I haven’t used that map, but I’d recommend scaling your pieces up by about 10-20% to keep things proportional. Test fit as you go to make sure it works.
[AA50/Anniversary] "G40 Lite" Setup with France, ANZAC, Canada, Aligned Neutrals, and Map Modernizations
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@vodot Is there a setup yet or no? If so where is it? If you do not have one yet I would be happy helping creating one.
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@vodot Have you printed this off yet or made it a actual board yet or no?
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I posted the link to the latest full map file in the OP, but for myself no, no full printout or board yet. Just printing out the overlays and sticking them atop a normal anniversary map like this while we playtest:
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@vodot Is this the board state setup or no?
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@vodot Thats awesome! I plan to print out a number of your changes for my copy of the game. How do you scale all of your printouts?
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@FranceNeedsMorePower said :
@vodot Is this the board state setup or no?
This was close to the endstate for our first playtest. This is the end of I6, Allies conceded after J7.
@TitusJames said :
@vodot Thats awesome! I plan to print out a number of your changes for my copy of the game. Do How do you scale all of your printouts?
Almost all of them should be able to be printed exactly as posted to the forums here - at 400 DPI (dots per inch). This would match the original game board as shown above. If your map is larger than the OOB board, you would have to scale the printouts yourself to match. The OOB board is 24 x 46in, so your printouts should be scaled by whatever the ratio is of the dimensions of your map to those of the original board.
For example, I printed Tjoek’s AA50 map files out at 300DPI, producing final printed dimensions of 32in x 61.33in. That’s a ratio of 4:3 compared to the OOB board, so if you were trying to match my overlays to that printout you would need to scale your prints up by that same ratio (4/3 or 1.33x ). In this case, that would mean printing the overlays at 300 DPI (fewer dots per inch = more “inches per dot”), rather than their native 400 DPI.
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@FranceNeedsMorePower
Here’s what we started with. I tried to meld in the G40.2 setup, combining and splunching unit groups where needed:
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@vodot Nice!
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@FranceNeedsMorePower I haven’t put this on triplea, but @Argothair has created a similar 1941/2 map based off of my overlays, find that here: https://www.axisandallies.org/forums/post/1771557.
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previous pics were missing the German naval setup, this one should be better (yes, that’s a sub in SZ 8):
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@vodot Looks nice!
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Communist China! Have fun coming up with rules for this one, it’s a brain burner. Best I can do off the top of my head:
8.0 Communist China:
8.1 If Communist China is included in the game, then the Soviet Union becomes a third, separate Alliance and no longer wins and loses with the Allies. Soviet Units may no longer share territories or Sea Zones with Allied powers, and vice-versa. Combat between the Soviet Union and the Allies is possible.
8.2 The Soviet Union wins the game if a round ends with the Soviet Union and/or Communist China in control of 5 or more victory cities, three of which must be USSR home cities.
8.3 Communist China is a minor power controlled by and moving with the Soviet Union.
8.4 At the end of each Soviet turn, Communist China places one infantry in any territory they control for every two original Chinese territories they control. If they control only one territory, roll a d6 and place one infantry on a roll of 3 or less. Additionally, the communists may place up to one artillery unit in any territory that is connected in an unbroken chain of Soviet- or Communist-controlled territories to any Soviet home city.
8.5 If there are no communist forces remaining on the board at the end of the Soviet turn, roll a d6. On a 3 or less, choose one of the following: an unoccupied Chinese territory adjacent to a Soviet-controlled territory, or: a Soviet-controlled Chinese territory. Place 1 Communist infantry and a communist control marker (removing any other control marker) in that territory.
Roundels (print @ 4x6in):
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