Piece Count for Various Sets

Some of these numbers, especially for Italy and Anzac, are way over what is really used in an average game.

I would recommend that you start playing with the pieces that you already have and use plastic tokens or any other marker for the units that you don’t have.

That way you will see what pieces you really need and those that don’t get that much use.

If you wait until you have a “complete” set before you start playing, you will never get the feel for this and it will cost you a lot of money to buy pieces that may just stay in the box.

However, take into account that most battle pieces are sold in sets of five by HBG.

@noob_melon No. Only Doug has knowledge on this.

Here is how I proceeded.

I already owned the A&A Europe 1940 first and second editions, so with the pieces from all these sets, I had a good base for France, Germany, Italy, Japan, UK and USSR, plus the Chinese infrantry for KMT.

I also own the A&A pacific with red chinese soldiers that I am using for the CCP infantry (there is also one Pacific edition where the japanese pieces are red).

This still leaves a lot of pieces to buy from HBG or to scavenge from other sources (cavalry, neutrals, militia, air transports, medium bombers, coastal subs and battleships, TBDs, light cruisers, tank destroyers, advanced mech and artillery, SP-artillery (basic and advanced), motorized infantry (trucks), etc.).

Some powers have specific and different sculps available, but not all, so in the end you will need to paint pieces and still use some kind of tokens/markers to distinguish some special units.

As @Ghetty pointed out, if you can get your hands on HBG « wrong colour » pieces for units that you have to paint anyway, that is a good option to obtain cheap pieces. Their spare pieces from old A&A Games can also provide a cheaper option and can be purchased individually, but are not always available. For instance, I built almost all my Canadian forces for the CAW expansion with older « celery » color british units and painted what was missing.

I also bought some scupts from I will never grow up games. Unfortunately, I find that the 3D printing leaves a lot of visible « fibers » and the plastic is very brittle and small details can easily break, such as tank barrels and ship towers. IMO, the best sculpts from them are the German trucks which can be used for Motorized infantry (especially if you don’t own A&A Battle of the Bulge for the trucks).

I think that you have to see Global War as an ongoing project, as there will probably be new pieces available over time that can replace your generic units or markers.

I would not advise anyone to try to get « everything » before playing their first game. You have to go by steps and find out over time what you are missing and what can be improved.

Home depot has some good options, I was able to get this HDX 65-Compartment 5-in-1 Small Parts Organizer for 7 bucks on sale. I should have gotten more.

Your time is valuable. Invest 90 seconds now, to save yourself tons of time later!

Watch this video from 6:00 to 7:30 to see how to set up your dice in Global War 36: https://youtu.be/rdwq2zReD_E

Call them whatever you want. Just be consistent in the use.

-Midnight_Reaper

@credulous said in Base Set 2:

I’ve caved and just bought the 3D printed versions instead where I need them as maybe it will never arrive (given the focus on individual nation sets instead).

I feel your pain and came to the same conclusion. This increases the cost of entry and therefore decreases the number of people who will play this game.

I’ve found that a couple sheets’ worth of paper “Light” and “Heavy” roundels works to disambiguate which tanks/cruisers/battleships/carriers/bombers are which. Not the prettiest option, but sure is the cheapest.

For instance:

Heavy roundels designate - Heavy Artillery (my homebrew artillery tech “Heavy Artillery Doctrine”, same stats except Costs +1, supports two infantry units), Heavy Tanks, Heavy Strategic Bombers, Heavy Cruisers, Heavy Carriers, Heavy Battleships

Light roundels designate - Light Tanks, Light Cruisers, Light Carriers, and I use “Light” roundels to indicate “Fast Battleships” as well, since they move faster than ‘standard’ battleships