INFANTRY: Cost $3, Value 3.5, OFCR .333, DFCR .666
Infantry is by far the most cost-effective unit for the job. Its cost is not dependent on any special attributes to maintain its value day in and day out. As a single purpose defensive unit, its DFCR of .666 blows all competition out of the water. Unlike other single purpose units, it is also effective on offense as cannon fodder due to 66% of its cost being for its one Hit Point. With 66% of its cost going to HP, a decent offensive capability and the best defensive capability around it is THE BEST UNIT IN THE GAME hands down.
ARTILLERY: Cost $4, Value 4.5, OFCR .500 (.750 SA), DFCR .500
If Mobility is not an issue the BEST offensive Land unit is artillery. Combined with infantry it has a whopping .5415 OFCR rating. Even with no infantry it attacks and defends as well as armor and provides more HP for the money. Artillery vs armor battles are won by the artillery every day of the week and twice on Sundays.
MECHANIZED INFANTRY: Cost $4, Value 4.5, OFCR .250, DFCR .500
Due to 25% of its cost going to Mobility and not combat statistics the mechanized infantry has one purpose. To provide the same cheap cannon fodder of an infantry but with Mobility attached. If the infantry cannot get there the mechanized infantry is its replacement.
ARMOR: Cost $6, Value 6, OFCR .500, DFCR .500
As an offensive unit, armor is second only to artillery. Because of its Mobility it is an expensive though necessary offensive unit. Due to its high cost, you do not ever want to lose these in combat. These are the Immortals. Use them wisely.
FIGHTER: Cost $10, Value 10, OFCR .300, DFCR .400
King of defense at Sea. Creme de le crème of the air units on defense.
TACTICAL BOMBER: Cost $11, Value 10, OFCR .273 (.364 SA), DFCR .273
On Land this is a blah unit. Its niche is at Sea on a carrier as an offensive unit paired with a fighter.
STRATEGIC BOMBER: Cost $12, Value 15, OFCR .333, DFCR .083
Best high cost offensive unit in the game. With a movement of 6, 7 with and airbase, the projection of force this unit provides is outstanding. Add in Strategic Bombing and it is one extremely usable unit.
SUBMARINE: Cost $6, Value 7, OFCR .333, DFCR .166
Best Sea unit for offense. Miserable on defense.
DESTROYER: Cost $8, Value 8, OFCR .250, DFCR .250
A sub killer and blocker it is the best and only purchasable Sea dual purpose unit.
CRUISER: Cost $12, Value 11, OFCR .250, DFCR .250
Never buy this unit.
BATTLESHIP: Cost $20, Value 18, OFCR .250, DFCR .250
There are rare circumstances this unit should be purchased.
AIRCRAFT CARRIER: Cost $16 Value 16, OFCR .000, DFCR .166
While not technically a combat ship, it is an air transport, I still showed it here due to its defensive capabilities. A must for any Navy.
SIDEBAR: One if by Land, Two if by Sea
Besides Strategic Bombing all battles occur either on Land or at Sea. The units brought to bear in those battles makes the difference between winning and losing.
Land battles have a combination of infantry, artillery, mechanized infantry, armor and air support. Good management of the proportion of these five unit types is paramount to victory. Every land battle starts with infantry. Infantry is cheap. Dirt cheap. Their combat value is a mere $1 of their total cost. As such they are the best unit on defense and still great on offense as cannon fodder. Artillery combined with infantry is the best offensive combination on the board. If Mobility were not an issue every army would be strictly infantry and artillery. However, for the Attacker their main advance army quickly outpaces their reinforcements as they move towards their ultimate objective. Since one big army is better than one strung out army over several spaces that is where mechanized infantry and armor come into play.
A key concept is you need enough cheap infantry in your army to protect your higher value units from dying and to combine with artillery. Since you cannot always get enough infantry moving forward it is the infantry / mechanized infantry tandem that is the core of any army. Then artillery is the second choice. You want enough artillery to be able to bring firepower into the battle and still have the artillery survive the battle. The longer the battle the more infantry / mech infantry you need. Considering major battles for capitals may go 4-5 rounds you want a ratio of 4 or 5 infantry for every 1 artillery so the artillery is still firing with 3 pips on that last round of combat. Finally, you want for the final punch armor that will NEVER die in combat.
Wait a second, armor fires at three and two infantries only fire at 2; so the armor is better…right? No, because once the armor is dead you lose 3 firepower instead of 1. The two infantries provide you with two casualties where the one armor only provides you with one casualty. What you want is enough infantry so that the armor is never threatened with death and then yes, you do want one armor instead of two infantries because the armor is firing at 3 instead of 2. But only once the armor is safe. This is also true for three mechanized infantries versus two armor, even though it is 3 firepower versus 6 firepower, it is also 3 casualties protecting the high cost armor instead of only 2 casualties. This is easy to replicate. Go to a big battle in Moscow and open the Battle Calculator. Remove armor and put in infantry (1 for 2) or remove armor and put in mechanized infantry (2 for 3) and you will see the percentage chance of winning goes up and the TUV goes up. That is because you are losing cheap units instead of expensive units. At some point it even outs and then goes down and this is now because you have more infantry than you need to protect your artillery and armor so your firepower is not as great as it could be with the already protected higher value artillery and armor. It is a balancing act that reaps great rewards.
While always a blessing and necessary for additional firepower, due to their high cost, air units should only be bought for land battles once the main force is too far away to be reinforced with fast movers (mechanized infantry and armor).
Oh, one last thought for Land Battles. Is your Power on Defense? Remember when I said infantry was the defensive best unit in the game? When on defense, in general, your motto should be “Infantry, infantry, infantry, more infantry and then even more infantry.”
If you have not noticed it yet I will tell you this; sea units are expensive! Fleets are horribly expensive. Thus rule #1 for Naval Warfare is DO NOT LET YOUR FLEET GET SUNK! The best odds you should ever give your opponent of winning a Naval Battle is 50%, and even that is taking a risk with the Dice Gods. Losing an expensive fleet on the cheap is a really good way to lose a game.
Luckily DFP is cheaper for naval units than OFP. So, if you and your opponent are both spending the same amount of money on your Navy, then neither of you are going to be able to kill each other. That is why it is not uncommon to see two large navies staring at each other in the ocean with neither side able to attack the other one. Therefore, unlike Land combat, Naval combat is often more a game of maneuvering than blunt force.
So, assuming your Navy is not already a lot bigger than your opponents the first thing you must do is get your DFP up and the aircraft carrier / two fighter combo is the best to accomplish that. Once you have an advantage you can start buying tactical bombers to go with your fighters and carriers. Later you can add subs for even more punch but only if you are 100% safe from being attacked as subs suck on defense.
- Carriers and Fighters = Core Units
- Destroyers to only kill enemy submarines and to block if your fleet is too small to stand toe to toe with your opponent’s fleet.
- Cruisers and Battleships = Only with what you started the game with.
- Tactical Bombers = Can add to pair with fighters once you have obtained Naval Superiority for offensive punch and still good defense.
- Submarines = Only buy once you have achieved Naval Supremacy and looking to kill the enemy fleet or do convoy disruption.