I ordered a yellow set of casino precision dice and they just arrived. They look beautiful, just like the red and blue dice. Deep color. However these yellow dice are a bit on the orange side, only slightly. Doesn’t bother me, but it’s more of a deep amber yellow than it is a lemonade yellow.
Only colors I have yet to get are the green and purple dice. I’ll probably get a set of each of those soon because I gotta say these casino dice are working out really well, and I like rolling big rolls!
I just received my order. I happen to have an AAG40 game underway right now, and it’s in the middle of turn 7. So my plan is to try and incorporate these 4 expansions into the current game. I’m going to have the US start research on nukes immediately. Japan and Germany are really dominating this game though, so I don’t know if the US can get any nukes ready in time. If not, then I’ll try again next game.
I’m also going to have the US build some Marines so I can use that expansion set too and hopefully push the Japanese back across the Pacific.
But Germany and Japan are also going to start building the P170 jet and Super Yamato respectively, which should give the Allies second thoughts. Oh, the drama! Can’t wait to see how these expansions affect the war!
I ain’t trying to advertise for anybody, but GSE sells red, blue, green, yellow, and purple 19mm precision serialized casino dice on Ebay and Amazon.
Oh cool, I’ll check out the JU87 tank killer! I haven’t considered painting pieces like in the detailed way that others have. However, I bought the Super Yamato in white, so I’m going to have to rattle can it with pumpkin orange.
I built a few Estes models when I was younger and I sucked at painting detail, I could barely even place a decal decently. Some of the custom detail paintjobs in this forum set the bar very high in my mind, and I don’t know if I could paint my own pieces nearly that well.
Combat movement, combat, and noncombat movement are done simultaneously and in unison for UK Europe and UK Pacific. You can move Europe pieces to the Pacific side and vice-versa. Europe and Pacific UK units can attack together in the same battles. You also share technology between UK Europe and UK Pacific.
The only separation between UK Europe and UK Pacific is when you are buying units, mobilizing units, and collecting income. UK Europe spends money only on units that will be mobilized in UK Europe factories, and UK Pacific spends money only on units that will be mobilized in UK Pacific factories. Also remember that when you are playing the AA Global 1940 game, West India is counted as a UK Pacific territory and its income is given to the UK Pacific side. That’s the only UK territory on the European map that is counted as a UK Pacific territory when playing the Global game.
Mods, if this is in the wrong subforum please move it.
I noticed that HBG has various GW1936 expansions that are AAG40 compatible. I just bought several. Specifically I bought the Going Nuclear, US Marines, Super Yamato, and BV P170 Fast Bomber expansions.
Has anyone else tried these or other expansions with their AAG40 games? What are your thoughts on them? Are there any expansions you’d recommend that I didn’t mention above?
One expansion I’d like to figure out how to include in an AAG40 game is the HBG Atlantis expansion. That one just looks like a lot of fun! Sadly the Atlantis expansion doesn’t come with AAG40 compatible rules so if I were to incorporate it I’d have to adapt the rules myself somehow.
I’ll report back on the expansions once I receive them and play a game or two with them. One concern I have is that the Going Nuclear rules require 4 turns of successful tech rolls to develop the bombs. I don’t tend to have lucky dice rolls so I’m worried that I’ll even be able to develop the nukes before the game ends. We will see how that goes. I might consider either shortening the development cycle or lowering the tech roll requirements if I am unable to build the weapons in time using the HBG rules.
I gotta say that discovering the Axis and Allies dot org forum has caused me to bleed a lot of money into AA games. I already had AA Classic and AA50, but since finding this place I’ve bought 2 sets of AAZ, bought AAG40, and bought a ton of addons and upgrades, including extra pieces, extra chips, 3D printed factories, acrylic markers, casino dice, dice trays and dice cups, and play money. I’m not exactly complaining, I mean if I didn’t want to spend the money I wouldn’t. It’s just funny… I thought wargaming would be a cheaper hobby than my car racing but I might have been wrong on that prediction!
My set of 19mm precision serialized casino dice arrived a couple days ago and I’ve been playing with them. They do seem to roll more randomly than the cheap 16mm dice (not oob) I was using previously. They are also quite beautiful. I got a set of red and a set of blue. The red is a strong ruby and the blue is a deep sapphire. I’m thinking of getting a yellow set next.
I have a good quality felt board and dice cups to roll with. I get good rolls with these tools but the sharp edged 19mm casino dice definitely don’t roll as readily as the round edged 16mm dice do. So you gotta give them an assertive shake and throw.
I wouldn’t recommend using sharp edged 19mm casino dice directly on a printed gameboard because the sharp corners really could cause damage. A dedicated rolling surface and large dice cup help get a confident and satisfying roll with these babies.
I think I’m going to demote my 16mm cheap dice to nonwargaming duties. I’m going to stock up on more 19mm casino dice so that I can roll big stack battles for my AA games all at once. This will allow me to retain the fun of a tactile, physical dice roll (no computer number generators) and feel confident that I’m getting random results.
@CWO-Marc said in My trouble with dice - and are casino dice the answer?:
I don’t use casino precision dice, but in case this option might be useful to you note that there’s another type of precision dice which might be more suitable for A&A: precision backgammon dice. They’re smaller and they have rounded edges/corners, which makes them less destructive if they land on the game map (which can happen even when you’re using a dice tray, if you get a bad bounce).
I looked at backgammon precision dice, and they look good, but they cost even more than the casino dice. I might give the backgammon dice a try though if I end up not liking the sharp edged casino dice.
@djensen Yeah I looked carefully and couldn’t find a better place to post this than in this room. And I agree computer dice are no fun when doing physical boardgaming. I don’t mind computer dice when playing computer games 
AA games don’t come with enough dice to roll epic sized battles in one throw. So I bought one of those 100 packs of 16mm dice on Ebay, 10 colors of 10 dice each. After a bunch of games and a bunch of throws I got the feeling that these dice aren’t so random. I have a felt-lined dice rolling tray and these dice seem to be very favorable to landing on 4, 5, and 6. After noticing this, I did a bunch of rolls comparing my Ebay dice to the oob AA dice and found the AA dice to be marginally better.
To resolve this problem I first considered using computer dice on my phone or laptop but it wasn’t as satisfying. I tried it but quickly decided I didn’t like it, because it doesn’t have that tactile, visceral feel that draws me to physical boardgames in the first place.
So tonight I resigned to buying some 19mm foil-wrapped and serialized casino dice from GSE. They should arrive in a few days. I’m hoping for a more random performance from these casino dice. They are much more expensive and come in packs of 5 so I bought a couple packs and if they work well then I guess I’ll get some more.
What does everyone here use?
I see lots of oob dice usage in AA games on YouTube. Are you satisfied with the performance of the oob dice? Do you source dice from other places?
Does anyone here use casino dice, and what are your thoughts on their performance?
Does anyone here prefer to use computer dice when doing IRL physical AA boardgames?
