You are correct about that Persian air distance, my mistake. I had been looking at the Caucasus routing not realizing that the Caspian Sea-Kazakhstan route cut off a space. That saves half a turn’s worth of UK income.
That last game I had hopped an Africa fighter over and shuffled a mech in, but didn’t do a fighter build in the Persia IC because of the miscount. I had tried “overworking” the German air and main thrust by pincering two infantry forces through Bessarabia and Baltic States, and a Brit landing in Norway under cover of the surviving half of the Home Fleet (SZ 106 transport had survived G1 but went to Britain because I wanted to force Germany to buy defensive forces.) However, I found I still had enough German air plus late arriving mech/tanks along with a portion of the spearhead infantry to handle these, take Western Ukraine, retake Norway, while still continuing the spearhead to Belarus next to the main Soviet stack with mech/tanks, etc. in Bryansk. And the Scandinavian infantry took Leningrad/Novgorod.
R3 counterattack odds were very poor for Russia and were going to leave a tank stack that would still have enough mech/tanks reaching it the next turn to be unstoppable. So the retreat to Moscow was made on R3.
On G4 I strat bombed Moscow’s IC with three bombers. I decided not to scramble the two Russian fighters for this as I needed their defense as badly as the IPC’s. I figured the ~50% chance of losing one of two fighters outweighed the lower chance of clipping a bomber at ~33%. The IC’s AAA missed and the bombers inflicted enough damage that I had to spend several infantry’s worth to repair for a final infantry build there on R4, which was mostly a waste as calcs showed it would not hold even with some UK help. But I stayed and was bludgeoned. German tanks reached the Caucasus on G6 and would have been unstoppable. US landing and Brit round 5 stacks/w UK fighters reinforcing in Normandy were crushed on the counterattack that turn. It would have been much better to do a fighting withdrawal toward Persia, maintaining a threat to keep German support forces in theater, rather than be unceremoniously swept away.
Bonjour à tous voici les règles d’Axis & Alliés Pacifique 1940 2ème édition en français
Hello everyone here are the rules of Axis & Allies Pacific 1940 2nd edition in French
trulpen’s G2 DOW heading for Moscow [OOB G40 2nd]
This opening is an inspiration from COW. Instead of G1 though, it’s a way for Germany to primarily aim for a G2 DOW against Russia. Saving the battleship is nice, but more of a parenthesis here. There is significant strategic gain with a G2 DOW instead of G3, but Germany needs a solid plan to execute. This route focuses on going directly for Moscow, getting other key sites like Leningrad and Ukraine on the way only if it doesn’t disturb the main goal.
Purchase (30 IPC)
Ger: 3 mech, 3 tank - 30
1 sub sz103, 1 sub sz108, 1 fig Holland, 2 fig, 2 tac W Ger, 1 tac Ger, 2 sb Ger -> sz110 -> 3 fig, 3 tac Holland, 2 sb W Ger
1 sub sz118, 1 sub sz124, 1 bs sz113, 1 fig Norway, 1 tac W Ger -> strafe sz111 -> W Ger
4 inf, 2 art, 3 tank Holland, 3 tank S Ger, 3 inf, 1 art, 4 mech W Ger -> France -> S Italy
6 inf, 2 art S Ger, 1 inf Romania, 1 fig Slovakia, 1 tac Poland -> strafe Yugoslavia -> Romania, 1 fig Tobruk, 1 tac S Italy
1 sub sz117 -> sz124
1 cr, 1 tr sz114 -> sz112
3 aa W Ger -> Holland
2 inf Denmark -> W Ger
3 inf Norway -> Finland +4 inf
11 inf, 3 art, 3 aaa Ger -> Poland
2 inf Slovakia -> Poland
1 tank Slovakia -> Romania
1 tank Romania -> Bulgaria +4 inf
Now Germany is optimally set for stacking in E Poland on G2. If possible, do also enter Bessarabia to pressure Ukraine, but holding E Poland is more important.
Enter in the North by Leningrad as well as Russia then gets pressure on all fronts. If they move in to save Leningrad or such (oh yes, it’s a trap!), all the better since those units won’t make it back to Moscow in time.
No need to bomb Leningrad, since anything built there in R2 will be useless or suboptimal. Maybe bomb Ukraine, but likely the Russians will retreat from there anyway. Risking a sb and then having to repair the mIC might simply be counter-productive.
The G2-buy of 66 IPC is simply 3 mech and 7 tank in Germany and 1 sb in W Germany.
On G3 buy 1 fig, 1 tac and 2 sb in W Germany.
Continue the invasion by stacking in W Ukraine. Grab Leningrad and Ukraine if possible, but do not deviate resources that are aimed for Moscow.
On G4 simply buy 4 sb in W Ger and 3 tank in Ukraine. If the latter is not available for building, then just 1 or 2 more sb’s.
Bomb the hell out of Moscow with 4-5 sb and stack everything in Bryansk, including all available air.
Italy should’ve set up on its I2 to have 2 tank and all air in E Poland in order to do an essential can-opener of Bryansk in I3, maybe also buying a sb in I2.
In G5 there will be the glorious battle of Moscow. This should favour Germany with +20 inf, 5 art, 10 mech, 19-22 tanks and a heap of Luftwaffe even if Russia has defensively turtled.
Lets say Russia has built only inf and has about 65 of them in Moscow. It’s still a +90 % battle for Germany, although likely most land units will be gone.
Every time i play with axis… i realize i am too slow … even if i won the last game after the 15 round and against a very good player … but i realize i am too slow reading this discussion … I will try this strategy combined with an attack on the second round of the Germans …
@CHILDREN Thanks for designing and sharing these setup charts. I wonder if you have them in a white background. The black background consumes too much of my black ink. Or, would you know other alternative setup charts with a lighter background? Many thanks.
Japan cant utilize DEI, and ANZAC gets that income for a long time, which leads to a ridiculous amount of fighters, subs, or whatever they want to focus on.
Also, In the case that this happens, apply pressure with the russian troops in north, get china manchuria, and yourself korea (6 IPCs in OOB).
Here is the Taamvann mod
Option taamvan Changes the control of Novgorod, Volgograd, Russia Objective to 3 PUs for Germany. Control of Caucasus is also reduced to 3. Also adds a Fighter to Russia and a Armor to Urals.
taamvan is an experienced player and has had good luck using the above.
It has the advantage of small changes compared to BM, which has a lot but is very popular with experienced players.
@General-Hicks said in Second stand in france:
so hypothetically if the germans have a very poor turn one and lose lots of ground units in the capture of Paris and even maybe lose a plane or two in wiping out the British navy. has anyone tried to support the remaining french units in normandy, you could stack 3-4 allied fighters and move 2-4 land units into normandy aswell. so i am just wondering if this scenario has ever happened to someone or just your overall thoughts on the idea
I’ve consider it before but have not applied the move in a game. I played a 1936 Global War game where I stacked Paris with eight to ten AA guns to discourage German planes from tipping the scale of the battle.
Couple of notes:
All the units are British. There is no difference between UK Europe units and UK Pacific units. That is why they move and attack together.
Each UK capital can ONLY collect money from and build on their side of the board territories (Exceptions: West India is Pacific Territory - West Canada is Europe Territory). For example; If India (Calcutta) is taken and West India is taken by the Axis and then UK Europe takes West India back they do not collect for it because it is a Pacific Territory. Other Allies taking West India back could collect for it. Also, if for some reason Borneo is still under British control with India captured UK Europe may not build any infrastructure there because it is a Pacific Territory and Europe money.
@Moller A submarine is a sea unit with an attack value and a defense value. What makes it special are its “Special Abilities”/unit characteristics as described by the rulebook(s) and (partly) outlined by @WindowWasher above.
Surprise Strike (X)
Treat Hostile Sea Zones as Friendly (X)
Doesn’t Block Enemy Movement
Can’t Hit Air Units
Can’t Be Hit by Air Units (X)
An enemy destroyer cancels those unit characteristics marked with an (X).
@Moller said in Battleship/cruiser with destroyer vs submarine:
I tought without a destroyer you can’t detect a submarine so you can’t attacked the submarine.
This is not part of the rules, sorry.
@akreider2 it might give you a certain flexibility you may need or it hinders you to grow with euro Axis.
It depends much likely on how you play Japan.
Fir a J1DoW I personally would not recommend it, since you are boosting the US in no time.
Pretty sure the Calc on this site and the TripleA Calc let you tweak the OOL. I forget how the TripleA one works but the Calc on this site has two text bars below the fields where you input unit quantities. One is for attacker OOL, the other is for defender OOL.
@freh said in Bids for allies - 60???:
Wow, I’ve been away from the game so things must have shifted and strategy must be evovling. I just can’t imagine losing with the opportunity to put $60 worth of allied units before the game starts. Are there any patterns to bids? Does it get concentrated in one nation (defending UK against initial German attacks, or giving Russia some more offensive bite) or is it spread out?
As I said my gaming group in Seattle has gone up to $60. I am not sure that is true for the general community. The placement of the Bid depends on the Player. Sometimes it all goes in Russia, sometimes it all goes to UK Europe. Personally I think that is six of one half a dozen of another. Bid units in Russia protect Moscow so the Allies do not need to help Russia defend their capital. Bid units for UK Europe assist UK in defense of London and in taking out the Italians much faster which allows them to assist Russia either with direct unit intervention for the defense of Moscow or intense pressure on the Atlantic Wall. The end result is basically the same. Either the UK is strong and gets help to Russia fast or the UK is weak and struggles but never has to send help to Russia because Russia is strong. Personally I like a 50-50 balance between UK Europe and Russia. Best of both worlds.
One constant is that normally at least 80% up to all 100% goes on the Europe side of the board versus the Pacific side of the board.
@Panther said in Can submarine go through a contested seazone?:
@AndrewAAGamer said in Can submarine go through a contested seazone?:
While Combat is considered simultaneous Combat Movement is not.
While you answered the scenario correctly, only the quoted sentence is not correct.
Page 12 Pacific 1940.2 rulebook says: “All combat movement is considered to take place at the same time.”
Here the submarines move from seazone A to C at the same time as the rest of the fleet moves from seazone A to B.
Than you Panther for pointing that out. Then perhaps I have been misusing a scenario. I will open a new thread not to hijack this one.
to @djensen @Panther @redrum . You all have put a lot of work into the transition. @simon33 has been helpful with his comments as well.
And thank you to everyone else helping out with the change.
It may take a while to get used to the new program, but it’s gonna work just fine : )
@JustLuthor I have the True Neutral Lid done (All true neutrals and mongolia). I’ll work on the other one soon. Let me know if you need the sides of the box too. The colors may not be fully match with out of game box if printed out.
True Neutral Box
I have been playing around with different configurations for a custom table and wanted to note some things I’ve landed on that I really like. A main one thing is having the map mounted so that it can slide around as needed on top of a bigger playing area. My table is 65” x 95” in total with a 5.5” arm rest around the outside and the middle is a recessed neoprene surface. I have the OOB Global map mounted on 1/2” rigid foam with a 1/2” aluminum frame around it. This allows the map to slide up close to whoever’s turn it is, but then be in the middle so both players can roll dice In front of them without disturbing the map and in easy view of the other player. (Plus we like lots of room to roll the bones). This ability to adjust the surface along with a standing height, makes it comfortable for long uses because you can move around more and don’t feel as tied down.
Things I’ve learned and changed from original design - I originally used too big of a frame for the map and mounted it on too high of a foam block (you can see these pictures at the bottom) - it made it hard to see the other player’s dice and the big frame took up too much real estate. My global map is mounted on much thinner foam (the framing is bad, you can see if you look closely) but I also used much thinner aluminum angle for the frame. This gives just enough grip when needing to move the map around (I use furniture slides on the bottom, which glide very nicely on the neoprene) but doesn’t make the whole thing too bulky. Having it an inch or so off the surface keeps the dice off, but isn’t so heigh that you can’t see the other player’s dice rolls. When playing other versions (such as Zombies) the board is much smaller, but it can easily swap in and out on the same table since it can move around where ever it is needed or be pushed aside.
I originally made it normal table height, but found long reaches while sitting were harder and it just felt cramped. Standing height with a bar stool is a great way to have the best of both worlds.
The 5.5” rim around the table itself gives you a nice arm rest that doesn’t interfere with the gaming surface. I’m playing with how to best add some cushion to this part - open to suggestions. Sometimes I just lay a piece of leftover neoprene on it.
Dice bounce nice on the neoprene and stay off the floor. It also feels nice and has enough give to allow things to slide but be picked up easily. Wouldn’t definitely go with neoprene again as a surface covering.
I made the drawers open to the inside of the table so you can stay hunched over the action while accessing and stowing stuff away. 50/50 on whether I would keep this if I were to do it again. If I were doing it again, I might try to build customer drawers form scratch using actual drawer glides, but that was beyond my ability when I first did this, so I just used clear plexiglass boxes with aluminum pulls mounted on them. It’s nice having them clear, and I was happy with how the pulls came out, but without glides they can be a little fussy sliding in and out of their slots.
I originally designed the table so that I could put a cover surface back on top when not in use, but find I don’t really ever do that, so if I were to do it again, I might not mess with that part (I never even finished staining those as you can see in the pictures).
@SS-GEN said in The new forum has been a lot of work and it's not done yet:
I know it’s getting better but I posted a reply for my game report in house rules and with the changes the stuff just gets buried. Somebody post another tread reply and such now you have to go threw every topic to find it. Just sayin.
If I’m understanding correctly, there’s no difference between the old forum and the new forum for this situation. If you post a topic, and a bunch of folks post different topics, your topic will eventually end up on another page unless somebody replies. On forums, “stuff gets buried” all the time.
Also, you absolutely do not have to go through every topic to find your topic. This has come up multiple times, there are tips and tricks that cover this, I added helpers in the navigation bar. Not to be harsh but I’m just not sure what else we’re supposed to do.
Here’s a recap of your options:
Notifications: there is a bell near your avatar on the toolbar. When somebody replies, there will be a red number. Click that and you’ll get all of your notifications.
Replies to your Posts: I literally added this to the toolbar because people were complaining about finding their stuff. It’s the double-left arrow in the nav bar. It’s literally the same as clicking Notifications followed by “See all Notifications”
Recent Topics: Click the clock in the nav bar. Where it says “All Topics” select “Watched Topics” instead. You can even select a category to further narrow it down.
Recent Watched Topics: Click the eye in the nav bar. That will give you “recent” watched topics, including any topic you made or any topic you replied to. (I think I’ll change this to the next one)
All of Your Watched Topics: Go to your profile. Click the 3 dots. Click Watched.
Your Topics: Go to your profile. Click the 3 dots. Click Topics.
Bookmarks: If a particular topic is super important, then click the three dots on a topic, the one next to Reply, Quite, <heart>, < 3 dots> and click Bookmark. To find your bookmarks: Go to your profile. Click the 3 dots. Click Bookmarks.
That 6 ways to find your stuff. The old forums had a stupid icon that was hard to see and made no sense, I think it was a face or something. The replies to your posts was nice but we have that and more.
Note: there’s a bug with your watched topics if you have infinite scrolling turned on. I’ll file it later.
@Imperious-Leader said in Axis & Brollies : Action Cards and Event Cards:
you should set it up with card decks made at “Artscow” or something like it in terms of name. They are sold as long as you set up account and you will earn a bit of change
www.makeplayingcards.com was recently (2019) used successfully by siredblood to produce his “Blood Bath” A&A version card deck - at a resulting fair price for consumers
drivethrucards.com was recently (2018) used successfully by Young Grasshopper to produce his co-deck “Omaha” and “Utah” cards for A&A G’40 - at an absolute steal of a deal for consumers
If you have not already done so, please consider selling your deck(s) at either or both sites - I would love to see you get paid for your work.