Silly question

@Obergruppenfuhrer:

@Gamer:

The last word is a set preliminarily titled “The Late War” MIGHT be coming out in 2012.  Wizards of the Coast, the manufacturer, seems to be winding this game down, as it is pouring resources into a new game - Angels 20 (an airplane miniature combat simulation game) seemingly at the expense of AAM.

Is that airplane game set in ww2 by chance? I’m intrigued.

Correct

I’m starting to like infantry more now….

:-D

Thanks again!

Good Idea, working up to the full scale.  And your right if you don’t have an objective of turn limit Infantry are a waste of time.  With an objective Close assault becomes possible.

ok, I sent you an email… hope you get it, it was some 6 mb.

sorry for the off-topic.

Hi Folks :

I know I asked this question a couple of months ago, but I can’t remember what thread it was on.  What is the general standard for UNIT BUILD LIMITS.  100 points @ 15 units is the base but I remember there being a increase at higher points.  I’m thinking about 350 to 400 points
on either a reg map (random) or 6 sections.  Does anyone have input?

Axisfan

Thanks Leiter

Also, how long do the games run?
The AH site says 30-90 minutes, but for what size battle is that?

If you don’t count the time to formulate your armies, games rarely last only 30 minutes. 30 minutes is usually for a scenario that gets you into the action right away. Tournament games usually last between 60 and 90 minutes. Recreational games can last up to 2 hours if you’re taking your time. You’re first few games will probably last 2 hours.

Not for what point total he wants to play. It’s usually 45 minutes-1 hour/ 100 points you do. At 250 point armies, which is reaching the limit for point totals maintaining game balance (post 300 you’ll see huge balance issues), expect to play and hour and a half- 2 hours, maybe more in the beginning as you learn the rules. It also depends on the scenario you’re playing.

@Garfunkle:

What size is the standard playing surface?

Well, normally it’s the 2x2 maps they give you. But you won’t be able to play on that surface with the point totals you want to do. You’ll need at least one more starter set to have the ability to play on 4x2 maps or 3x3. Hell, I sometimes consider getting a third starter set for even more maps, as sometimes I feel like 4x2 isn’t big enough. I play 150-200 point battles.

@Garfunkle:

Is there good after market support for terrain and miniatures?

The terrain are maps that come with the game. Some people eventually play using 3-d terrain, but then you have to either play using houserules, or go out and buy hex-terrain, which is a whole new set of expenses.

@Garfunkle:

What scale is 15 mm anyway?

Basically 1:120. It’s more like 1:121, but 1:120 is the accepted number for buying terrain for the game.

@Garfunkle:

Are these plastic minis easy to mod and repaint?

Yes.

@Garfunkle:

I would like to have the ability to field a 250 point army

That’s like fielding a 6,000 point army in Warhammer: it’s really big and might make the game take longer than you want. Before making any army goals, play the game a few times. Having a crapload of miniatures to choose from for army building is sweet, but actually fielding 250 points might be hefty for you, since you mentioned that your kids impede gaming somewhat. 150 points is usually big enough to have alot of fun and see lots of units, but small enough that the game doesn’t last forever.

Welcome aboard. May you make every cover save and ignore enemy Superior Armor… :)

-=Grim=-

face up disrupted counters are removed BEFORE you flip the face down counters, so no, you can’t add a face up disrupted counter to any new face down counter.

In fact, a disrupted counter never adds up with another counter.  So, if a vehicle has a face up damage counter, and in another turn it gets 1 hit, than you put a face down disrupted counter that will get flip during the casualty phase, and the vehicle will have both a face up disrupted counter AND a face up damaged counter, but it won’t be destroyed.