@Plantageneto said in Operation See lion:
I’m new player and I have a doubt. Looking the 1941 setup, it’s seem too easy, in my opinion , for the Germany attempting England invasion at the first turn. Just a destroyer in sea and few units, if you calculate the punch is a 50/50
Not sure how you came up with those figures, or what you consider to be an ‘EASY’ victory, running this in dice sim, the BEST outcome I got was an 8% chance:
Revised objectives and Victory Cities chart to correct error spotted by beaudoin996:
Hopefully no more corrections will be required…
@Panther Well said, thank you. Whether we like certain rules is subjective, so we can agree to disagree. I don’t like that if UK liberates Karelia the turn before Russia falls, the territory is rendered worthless, and the factory inoperable. But if the UK liberates Karelia the turn after Russia falls, they get the value of the territory and a fully functioning factory. I’d like to see control revert to any occupying allied force, upon lost of a capital. Losing a capital would still hurt, but it would make more sense than a territory suddenly becoming worthless and dormant.
But this isn’t a rules clarification, this is a rules wish.
Axis and Allies Anniversary Edition
Players must agree on the following options before starting the game:
Which Scenario are we playing?
How many victory cities will we play to?
a) 13 cities
b) 15 cities (default)
c) 18 cities
Research and Development allowed?
National Objectives allowed?
Dardanelles closed to sea movement?
Fighter Escorts and Interceptors allowed?
Got a replacement copy…still have issues with box components being damaged…I’m 2/2. Pretty disappointing, especially one that costs as much as it does. I’m wondering how widespread their quality control problem goes for the Anniversary edition…
From the Anniversary rulebook, page 31:
“A transport can load and offload units without moving from the friendly sea zone it is in (this is known as “bridging”). Each such transport is still limited to its cargo capacity. It can offload in only one territory, and once it offloads, it cannot move, load, or offload again that turn”.
So it can bridge exactly one time per turn, either during Combat Move Phase (into a hostile territory) or during Noncombat Move Phase (into a friendly territory).
@general-LD Rulebook says:
"Submersible: A submarine has the option of submerging. It can do this anytime it would otherwise make a Surprise Strike (see below). The decision is made before any dice are rolled by either side (the attacker decides first) and takes effect immediately. When a submarine submerges, it’s immediately removed from the battle board and placed back on the map. As a result, it can no longer fire or take hits in that combat. "
Just gonna say we use NA, Event cards, Tech and NOs in my game and it doesn’t throw balance off. This all depends on how you have it in game. Example as Axis roll said yes we roll for each country 2 NA you get at start of game always.
Event card each country draws at start of there turn so every body knows what they can do not do or loss or get something.
The NOs are just for 3 Island groups controlled in game. Tech is a 10 tech table and yes random die roll after break thru but not all techs are good for your country. Not trying to say nothing negative in how you guys play. Just ideas here.
Low luck has its moments too. Guys want the normal die roll risk and it does represent in game morale, supplies, accuarcy and such and such.
Axis roll its funny to see when guys roll for that NA at start of turn !!! lol
@taamvan said in Anniversary 2017 Reprint - rule changes?:
The reprint could have re-organized the setup charts, which are not very rationally laid out and appear to just wander around the area and put the units in a different order in each list. In the better organized versions, the lists are alphabetical, or some snake around the land then the sea–but it would be more rational to have some uniformity to that, rather than just a messy list without any rhyme or reason.
As to the tournament rules, the game is VASTLY different in that setting than OOB. The NOs add a ton of money, the tech adds a lot of randomness. I think the tech favors the allies because they are well-positioned to invest in that starting on turn 1, and would probably make better use of most of the random outcomes than the Axis.
I find both games to be quite imbalanced, towards the Allies. There are no other maps where fighters can fly in one move from US to London, then from London unblockably to Moscow (over the top, 4 moves). There are more layers of buffer territories for moscow–almost as many territories in the “maze” as global. In the 42 scenario, the Germans just punch themselves out really quickly trying to fight in the russian maze. And the 5$ tanks are a big boon for Russia because it can fight Germany on even terms. You might argue that goes both ways, but in most of our 41 and 42 games, Germany has to buy DEFENSIVELY, all game–not just $5 tanks. The Allies have easy choices of what to buy–tanks for russia and fighters for the other two powers, until Russia is absolutely untakable. India without a factory is a lost cause. Both setups are an easy 5-turn KGF, OOB.
In the tourney, its a 6 turn game with less than a 6 bid for either side. The Allies won 1-2 more games than the Axis did, in 2018, under these parameters. I think the only way this is possible is for the Axis to grab Sydney, India, Karelia, and then hold those, plus the original Axis cities. They can lose 1 and still win a tie, I believe.
Not having watched the invitational games in detail, that’s the only conclusion I can draw from the available data.
This is an odd reply to a question about the rules being reprinted…
You could be right about the mixing of old and new pieces. I have the original 50th anniversary edition, and have got to say that some of the pieces were miss formed and not of great quality. I have switched those out with other pieces. Since I own every edition except for 1940 Pacific, I can say that the older game pieces were of much better quality…but you need the newer games to get those newer sculpts, so it is a challenge to have it both ways. Anyway good luck, and hope you enjoy “anniversary “. It, and along with the original “Pacific 2000” are my favorite editions
I had planned on making it to Gen Con this year but I wasn’t able to get the time off work on the relatively short notice. Definitely going to try making it to Origins/Gencon next year though. I live on the US East Coast so the CA Tournaments, Young Grasshopper’s Tournaments, etc. are probably out of the question though, just as a logistics thing.
I have been playing around with different configurations for a custom table and wanted to note some things I’ve landed on that I really like. A main one thing is having the map mounted so that it can slide around as needed on top of a bigger playing area. My table is 65” x 95” in total with a 5.5” arm rest around the outside and the middle is a recessed neoprene surface. I have the OOB Global map mounted on 1/2” rigid foam with a 1/2” aluminum frame around it. This allows the map to slide up close to whoever’s turn it is, but then be in the middle so both players can roll dice In front of them without disturbing the map and in easy view of the other player. (Plus we like lots of room to roll the bones). This ability to adjust the surface along with a standing height, makes it comfortable for long uses because you can move around more and don’t feel as tied down.
Things I’ve learned and changed from original design - I originally used too big of a frame for the map and mounted it on too high of a foam block (you can see these pictures at the bottom) - it made it hard to see the other player’s dice and the big frame took up too much real estate. My global map is mounted on much thinner foam (the framing is bad, you can see if you look closely) but I also used much thinner aluminum angle for the frame. This gives just enough grip when needing to move the map around (I use furniture slides on the bottom, which glide very nicely on the neoprene) but doesn’t make the whole thing too bulky. Having it an inch or so off the surface keeps the dice off, but isn’t so heigh that you can’t see the other player’s dice rolls. When playing other versions (such as Zombies) the board is much smaller, but it can easily swap in and out on the same table since it can move around where ever it is needed or be pushed aside.
I originally made it normal table height, but found long reaches while sitting were harder and it just felt cramped. Standing height with a bar stool is a great way to have the best of both worlds.
The 5.5” rim around the table itself gives you a nice arm rest that doesn’t interfere with the gaming surface. I’m playing with how to best add some cushion to this part - open to suggestions. Sometimes I just lay a piece of leftover neoprene on it.
Dice bounce nice on the neoprene and stay off the floor. It also feels nice and has enough give to allow things to slide but be picked up easily. Wouldn’t definitely go with neoprene again as a surface covering.
I made the drawers open to the inside of the table so you can stay hunched over the action while accessing and stowing stuff away. 50/50 on whether I would keep this if I were to do it again. If I were doing it again, I might try to build customer drawers form scratch using actual drawer glides, but that was beyond my ability when I first did this, so I just used clear plexiglass boxes with aluminum pulls mounted on them. It’s nice having them clear, and I was happy with how the pulls came out, but without glides they can be a little fussy sliding in and out of their slots.
I originally designed the table so that I could put a cover surface back on top when not in use, but find I don’t really ever do that, so if I were to do it again, I might not mess with that part (I never even finished staining those as you can see in the pictures).
@Imperious-Leader said in Axis & Brollies : Action Cards and Event Cards:
you should set it up with card decks made at “Artscow” or something like it in terms of name. They are sold as long as you set up account and you will earn a bit of change
www.makeplayingcards.com was recently (2019) used successfully by siredblood to produce his “Blood Bath” A&A version card deck - at a resulting fair price for consumers
drivethrucards.com was recently (2018) used successfully by Young Grasshopper to produce his co-deck “Omaha” and “Utah” cards for A&A G’40 - at an absolute steal of a deal for consumers
If you have not already done so, please consider selling your deck(s) at either or both sites - I would love to see you get paid for your work.
to @djensen @Panther @redrum . You all have put a lot of work into the transition. @simon33 has been helpful with his comments as well.
And thank you to everyone else helping out with the change.
It may take a while to get used to the new program, but it’s gonna work just fine : )