall attack value. Say, you have 8 infantry, 2 artillery, 1 tank and 1 fighter. It gives you 1 * 8+2 * 2+3 * 1+3 * 1 attack power = 18.
In an attack, wouldn’t the 2 arty increase the attack value of 2 infantry from 1 to 2, resulting in (1 * 6) + (2 * 2) + (2 * 2) + (3 * 1) + (3 * 1) = 20 attack power?
You get to spend all of your starting money at the start of your first turn. At the end of your first turn you get the IPC value of all of the territories you control (plus the value of every National Objective met). That money from the end of your first turn will be your starting money at the start of your second turn. Continue until game ends.
Unless I can find blanks, cheaper than regular D12s, I’ll probably just put dots over the numbers, and use colored dice to add to the ease of identification.
That works, too. You do you!
You would still pick through dice looking for the number to hit number. I’ve played with colored hit dies. For me looking for a color die is easier. Oh black 1, green 2, blue 3, red 4, white 5 but just me.
You could do a variation on that, which would simplify the whole operation: black for hits, color dots on the misses for what number. Say “3 hit” dice with 3 black dots and 9 blue dots, “5 hit” dice with 5 black dots and 7 orange dots. You use a chart to correlate your hit numbers with the colors or you could write the number on all 12 sides. If all sides have ink, then none of the sides are off due to ink. Something like “4 hit” dice with 4 black dots, 8 pink dots, and a “4” written on all 12 sides.
Yet another 2 IPCs,
To add to the esteemed SS Gen had to say - stickers. Stickers and clear coat sealant. Take those blank dice that SS Gen showed us. Get some dot stickers (I will give an example below) in three colors of your choice. Color one, hits. Color two, misses. Color three, one per die. Use your color three dots to label how many hits on the die (1 or 3 or 7). I would use black for hits, white for misses, and red for the identification dot. So, a “4 hit” die would have 12 sides, with 4 color ones, 7 color twos, and one color three with a “4” printed on it.
The clear coat? After dots are applied and the color three dots are labeled, evenly coat the dice and dots with sealant to keep them together and stain-free.
Another 2 IPCs,