Each unit with a combat value would get one die. One attacking infantry would roll one die(scoring a hit on a “1”) and the defending infantry+artillery rolls 2 dice(scoring a hit for each die showing “1” or “2”). This continues each round until combat is resolved or attacker retreats
@Stough said in Germany playbook: overall strategy guide:
@trulpen Again, I’m new so my ideas are probably wonky. After three test plays, all using a Sea Lion Variant (btw, I only think Sea Lion is good if you want to get Italy into the game. Britain has to respond to it in some measure and that gives Italy a chance), I think a G-1 DOW looks pretty good.
You can nuke 7 Russians and start the border squabbles that attrit Russia, while close to home.
Buy 3Art and 6 inf in round 1, (maybe a destroyer or sub) and then a bunch.
Place a sub in Russias convoy zone on rd 1 and keep occupying that thing to deny Russia the 5ipc’s.
I think your advice to buy a crap ton of wagons (mech) in round 2 is very sound. Followed by a mix of fast movers in rd 3-4 and some bombers.
It seems fairly simple to leverage Russia with a strong push. Use the Luftwaffe to full advantage and get either Nov or Ukraine or both.
I’m not sure nailing Moscow is even necessary. Just push them back, hurt their economy and anaconda them to death, while dealing with US/UK.
Anyhow, lots of big talk from me. I’ll be play testing Germany without a Sea Lion for the next three games. We’ll see what headaches the Brits can bring without a Sea Lion. The US will be spending about 2/3 of their budget on Germany.
BTW. What fighter is sent to Tobruk?
Fig from Slovakia. Going there after hitting Yugo.
I would never support an early Sea Lion, unless something exceptional happened. Early is something like before turn 6.
Conquering Moscow might not be a necessity, but if it can be done it’s a top priority. Getting Russia out of play and all that extra income is worth tons.
@WindowWasher Great advice.
I’m on my 3rd play test; each one using a Sea Lion feint and a J-1.
Ignoring the litany of tactical errors I am making… in my second game I did indeed force Japan to build a Navy, but it didn’t matter. It was a great game though- lasted forever. It ended up with Armageddon in the Oil States- the 3rd battle of Megido with Liepzig thrown in to boot. ( The Axis could have won it earlier but wanted to see what would happen f I retreated with Russia all the way to the ME).
For game three, I tried an iterating Tactic in the Pac. I bought 2 planes a round for the US and flew them down to Queensland. ANZAC played possum bough a few men and a fighter and saved some money. Meanwhile hovering with the 16 Russians in Amur. After Japan took the Money islands in J2, I attacked Korea/Manchuria in R3. Japan devastated those Russians in J3, but it pulled enough of their resources to allow ANZAC to build an airbase in Western Australia and have enough stuff their to hold it AND Queensland. Next turn, there will be 5 more fighters in India.
So those Russians delayed India for a turn and in so doing may have secured it for a long while.
The bad news is that Alexandira has been a disaster for the Allies, so it looks like they will lose anyhow. (the Germans are just rolling like gods in the Sea every game- they are 3 for 3 in taking out SZ 101 and 96; Taranto was a disaster for the UK and the Italians took Alex on I3; I’m waiting for R4 for Germany-Russia to start scrapping.- it’s an interesting game)
Anyhow, my point is, it seems if one can get Jpan to ping pong a bit, you can secure Australia and get a strong force in India to boot, just buying fighters and 2 inf (for Hawaii), and timing the R attack with the Air base in W. Australia.
In other words, I’m starting to learn how important the mobility of an Air Force is. I’m still so used to just buying a crap ton of infantry.
@CHILDREN Thanks for designing and sharing these setup charts. I wonder if you have them in a white background. The black background consumes too much of my black ink. Or, would you know other alternative setup charts with a lighter background? Many thanks.
@Marshmallow-of-War said in ANZAC planes landing in Dutch territories (Java/Sumatra) on same turn they were taken by ANZAC:
@seancb said in ANZAC planes landing in Dutch territories (Java/Sumatra) on same turn they were taken by ANZAC:
I do agree fighters can’t land in newly acquired neutrals due to the fact that existing airbases are probably not up the to standard for anything other than bush planes.
I sincerely doubt that factored into the rule – if the rules were based on realism and historical accuracy, Scapa Floe would be a naval base on the board…
Well most airbases where not much more then grass fields of if that didnt work metal stips.
Planes of that time didnt require much more then a flat firm strip of land devoid of trees. Ofcourse this does not factor in fueling/maintenance that you need facilities for but just takeoff and landing didnt have the requirements our planes have today.
That was 1 of the advantaged of the RAF during WW2, their airbases where hard to destroy because well if you cant take off from 1 field you just take of from the 1 next to it.
But yea realism didnt get factored into the game, you should see it as a game with historical context. Which is good otherwise it would most likely not a fun game to play.
@AndrewAAGamer said in OOB or BM3:
@Marshmallow-of-War said in OOB or BM3:
I stand by my statement – I have never received a 60 IPC bid from you.
LOL - okay if you feel that way. Let’s not hijack this thread. PM me and we can start a game. You can be Axis or Allies at $60.
Sure thing. I’ll email the bid placement.
According to these principles, it is much easier for the axis to achieve victory in a plain Jane game. No bid I mean. Therefore in order to win they must choose lower percentage battles it also means that if you can see yourself falling considerably behind you also must choose to be adventurous!
And that a good amount of time you will fall short!
@AndrewAAGamer said in Global 1940 Rule Question re: scrambling and amphibious assaults:
@Panther said in Global 1940 Rule Question re: scrambling and amphibious assaults:
The American units only watch the scenery, as friendly powers never attack together. As Britain in your scenario is the attacker, the British transports may retreat, if possible.
In this scenario the transports were already in the SZ so they would not be allowed a retreat. However, if they left the SZ and came back in then they could retreat.
Right, that is the way that makes a retreat “possible”.
You can buy a vinyl printout of the board from office max or staples, no idea how it works but I know its been done. Check out the axis and allies Facebook group and ask a question there, someone will definitely get back to you.
@Arthur-Bomber-Harris said in When USA not at War:
@Marshmallow-of-War ANZAC DOW is not always dumb. Sometimes it allows a key ship block or prevents transports in disputed zones from picking up soldiers. I have seen it happen a handful of times.
Completely true! The ANZAC declaration following a UK Pacific ship move is a classic! I can’t imagine anyone taking issue with that.
However, you’re ignoring the second half of that…
It’s taking the Carolines after initiating a war that leaves the US out of the fight that is the issue, leaving the transports vulnerable and stripping defenses from ANZAC itself. I can’t imagine a scenario where that would be wise.
You can find units silhouettes in the Unit Identification Cards I posted here:
Each chart can be expanded in size by clicking on it.
Global 1940 IS the combination of Europe 1940 and Pacific 1940. So, yes, as I previously stated, the first editions and the second editions of the games that make up Axis & Allies 1940 Global have compatible chip types.
I know this because I own both the first editions of Europe 1940 and Pacific 1940 and the second editions of Europe 1940 and Pacific 1940, therefore causing me to own the first and second editions of Axis & Allies Global 1940.
I said, Good Day, Sir.
Might just be easier to actualy bid a specific placement then. As there are no unclear things no misunderstandings. 1 sub from UK on ZS 110 ( for example ) cannot be misunderstood in anyway.
Also allows for more creative and flexible bids you could bid units in spots you dont have them yet or get multiple units in an area as long as your opponent doesnt mind.
As bidding is a house rule and some have different rules then others.
I did find a mistake in my spreadsheet. Thanks for catching it. Note that we also have to look at the chance that the USA sub is left to destroy the transports after the lone Japanese destroyer is sunk. That is approximately 45% when Japan is defending with 1 DD and 3 Fighters.
I think that I am now a convert and would suggest an attack if Japan leaves only one ship in SZ6. If it has extra protection such as another Japanese destroyer or sub, the USA1 attack likely doesn’t make sense unless you are playing against a far superior opponent or Germany had a ridiculously good G1 opening.
@Private-Mike said in IC placement?:
I would assume you can not place an industrial complex in any new territory that have been conquered? Correct? My second question is this: Do you guys like to buy a complex (major or minor) for Romania and if so what round? If you buy it on round 1, you can go hard at Russia round 2, but you tip your hand at no Sea Lion. Plus, I like the carrier because I planned on moving it to the med to help with Italy.
Correct you must own the territory at the start of your Turn to build an IC .
Building a Major IC in Romania on G1 is known as the Romanian Rush. It is the precursor to attacking Moscow on G6. I do not see a valid reason to build a minor IC there.
Oh, one more thing. The huge Japanese battleship was called Yamato. Yamamoto was the name of Japan’s most famous admiral. Maybe the arrival of Admiral Yamamoto would indeed correspond to having an extra battleship, but I’m not sure that’s what you intended.
@SS-GEN said in The new forum has been a lot of work and it's not done yet:
I know it’s getting better but I posted a reply for my game report in house rules and with the changes the stuff just gets buried. Somebody post another tread reply and such now you have to go threw every topic to find it. Just sayin.
If I’m understanding correctly, there’s no difference between the old forum and the new forum for this situation. If you post a topic, and a bunch of folks post different topics, your topic will eventually end up on another page unless somebody replies. On forums, “stuff gets buried” all the time.
Also, you absolutely do not have to go through every topic to find your topic. This has come up multiple times, there are tips and tricks that cover this, I added helpers in the navigation bar. Not to be harsh but I’m just not sure what else we’re supposed to do.
Here’s a recap of your options:
Notifications: there is a bell near your avatar on the toolbar. When somebody replies, there will be a red number. Click that and you’ll get all of your notifications.
Replies to your Posts: I literally added this to the toolbar because people were complaining about finding their stuff. It’s the double-left arrow in the nav bar. It’s literally the same as clicking Notifications followed by “See all Notifications”
Recent Topics: Click the clock in the nav bar. Where it says “All Topics” select “Watched Topics” instead. You can even select a category to further narrow it down.
Recent Watched Topics: Click the eye in the nav bar. That will give you “recent” watched topics, including any topic you made or any topic you replied to. (I think I’ll change this to the next one)
All of Your Watched Topics: Go to your profile. Click the 3 dots. Click Watched.
Your Topics: Go to your profile. Click the 3 dots. Click Topics.
Bookmarks: If a particular topic is super important, then click the three dots on a topic, the one next to Reply, Quite, <heart>, < 3 dots> and click Bookmark. To find your bookmarks: Go to your profile. Click the 3 dots. Click Bookmarks.
That 6 ways to find your stuff. The old forums had a stupid icon that was hard to see and made no sense, I think it was a face or something. The replies to your posts was nice but we have that and more.
Note: there’s a bug with your watched topics if you have infinite scrolling turned on. I’ll file it later.
@Imperious-Leader said in Axis & Brollies : Action Cards and Event Cards:
you should set it up with card decks made at “Artscow” or something like it in terms of name. They are sold as long as you set up account and you will earn a bit of change
www.makeplayingcards.com was recently (2019) used successfully by siredblood to produce his “Blood Bath” A&A version card deck - at a resulting fair price for consumers
drivethrucards.com was recently (2018) used successfully by Young Grasshopper to produce his co-deck “Omaha” and “Utah” cards for A&A G’40 - at an absolute steal of a deal for consumers
If you have not already done so, please consider selling your deck(s) at either or both sites - I would love to see you get paid for your work.
Since I had the U.S. naval colors out, I pushed through with the Lexington rebuild.
Here’s the previous look.
Reused everything but the rear structure, boosting the fwd. island about 1.5mm. Rear section fabricated with styrene stock.
Think I might have gone a little to big? Still 100% better. That’s what I get for trying to use the rear of a classic tank turret the first time.
Stay safe all.