Nice! I’ll have to try that one too.
My play group also plays with national objectives and low luck most times. Some things we’ve tried that helps is first and foremost that China is allowed to exit Chinese territory so that Japan can’t let them grow out of of control with no consequence, and also that China’s move is linked to Russia instead of US, so they get to go before Japan and not have to lose the flying tigers. (We’ve also tried a modified version where we just change the placement so that the Flying tigers fighter survives.)
@axis_roll said in What's the latest best Japan opening?:
@PizzaPete said in What's the latest best Japan opening?:
Anyone here ever try putting a Japan IC in East Indies Round 1?
YES! That was the first reply in this thread
@axis_roll said in What's the latest best Japan opening?:
@Soviet-Steamroller said in What's the latest best Japan opening?:
1) where to put my IC? (F.I.C. or Burma directly under UK’s nose?).
East Indies. It produces 4 units per turn, you’ll have a navy nearby in SZ35 after J1 (for a J2 build of a tpt and 2 inf, perhaps AAA if the allies get cute with a USA bomber in australia
A decent UK player would probably put an IC in India in response but also could muster 1 inf from Persia and 2 Fighters (Egypt & Australia). On my J2 i would be facing 4 inf, 2 fighters and 1 AA!
Well don’t I look like an idiot, lol. My bad.
Revised objectives and Victory Cities chart to correct error spotted by beaudoin996:
Hopefully no more corrections will be required…
@Panther Well said, thank you. Whether we like certain rules is subjective, so we can agree to disagree. I don’t like that if UK liberates Karelia the turn before Russia falls, the territory is rendered worthless, and the factory inoperable. But if the UK liberates Karelia the turn after Russia falls, they get the value of the territory and a fully functioning factory. I’d like to see control revert to any occupying allied force, upon lost of a capital. Losing a capital would still hurt, but it would make more sense than a territory suddenly becoming worthless and dormant.
But this isn’t a rules clarification, this is a rules wish.
You could be right about the mixing of old and new pieces. I have the original 50th anniversary edition, and have got to say that some of the pieces were miss formed and not of great quality. I have switched those out with other pieces. Since I own every edition except for 1940 Pacific, I can say that the older game pieces were of much better quality…but you need the newer games to get those newer sculpts, so it is a challenge to have it both ways. Anyway good luck, and hope you enjoy “anniversary “. It, and along with the original “Pacific 2000” are my favorite editions
I had planned on making it to Gen Con this year but I wasn’t able to get the time off work on the relatively short notice. Definitely going to try making it to Origins/Gencon next year though. I live on the US East Coast so the CA Tournaments, Young Grasshopper’s Tournaments, etc. are probably out of the question though, just as a logistics thing.
I have moved the topic to the Anniversary-category. @barnee is correct.
This question is part of the official FAQ:
Q. Are sea zone 1 and Western Canada adjacent?
A. No. The gold map border obscures the fact that the Hudson Bay area of sea zone 1 doesn’t quite
reach all the way to the western edge of Eastern Canada.
Regarding Ships. Ships are organized by size/cost. The more the ship costs the bigger the size of the mold/unit is.
The two that are hardest to distinguish is the cruiser and destroyer. The destroyer is the cheaper of the two, and therefore also the smaller of the two.
If you are confused - just line up one of each type of all the ships somewhere off to the side, so you can see the differences.
Italy wasnt going to be a stand alone nation in the early concept stages - hence the cover not having any Italian represtation.
Bonus - Bull Halsey appears twice - but most of you prolly observed this.
@A-Former-User said in Repairing a Battleship?:
@axis_roll Ok, I guess it was bad planning by having my aircraft carrier fleet without proper protection of a destroyer. I lost 5 fighters after that battle. Thanks for the tip!
That is brutal! I will have to remember to protect my fleets like this. I have built some large fleets mostly with aircraft carriers and fighters and I now realize how vulnerable they were…
The fact that a BB can take a hit is factored into it’s cost, so it is expected that you would soak up hits with it’s ability. Remember, you paid for that when you purchased it. If you think about it like that then it is sort of like suggesting that it is bad form to hit on a 4 when you attack with a bomber, and reducing it to 3.
If you are playing with new players and are worried that they forgot about this ability and didn’t factor it into their attack plans then I would just remind them before the battle and allow them to adjust their plans if needed.
Re: Think K[G/J/I]F is over?
As a recent new player to AA50 I would respond to this old post with a nuanced strawman approach (heavily based on my pref for Allies) but useful for Axis. I have wrestled with the math optimization of how to win OOB as Allies no bid in 1942 with NO and tech both on. I have been pondering how much income to send from US in particular to either coast. I’ve read almost all of the posts under AA50 and a few revised. Some say to launch a dedicated SBR campaign against Italy or Ruhr. Others go into a crazy naval build in WUS and do an arms race with IJN. The one post talked about parking an attack fleet with subs and caterpillar from Iwo. Others use the money island gravy train with surprise optionality to attack the Italian boats via the Suez (or repair one of my newb blunders if losing India by a relief invasion from Nimitz).
Particularly for the Allies I have two ways to think about this.
Turn 1 Allies: What IPCs or No’s can I grab cheaply esp with US and UK. What scraps did the Axis leave in the rubble of my fleet on Turn 1?
If the cheesy AI skips Pearl I roll into Solomon. No cost of new units. Got one of my NO.
If Herr Donitz can’t sink my Brit cruiser or B.B. I am taking you to Casablanca with the Canadians. Play it again Sam, no cost of new units.
If Burma or Manchuria is stupidly left open I walk in an Indian or Siberian picket for no cost except deadzoning the poor guy. Free or dirt cheap.
if the Japs are steaming for Midway I sneak in with my scrappy little 2 US guys into Borneo. Japs can’t cover everything or even most anything in the PAC and I snipe and nibble and scrape. Anything I can take I snag with Us fleet.
So far I have spent 0 IPCs as US. I call this Kill cheapest first.
Turn 2+: What about when the subs chew apart my EUS DD and TRx2? Or smoke my Brit BB and I have to start building air and fleet from scratch? I use the other part of the strategy of not what to kill first, but when to kill it with US and UK. There is a delicate dance in build order for US against a good Axis. See what they give you and dance carefully. Maybe a sub and bomber campaign off WUS. Or run the torch playbook or just Bomb the tar out of Rome. My personal favorite.
As a newb I read the Essays. Shuck shuck is unfortunately no longer a viable option. I think the equation is now a generalized formula of a combination of pips per ipc, time needed to bring a given unit to a front, covering fleet per unit moved, and other considerations. Don Rae shuck shuck is like a limited form of a generalized cost benefit analysis including things like power projection and timing, and cost for the surface fleet needed to get that one guy from NY across to Eurasia. It’s just not as easy as inf push mechanic.
My Soviet strategy is again about timing with the timer being East Poland. Once I start seeing a given massing of tanks and inf I go turtle in an orderly and planned way, socking in spitfires and p51s in Moscow. Again it is a cool timing to the game that makes it fun. Where I see a lot of these posts go into a spin cycle is that they are looking at a static playbook that missing the point of when to make the important decisions
A. When to build pacific fleet
B. When to sbr
C. When to invade Norway and so on.
D. When to build the Indian IC. Or not at all. Or wait until Turn 3. Yes that once happened where it was best to wait.
@Panther said in Research and Development Clarification:
@sparky660 Welcome to the forum
In case of a sucessful roll you return all tokens to the bank. In case of a failure you keep them (rulebook, page 11).
Thanks Panther. I read that last night and it didn’t register. I re-read it just now and it’s rather obvious, I don’t know how it confused me.
@rookeries Welcome to the forum
Moving the UK plane to SZ 5 to attack the German transports there indeed is a valid combat move. The battle will be resolved according to the “defenseless transports”-rules on page 19 of the rulebook, sometimes referred to as “autodestruction”.
Scramble is not part of the ruleset here (you might mix that up with the rules for Global 1940).
Also there is nothing in the rules saying that planes must be accompanied by attacking ships.
So never leave your transports unprotected
@Soviet-Steamroller said in Captured Industrial complex in China?:
So long story short it is better never to make any assumption when going back and forth from 1940 to Anniversary right?
If it is not clearly written down then don’t assume it!
Sounds good. However, there are many parallels in the rulesets. But not in this specific case - neither in other cases.
Better check the rulebooks/FAQ, as “assuming” or “believing” is sometimes misleading indeed.
In case of doubts just ask of course!
While I prefer to split my US attention, I suspect (although I have little game data on that) that strong focus on Germany is slightly stronger because a VC win by force is harder to achieve for Japan if Allies play sneaky. AxisDominion is an artist in holding Japan off from taking Hawaii and Sydney with very little fleet presence.
On the other hand, when US ignores Germany, they tend to become an unstoppable juggernaut, and steam-rolling to Egypt is easier than taking (and holding!) Sydney or Hawaii by force.
I took a look at the opening post. Although I do not agree with all points, it sounds quite solid in general and can function as some good common sense and/or as rule of thumbs for less experienced players.
to @djensen @Panther @redrum . You all have put a lot of work into the transition. @simon33 has been helpful with his comments as well.
And thank you to everyone else helping out with the change.
It may take a while to get used to the new program, but it’s gonna work just fine : )
While it’s great to get these cards free of charge it’s a pity you couldn’t find a way to make a little money from all your hard work. I’m sure most people here would have been happy to pay a little for your great efforts.