@regularkid Ok, thanks. I think that particular game was corrupted, as I tried reloading and adding other units. No one could move to SZ91. But yes, I tried a fresh game and of course the move was handled correctly. I posted because I thought that region of the board was probably not playtested much…
Thanks for building this mod. It’s adds another level of complexity.
Ok. More update tweaks to map. Added sea zones to the north.
Couple new convoy boxes based on if Japan goes to war with USSR can cut off supplies from Alaska more or less food and supplies. Other USSR convoy box is if you Hit box you cut off LL pieces that can go there and 3 dam is for food and supplies. The Germans did sink supply ships by Novaga Island. This gives the Axis a 3 spot attack to stop all Lend Lease.
But Russian pilots can land any plane from LL in Krasnoyarsk from Alaska Siberian route.
Also the 1 USSR Destroyer off coast of outer Manchuria can 1 time in game go west through the Northern route and hookup with the USSR Northern fleet in Archangel only in non winter turns. But then he may stay there for a Japan assault landing with a Russian fig from LL Krasnoyarsk if it don’t go to the Eastern front.
@regularkid absolutely it helps, and thanks!
Just to clarify my understanding of the escort force in 2 correctly, when you say an escort force “capable of destroying the enemy warships”, then in the case of a defending sub, the escort force has to have at least one warship (sub, dd, cr or BB) capable of attacking and destroying the sub in order to allow it to be ignored. Thus, planes and even ACs wouldn’t count, since they have no capability to destroy the sub. Is that correct?
No, lot that like lol! What I meant was an alternative history game where the ww1 or ww2 country borders exist on the supercontinent, but the new landscape, bordering countries, and climates will change a country’s industrial scale, economy (wasn’t landlocked before, but now is), type and size of it’s military, and it’s objectives and alliances during the war.
Please understand that this thread has been created so that the creators of the game can collectively organize their ideas for expansions. However, this does not mean feedback is unappreciated, as long as it’s not rude or extremely criticizing.
However, this will likely change as I am working to trim the rules down to a minimum. One thing that will likely be cut is vietnam being a neutral power. It effectively functioned as a subsidiary of china, however, not entirely, so I’m not quite sure. Also for legal reasons, the game is called arms race, not axis and allies, however, it is still an A&A game through and through.
@MacNaughton Yes. I have made up random WW1 Great Powers and related neutral territories all of which can be placed on a map of sea zones. In this way the map can change from game to game. This does take work to make the physical components. The game itself offers the parameters ( a statisitacal analysis of the map & PF values) to make up your own map.
@thrasher1 Yes, you can make fictional A & A maps. You can also have variable placement of these fictional maps so that A& A games can have varying maps (to a degree). This is regarding a board game style variation. A computer programme generated random map would necessitate software coding to really have random fictionalized maps.
This article is more properly termed ‘Creating your own Axis and Allies map, nations and land territories.’ This article is on how to create your own individual and variable land territories. I base the following on a statistical analysis on the A & A Classic game and my design is independent of any other source.
If you examine the Classic map (or any of the other maps) you note the nations (what I call the major powers) and also the neutral or occupied nations (what I call ‘territories’). All these territories (land spaces) whether part of a player nation, or otherwise, have numerical PF values. When you statistically examine these values you are able to extrapolate some value ranges and, for the major powers, whether they may be single territory nations (island or land) or whether they are multiple territory land powers. All this can be randomized as follows using 3D6 dice. Hence we will begin;
Roll 3D6 for size of great power where; 3-11=single Territory Great Power (62.5%) or 12-18= Multiple Territory Great Power (37.5%)
a) If Single Territory roll 2D6 where; 2-5= Island Great Power (28%) or 6-12= Land Great Power (72%)
b) If Multiple Territory roll 2D6 where; 2=2 Territories (3%), 3-4= 3 Territories (13%), 5-6= 4 Territories (25%), 7-8= 5 Territories (31%), 9-10= 6 Territories (19%), 11=7 Territories (5%) & 18=8 territories (3%)
I used Fra & Italy as single territory great powers plus the regular 5 player nations to give better percentages & I weighted the multiple territory great powers to not have too few or too many territories (as you may see).
** There is a range of PF values for the individual Great Powers. I made the range run from 8 to 13 ( a difference of 6).this is weighted, as well, to have most Great Powers to be the same (for balance purposes), hence;
Roll 3D6 for the Production Factors (PFs) of your Great Power where; 3-4= 8PF (2%), 5-7= 9PF (14.5%), 8-10=10PF (33.5%), 11-13=11PF (33.5%), 14-16=12PF (14.5%) & 17-18= 13PF (2%).
A Single Territory Great Power is given the numerical PF value as indicated.
However, a Multiple Territory Great Power has all territories, except the first, initially assigned a PF value of 1. The first territory is always the territory with more PFs than any other. Then, for every territory initially at 1, a further 3D6 roll is made where the territory value changes as follows; 3-9 = 1PF (value remains as 1) (37.5%), 10-13= 2PF (46%) & 14-18= 3PF 16.5%). * This may increase the Multiple Territory Great Power PF total above 13 but in only rare instances of many territories and higher die rolls.
There are, therefore, three different types of Great Power, namely;
A) A Single Territory Island Great Power such as Japan or the United Kingdom
B) A Single Territory Land Great Power such as France, Germany or Italy
C) A Multiple Territory (Land) Great Power such as the Soviet Union or the United States
The next step in territory creation is to determine how many nearby ‘neutral’ territories will be somehow adjacent or 1 sea space away from your Great Power (if an island). Hence;
Roll 3D6 to determine the number of nearby neutral territories where; 3= 1 territory (.5%), 4=2 territories (1.5%), 5=3 territories (3%), 6=4 territories (4.5%), 7-8= 5 territories (16.5%), 9-12= 6 territories (48%), 13-14=7 territories (16.5%), 15=8 territories (4.5%), 16=9 territories (3%) , 17=10 territories (1.5%) & 18=11 territories (.5%).
Next, one must randomly determine and in some manner, an orderly way, in what direction from your Great Power these neutral territories lie. Here there will be differing results so long as they are randomized without bias. Specifically, where one has an Island Single Territory Great Power the first random roll will determine in what direction the nearby neutral territory land mass will lie the requisite one sea zone away. The direction and what the arrangement of these neutral territories will be can be either a clump of territories rather round in shape or may be an extended chain of neutral territories (or some combination) all depending on the random dice rolling. After determining these neutral territory positions it is only necessary to determine the PF values of these neutral territories, as follows;
Roll 3D6 to determine the PF value of each neutral territory where; 3-11= 1 PF (62.5%), 12-13= 2 PF (21%), 14-15= 3PF (11.5%), 16=4PF (3%), 17=5PF (1.5%) & 18= 6PF (.5%).
Following these steps above will result in a Unique Great Power and related nearby neutral territories all with specific PF values. This is just to create one of, at least, five Great Powers. As in the original A & A Classic map there will be at least one neutral continent similar to South America. One will also need to have several ‘large islands’ meaning other multiple territory islands and also some single neutral territory islands to fill in the map. All of these territories will use the #4) 3D6 roll listed above to determine their PFs.
Note that one must use the PF points total from an A & A map and extrapolate from this, normally, as if one had five players, hence one should have five real life players make up their own unique Great Power as illustrated above.
Also, one must make a map of sea zones and number these zones so that these new ‘lands’ may be randomly placed on a map. Sea spaces can be numbered sequentially. Furthermore, there is the matter of ‘names’ for land territories (land spaces). Some manner of logic should be used. I chose & my friends chose specific nationalities and then we used an atlas to randomly pick specific names (we used randomized atlas index entries). Using random alphabet letter generation also helps. Note one will have to create borders. Adhere to roughly equal sized areas (for ease of unit placement & room for same). Note this whole process of making new paper maps & of course a sea map board will take some time.
Although this suggested random map creation system seems difficult it is not if one has some guidelines to follow and one follows it to conclusion.
Lastly, you will have a unique A & A game map whatever A& A version you like playing and You and Your Gaming Friends will have their own ‘unique Great Power’.
@Flashman I know of an amateur made game that you can print out called Orbital Battle by a guy named Mike Fisher. You download it from his own website for free.
It’s one of the space games. His site has over 20 home made strategy games.
It is not an exact gameplay copy of A&A as it uses a hex map and the defending units are only forced to retreat away from an attacker if the dice roll doesn’t roll high enough.
It is played on a solar system map 21 hexes across that has 8 planets on it that move on orbital paths each turn. Also, each planet has it’s own small ground map only 7 hexes across.
@JustLuthor I have the True Neutral Lid done (All true neutrals and mongolia). I’ll work on the other one soon. Let me know if you need the sides of the box too. The colors may not be fully match with out of game box if printed out.
True Neutral Box
to @djensen @Panther @redrum . You all have put a lot of work into the transition. @simon33 has been helpful with his comments as well.
And thank you to everyone else helping out with the change.
It may take a while to get used to the new program, but it’s gonna work just fine : )
@Midnight_Reaper said in 20 Years of Axis & Allies .org:
@CWO-Marc As for what we did and did not have back in 2000, I made a small chart
Great chart, Midnight Reaper; it brings back lots of memories. A further point to note is that, in Classic, only the infantry sculpt was nation-specific and was based on authentic WWII designs; the equipment sculpts started following the same design principle with Europe / Pacific / Revised, though it took a long while to achieve (by combining E1940.2, P1940.2 and 1941) a full array for everyone except France. We were also treated to some neat special-category sculpts: the German blockhouses in D-Day, the American and German trucks in Bulge, and the entirely-other-war sculpt set of 1914. Another nice development in the official games has been the addition of China, Italy, ANZAC and France to the original five powers (US, UK, USSR, Germany and Japan). And in the early days, people who wanted extra types of units (or extra colours to represent other countries) had to make do with third-party products like the Xeno and Table Tactics ones or the Enemy on the Horizon expansion set, the quality of which was uneven and the availability of which wasn’t always great. Things certainly have changed.
Since I had the U.S. naval colors out, I pushed through with the Lexington rebuild.
Here’s the previous look.
Reused everything but the rear structure, boosting the fwd. island about 1.5mm. Rear section fabricated with styrene stock.
Think I might have gone a little to big? Still 100% better. That’s what I get for trying to use the rear of a classic tank turret the first time.
Stay safe all.