• Green border states, their is no red states but two “indian territories” in beige color


  • I must say I love your work on all of your games and wish i could get them all…(to bad I dont really have that much money…) But in the future I will definatly looking at your website for some games.  Keep up the good work.


  • Hey thanks alot! ill cut you a good deal. If i was you take anything from my bulge game or lower. This is my period of best work. BTW i can give you a revised axis and allies map double sized for free. The file will have to be taken to the printers. My best artwork is clearly my barbarossa game. Thats a beauty. If you want a ruleset just email me.

    Russian’s and German’s get special discounts!


  • Hey thanks alot but at the moment i wont be able to due to me trying to save up for ww2 the struggle for europe and asia.  But latter ill be back.


  • Wait: i own this game and i was trying to sell it to some chap at Avalon hill forums. I can sell you my copy for $175.00 including shipping ( as long as you live in north america)

    I had the player aids laminated and the rules are in a nice notebook. let me know


  • thanks for the offer but im trying to get the big one with evrything all readdy to go.


  • OH the $1,000 dollar game. Thats what i bought. I was the first customer to have this game. I had to repaint the pieces and glue some of them. I would check out skytrex.com thats where they got most of the pieces. And tumbling dice 1/700 scale from brookhurst hobbies.com… recently they had a killer deal which was free shipping. I spend another 700.00 usd on more pieces and i think i got a better deal that way then buy what they had. You have to keep looking at the site for the sale. It saved me like 30%

    example:

    5 german halftracks for 3.20 usd but they add like 30% for shipping to United States but with the sale it was just 3.20

    look at the thread i posted on their site regarding piece counts… remember you should be getting 800.00 worth of pieces. count the value and check it out if it makes sence.

    I would have faired better if i bought my own pieces ( when of course the sale was on)


  • Skytrex is definately the way to go either with the big $1,000 game or with the version without the minis.  The least expensive way to go is to buy the game without the minis and use plastic pieces and just by minis for the types of units that you don’t have plastic pieces for - though it is less pretty


  • Yep. especially if your not a piece junky. Once you got a decent metal set for like every game of this type your set. Until then you got to use plastic which is fine really.

    also, you can just augment the specialty pieces with metals.

    you need halftracks, trucks, heavy tanks, naval fighters, cruisers. many of these pieces can be inprovised from 2nd edition and that attack! game


  • Im kind of curious about this and some of the rules, and It would be nice if you would explain the basic mechanics of a few of them, like how the commanders work and the union blockade and such.

    EDIT: and victory conditions, since the souths goal wasnt to take over the union,so try to explain that too.


  • email me.


  • Sent, check your inbox for email from Hiimcob@aim.com.

  • '19 Moderator

    Your an Aartist IL, I plan to have my own game room in the near future.  Then maybe we can talk more seriously about some of those games you make.  By the way if I shoot you an email can you send me that large scale AAR map?  I had one, but alot of things get moved and lost in a year and a half.


  • YEA SURE.

    I LIKE THIS:

    #51 on “Jens Worst People in History” list


  • This game looks nice, I like your rules for cavalry covering retreat, and some of the optional rules you made.


  • Tell what you didnt like so i can improve the game. Or how would you do it better? I am allways looking for a better approach.


  • I feel like artillery should defend on a 4.  Looking at the unit stats, I would ask them to attack on a 3, but that means theyre only as powerful on attack as cavalry.  Having attack on a 4 and defense a 3 seemed odd since a group of cannons on top of a hill firing at the oncoming enemy seems like it deserves a higher or at least equal power to one trying to shoot at fortified defenders.

    And I was a bit unsre if I liked the rule where the person losing more units has to retreat, it seemed like it would make a lot of the game haveing 2 big armies moving back and forth between a single space, but then I read on where the defender didnt have to retreat from a victory city, so that became fine by me.

    A few places seemed like they needed reworded in the rules, such as the victory conditions.  I assume you mean the south needs 10 more victory cities than they start with.

    Overall the game looks great.  Which side usually wins when you play?


  • ok ill look into those items. I cant have cavalry and artillery the same. Artillery has to have the best offense.

    The North usually wins, but of course the South if played correctly and getting some decent event cards can win as well.


  • IL, one thing that has impressed me from reading various historical novels about the Civl War was how these armies were moving all over the place using rail lines.  Did you incorporate rail movement into this game?  I’m just curious.  It seems to me that would be a key strategic component to any Civil War strategy game.  I would also love to see the CSS Virginia and CSS Arkansas incorporated as special pieces somehow (make them like self-healing BBs, say).  I know it probably breaks some gaming convention, but those were such special ships historically speaking and it would give the South some unique units to screw with the Yanks with.


  • on a compleatly diffrent note I just got back from a Civil War reenactment.  It was the battle of Olustee, near Lake City FL.  A CSA victory tho the battle had no effect on the war as a whole.  It was pretty cool.

Suggested Topics

Axis & Allies Boardgaming Custom Painted Miniatures

27

Online

17.0k

Users

39.3k

Topics

1.7m

Posts