Question about Disruption…

I believe that was the new starter, after they re-released the set with a consistent (and larger) vehicle scale.  There has since been several releases for the various theaters, and WotC relased new revised unit stats on PDF as well.

Mot

I actually get it now. Thanks Ducky!…and MOTCD  :-)

Well, as long as you know the rules it really only matters that your opponent agrees with you.  I take liberties with the rules all the time.  I used to deploy in the first two with the old maps, because I like the “movement to fire” part of the game.

That’s great info, thanks everyone!

Max and I played through a short game tonight. It was only when I played solo after he hit the hay, that I really grasped the rules. It’s actually a nice blend of skirmish and area style games. Positioning is oh so important. When I rush in I get slaughtered ‘cause I don’t realize how much damage those tiny pieces of plastic are capable of. I’m lovin’ it so far!

Units don’t block line of sight. When attacking you have to declare a (valid) target unit. Only units with blast will attack every non-aircraft in the hex.

“On a sucessful cover roll, can the attacker resume his attack with the effected unit?”

I’m not sure what you mean.

Attacks go as follows:
Attack declares target and rolls appropriate dice, counting successes for hits, etc.
If the defender is in cover and takes hits he does a cover roll; on a 4+ THAT attack is limited to disruption.
Procced to the next unit.

1. On stacking limits in a two player game you’re correct - 4 Units total. Only 2 units per player, and only 1 of the 4 can be a vehicle (whether it’s a Jeep or a King Tiger doesn’t matter). However in multiplayer games it may work a bit differently.

2. Units never block line of sight.

3. Hills are basically no different from forests - they don’t give you any extra vision on their own (though some units can benefit from them because of SAs, like the Nashorn); the only difference is vehicles have to make a movement roll into the forest. That’s it. AH/WotC kept the rules fairly simple so no extra LOS mechanics.

4. You can move into a hex with an enemy unit, but doing so provokes defencive fire, as GrimJesta states. However remember disrupted units can’t defencive fire either. Defencive Fire is provoked if a unit moves from an adjacent hex to another adjacent hex (note moving out of an adjacent hex does not provoke defencive fire). The defencive firing unit can decide which hex to make the attack in. Roll the attack normally, but if you would score 1+ hits you simply cause an immediate disruption instead, causing the provoking unit to stop in that hex and end its movement.  If the hex the provoking unit is being attacked in provides cover, then the unit rolls; if successful then the provoking unit isn’t disrupted and continues on. Each unit can make one defencive fire attack per phase, so a standard tactic is to move in first with a less threatening unit to draw fire.

5. You can’t die from defencive fire unless it was caused by a flamethrower; the three 6’s effect still applies. Except for units which are immediately destroyed (death by flamethrower, or a Carro Armato going up) the effects of damaged/destroyed/etc aren’t applied until the casualty phase after both players have made their attacks.

Also, how long do the games run?
The AH site says 30-90 minutes, but for what size battle is that?

If you don’t count the time to formulate your armies, games rarely last only 30 minutes. 30 minutes is usually for a scenario that gets you into the action right away. Tournament games usually last between 60 and 90 minutes. Recreational games can last up to 2 hours if you’re taking your time. You’re first few games will probably last 2 hours.

Not for what point total he wants to play. It’s usually 45 minutes-1 hour/ 100 points you do. At 250 point armies, which is reaching the limit for point totals maintaining game balance (post 300 you’ll see huge balance issues), expect to play and hour and a half- 2 hours, maybe more in the beginning as you learn the rules. It also depends on the scenario you’re playing.

@Garfunkle:

What size is the standard playing surface?

Well, normally it’s the 2x2 maps they give you. But you won’t be able to play on that surface with the point totals you want to do. You’ll need at least one more starter set to have the ability to play on 4x2 maps or 3x3. Hell, I sometimes consider getting a third starter set for even more maps, as sometimes I feel like 4x2 isn’t big enough. I play 150-200 point battles.

@Garfunkle:

Is there good after market support for terrain and miniatures?

The terrain are maps that come with the game. Some people eventually play using 3-d terrain, but then you have to either play using houserules, or go out and buy hex-terrain, which is a whole new set of expenses.

@Garfunkle:

What scale is 15 mm anyway?

Basically 1:120. It’s more like 1:121, but 1:120 is the accepted number for buying terrain for the game.

@Garfunkle:

Are these plastic minis easy to mod and repaint?

Yes.

@Garfunkle:

I would like to have the ability to field a 250 point army

That’s like fielding a 6,000 point army in Warhammer: it’s really big and might make the game take longer than you want. Before making any army goals, play the game a few times. Having a crapload of miniatures to choose from for army building is sweet, but actually fielding 250 points might be hefty for you, since you mentioned that your kids impede gaming somewhat. 150 points is usually big enough to have alot of fun and see lots of units, but small enough that the game doesn’t last forever.

Welcome aboard. May you make every cover save and ignore enemy Superior Armor… :)

-=Grim=-

wow that map links usefull  :wink: