Because all of the images used by MapView must be the same size (80 x 60 is what the A&A Mins modules use), the program supports the concept of a “click-region”. This is a setting associated with each unit that allows for a subset of the image to be designated as the part you can interact with (right click, drag-drop, etc). This region is a rectangle measured in pixels in the format of left, top, width, height.
The last step is to figure out what the click-region should be. The easiest way is to use the standard rectangle selection tool and select a subset of the image that is mostly filled with the unit. Most image editing software show these coordinates down in the status bar at the bottom as you drap your selection triangle.
This is often more of an art-form than a science since our units are rarely square. Try not to include too much background area in your click region, or it can get hard to select overlapping units.
A sample is included.
This is one of the most time-consuming steps if you have to go back and do it later, so I suggest doing this while you still have the unit in your image editor. Just create a text file and save the the click region coordinates for each unit as you go.
If you purchase a case of 12 you will not get a full set, you will get about half. Their cases are prepacked with the same miniatures in 2 different cases. So you would require 2 cases to get a full set of rares, however, there is no way of telling which cases you are purchasing as they are not marked.
A successful defensive-fire attack disrupts the target. Since disrupted untis can’t move, this
normally ends that unit’s movement. Grizzled Veteran ignore face up, so it can move.
If you are playing with Lethal Defensive Fire is another history.
I’ll second Andy above. HBG has some great pieces and they paint up really well because of the detail. Good source for OOB pieces as well. Their Fw-190’s are a bit smaller than the OOB versions, but everything else I’ve gotten from them has been great. Especially the Hellcats, Vals, and Stuka G’s.
They come pre-painted and ready to rock but feel free to paint away. All expansion pieces come painted as well. Easy game to learn but made to play as a stand alone game, not recomended for the board games. Although you can use the infantry pieces.
I know playing the board games is widely popular here but I’m wondering if I could spark some interest in play minis via a tool like VASSAL. We have the dice roller and the dice bot on the new forum is almost done. All we would need is a tool and some interest. Maybe a tournament?
Sure. The best online retailer for this sort of thing is Historical Board Gaming. go there and you will find every piece to almost every AA board game, even some Anniversary pieces. Of course, Ebay is a good way to acquire pieces as well.
The Polish Calvalryman is a nice touch to the game. Thay will be easy to use in groups of 3 or 4 against soldiers. Im thinking the best way to use them will be to hide and rush machine gun nests.
Not just machine gun nests but also for going after BAR Gunners, anti-tank guns, and commanders. But I really don’t think you need more than 1 or 2 to accomplish this. It is very easy for the cavalry out of line of sight.
Wehrmacht Expert Sniper says,
â€œCrack Shot â€” This unit gets +1 on each attack die.
Superior Camouflage â€” While this unit has cover, enemy units canâ€™t attack this unit at medium or long range.
Headshot â€” Once per game, instead of attacking a Vehicle, you may roll six attack dice. If you roll three or more successes, put a face-up Disrupted counter on that Vehicle. This counter isnâ€™t removed at the beginning of the next casualty phase.â€
Q: Does the Crack Shot ability apply to Headshot?
A: Yes. The Crack Shot ability modifies attack dice, so the Wehrmacht Expert Sniper rolls successes on a 3 or higher.
Q: Does â€œhave coverâ€ mean that the Sniper has to succeed at a cover roll to get the Superior Camouflage ability?
A: No. A unit â€œhas coverâ€ just by being in hex filled with defensive terrain. This means that a Sniper with Superior Camouflage canâ€™t be attacked directly at medium or long range while itâ€™s in a forest, hill, marsh, or town hex.
I continue to experiment on how best to use those big point tanks….
One thing I have discovered as a bad tactic is “hiding” the tank behind cover (behind a blocking hex) and then trying to spring it on other tanks or infantry. This almost always ends up with my tank getting charged and cornered, because I had blocked my own LOS… and the opposing tanks could get close to me without drawing fire.
I think tanks are best out in the open… on a hill…with a big field of fire to deter opposing units-- and then at the end of the game if need be parking it on the objective… (for tanks with strong rear defense against close assaults).
p.s On a side note-- I am beginning to hate the SS-Panzergrenadier. Only when I am shooting at it, of course.
A few of my friends and i decided that in world war 2 the artillery pieces were moveable. The conclusion that we came to was that if a tank or half track were to pull the artillery piece, you would have to roll a die to determine whether the tank could carry the piece. On a one two or three the tank didnt have enough strength. One disadvantage that we made was that the vehicle lost 1 speed to compensate for the weight of the piece. Another disadvantage is that it counts as two pieces and if the tank is destroyed while pulling it then the piece is also destroyed. when the tank is pulling the piece and both are in a hex, they count as one unit. Let me know what u guys think and if u have any better ideas. -PEACE