These are great.  Thanks for the tutorial!  I’ll be using matching sets for all my task force cards.  Too Cool!

Here’s a comparative picture I took of five A&A minis and their A&A boardgame counterparts: three tanks (Sherman, Panther, Tiger) and two battleships (Bismarck, Yamato).

Minis vs Boardgame.jpg

@CWO:

@Duri7:

PS: I would love to add a picture but there no option for me to do this. (Attachment Option shows not up. Links & image links are not allowed) :-/

You need approximately 10 posts before you can attach pictures, due to the forum’s anti-spam software.

Thanks for the clarification! So I’m looking forward to join more discussions (insted of just reading them :roll:) to gain the needed number of postings.

DCC made some 3D printed pieces. Even made the files available to the community. http://cliffsidebunker.com/#custom
http://www.axisandallies.org/forums/index.php?topic=39971.0

There is a golf Tee system used by one of the players here in Toronto. Met him at YG’s Tourney this year. Pretty cheap. Two tees of the same colour. One goes in country of origin, and the other goes into the battle territory. Just need to paint a few sets of Tees different colours, or use ones that are already coloured. Worked out nicely. If they are small enough, they aren’t very intrusive at all.

@Modest_Proposal:

carsonbparker -

So, considering you are trying to make a full GHQ set, do you find the battleships, carriers, and heavy bombers (without stands) to be too large for the standard Global and/or Anniversary map?

Perhaps if I tactfully choose only a few large battleships and carriers and stuck mostly to the medium-smaller ones + support carriers.

,David

I think with the bombers is were the real problem would be.  In the average game there usually aren’t tons of carriers and battleships littered across the board so even though they’re a little big its doable.  A big carrier like the Yorktown or the battleship Yamato or Bismark can easy be longer than an individual sea zone.  The destroyer size is perfect and cruisers and smaller battleships fit nicely. The Yorktown for instance is a quarter longer than my middle finger so they’re close to 4 inches long.  But I just finished the Japanese Escort carrier Ryujo and it’s honestly a great size (maybe more like 2.5 /inches). Tanks are perfect, mechanized infantry is just right, fighters are a tab bigger but good size.  Bombers now can span more that a whole country.  For instance the German HE-11 bomber has a wing span of about 2.5 / 3 inches.  On the ground they would virtually take up all the space of say Western Germany.  The magnet flight stands I use have a nail shaft to hold them up (they’re kinda heavy compared to plastic) and the pewter base I use is around the circumference of a quarter so the stands them selves still take up some room.  As the gentleman noted as well the pieces are a bit heavier bit I like the solid feel they bring and they’re kinda tacky on the board which is cool.  Regarding the bigger ships I’ve never been one for shying away for using task cards or zones.  The big navies always use these anyways in my games so they’re not much of a problem.  I’m also going to be to be using a bigger board soon so that will help with the pieces being on the bigger side.  It’s just the tactical and heavy bombers that need to be lifted to make room for the pieces on the bottom.

The next group of infantry, will be, DESERT LIGHT INFANTYRY.

Until next time.

Cheers!

John

No Trenacker. Just get a white primer and don’t forget to put on some sort of clear coat after to protect them.

Thanks Spitfire38, for your kind words and encouragement, as well. Yes, looking forward to meeting you someday as well, whether painting or playing.

Thanks buddy! :-D

Cheers!

John

The best approach I’ve seen was a friend who cut his factories in half with a hacksaw. Large factories are majors, while the smaller, halved factories are minors.

I’ve got mine painted three different colors. Bought a lot of 50 for a few dollars from a vendor at Nashcon in May 2016.

Before Nashcon, I used red Monopoly hotels for the major factories and the green hotels for minor factories. I still like to use the green ones every now and again because I think they’re nifty.

I couldnt find your pieces on iwngu. How did the final ones come out? Im interested in getting a set of naval and air facilities if its doable.

What did you get? Where did you get them?
You mean value as in attack & defence?

Now that is cool.  I love the camo job too. Excellent!

@robbie358:

Hello all.  I thought I would solicit your thoughts on which types of pieces in any version of A&A scream for painting the most.

IMHO, the most confusing piece on the board in the original Pacific and Pacific 1940 is the USA fighter in China.  Having to differentiate between a Chinese fighter that looks American and any USA fighters in that zone seems like a headache waiting to happen.

Otherwise, I would say the pro-Axis and pro-Allies neutrals in Europe 1940 need attention.  The fact is that upon being attacked, you’re supposed to pick any random country to donate an infantry to that territory.  If the attacker doesn’t win, the infantry stay there but cannot be moved.  Seems like confusion might set in eventually.

Your thoughts?

HBG has British infantry for sale. I bought 25 and painted them white to use for neutral armies.

Just visited your site. Nice! Always looking for some customizations.

DCC,  are you willing to do split sets? As in, im broke and have og factories and only need one type of factory sculpt.
I went to YG site, but my phone wont display the pieces. Anyone mind posting pics?

Lol

I keep my games separate, however I add pieces to them from HBG.

If your only looking for new chips, i would look online for mini poker chips. They come in many colors and run about $3 for 50 pcs. You can buy 2 sets of white and 1 red and it wont matter if they match SOME versions of the games because thats still a lot of chips

@CWO:

@Tjoek:

@R DiStefano: you have the German flag wrong. The Swastika should be close to the flag pole instead of close to the other side.

Actually, shouldn’t the swastika disc be in the middle of the flag rather than off-center?  If so, the which-side-of-the-flagpole issue solves itself.

Depends on what flag you want. The flag from Hitler’s Nazi party is centered, but they used an off centered one (closer to the pole) as the flag for the German Reich itself. As such I would opt for the off center one.