Custom Pill Boxes

Sorry only just saw this

So step one would be finding the right image editing program for what you’re trying to achieve. TripleA uses raster graphics images (basically png) and is not suitable for printing. Upscaling the largest relief I’ve made in tripleA and trying to print it at 600 dpi the filesize gets quite beefy. Basically an image that’s like 50mb for use in tripleA is going to climb way up by orders of magnitude into the many gigabytes. It will also tax the RAM pretty hard if you’re trying to edit an image that large (in actual dimensions) like trying to use multiple layers at once. I have a pretty high end gaming laptop and I topped out around 8000p before GIMP started giving me headaches and slowing to a crawl.

What you probably want is an image that you can manipulate as SVG rather than PNG. A vector so you can upscale the image to any dimensions that way (basically the same way font works.) I would try Inkscape or Adobe, and try to get a pull of the image as a vector graphic.

You can start the same as you would in tripleA by creating a baseline image of the basic world map, the continent contours or world warp you want and the territory or sea zone divisions, showing just the basic borderlines in 100% black at 1px width at the desired dimensions for the digital thing.

A physical print would be much larger, so imagine that on your screen you got 72p per inch, on paper that needs to be 600 dpi. You can go lower say 300 dots per inch if it’s very graphic, but a photo quality print is basically like 600p, which is pretty hefty. In a program like inkscape or illustrator etc you can translate a raster image into something that works for stuff like signage, you know, so like making a giant banner image to put on the side of a truck or hang outside a building - same sorta deal here for the scale of the image you’d want to make. Probably the size of a 6 or 8 foot banquet table, possibly larger depending, on what you’re trying to pull off.

If you have the map drawn out at scale, you can scan in sections at A3 or A4 size with a flat scanner and then reassemble the image, to pull it at the highest resolution you can before bringing that image into inkscape to create a vector of it.

ps. here are some youtube tutorial videos on inkscape just to see what sort of stuff I mean. You can probably find more just pulling at those threads. Once you have a map design you can put in tripleA to playtest it by creating a baseline from your svg, exporting the image as a bitmap or png where the borderlines are just solid black ideally at 1px width for those lines, or as close as you can get. For a map image something that’s like 2000-4000p tall and about twice as wide or larger works well for digital sculpts which are png images at 48-54px tall up to 125% currently in tripleA. The map size in tripleA is sorta limited by the unit graphics sizes and the windows in the UI. In inkscape you can make it larger, like for whatever makes sense to have the print look decent. Anyhow, just a quick example you can skip around to see

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Ns028ihACs&list=PL_NagE_y_IhIBNAzw3nFBiF01OKnaltmJ

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DnqtnSTe6qM

https://youtu.be/kS2nrXuR128?t=2611

for tripleA you can use GIMP to make the relief images in png. Here’s an example of similar videos in that program

https://youtu.be/HLmOpEETjEo?t=646

@Call77 and its not finished like I have said a few times

I could help with financing?

Dice would have either land or naval with a separate category of Air because that branch overlaps both

Symbols for land: ( green) 6 dice in set
Infantry x 1
Armour x1
Mech x1
Artillery x2
Blank x1

Symbols for Naval: ( blue) 6 dice in set

Battleship x1
Cruiser x1
Destroyer x1
Submarine x2
Blank x1

Symbols for Air: (white) 6 dice in set

Fighter x2
Fighter-Bomber x2
Strategic Bomber x 2

@jeffcamis:

I determined the biggest size that would fit on my dining room table would be 28 inches by 51 inches.  Can I go to a print shop have them down a map and print it in that size?

You definitely can print the map I shared with the community (look at 2Huskies link) at this size.

Really nice models that stand out well with a rather simple paint scheme. Well done!

@Young:

Those look awesome wolf, I would be very interested in getting some of those.

I know you’re in Canada, so not sure how/what your limits are to shopping or ordering online, but here’s a link to the organizers from Home Depot online… if nothing else, you get “the official” name.

I use these for the nation trays
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-7-in-6-Compartment-Small-Parts-Organizer-83039N13/204536852

I use this for the accessories
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-6-in-6-Compartment-Storage-Bin-Small-Parts-Organizer-Clear-and-Black-THD2015-03/301959981

Of course, use them as you will…

As for my flags, I just used Vistaprint and made some small rectangular product labels and you upload your pictures into them… perfect for national bin flags… I made sure to use era-appropriate flags (like the 48-Star American Flag)

https://www.vistaprint.com/marketing-materials/labels-stickers/rectangular-product-labels?couponAutoload=1&GP=04%2F08%2F2018+19%3A55%3A49&GPS=4958753423&GNF=1

@Young:

Thanks CWO Marc, really appreciate your comments… do you play often? I understand there is a lot of players in Montreal, do you have a game group?

For many years I’ve had too much going on in my life, professionally and otherwise, to have had time to do much of anything other than collecting the A&A games.  And, to be honest, I have too many issues with many of the features of the various A&A games that I’ll probably never play anything other than what I’m hoping to create at some distant point in the future when I do have the time for it, which is a completely personalized version of the Global game that, for all intents and purposes, keeps the sculpts and the map board but throws out the entire rulebook and reconceptualizes the game from scratch.  And it’s not even fully correct to say “keeps the sculpts and the map board” either.  I’ll be expanding the number of nations and the number of unit types by making use of the very large pool of A&A sculpts I’ve acquired over the years, for instance the ones from the early-edition games and the ones from 1941 and 1914.  And as I’ve noted in the thread where I’ve posted pictures of my custom table, one of the first things I did to the Global 1940 map was to rework its “under-the-plexiglass” roundel allocations to better reflect the structure of the world as it existed prior to the invasion of Manchuria in 1931, as a starting point from which I can then modify the map (by placing roundels on top of the plexiglass) to represent any subsequent starting date from 1931 onward.  A related project that I worked on to create the infrastructure for this eventual new game was the Global 1940 map inventory, a copy of which I posted over here last September:

http://www.axisandallies.org/forums/index.php?topic=36590.0

But at this point I don’t have an actual plan for what this reconceptualization will look like.  Nor am I likely to do so until I have the time to work on this project solidly for months at a time…so this may have to wait until retirement (which isn’t for tomorrow by a long shot) before this idea translates into anything concrete.

@Tall:

**––They’re already great,…and on their way to being “PREMIUM”

----You know, I wonder if I my desire for ultimate detail on my units might not be partially to blame for everyones’ “detail addiction” of late. If so I’ll take my ‘bows’ for enfluencing you (in the smallest of ways) in your future endeavors, and I’m anxiously awaiting your future “Premium” works.

Tall Paul**

If you wish to believe that then good for you. Fact is a lot of us don’t have the money to pay for a professional painter let alone a team of them. Fact is, some of us don’t have a whole lot of time to devote to it, but we do learn as we go and so our products keep getting better.  Yes the units you receive may be the best of what any of us could achieve, but like my earlier argument, comes down to time and learning.