War Room: One game to buy. Everything you need is in the box unless you want the Jumbo pack expansion. You need a large round table for the map and another medium to large table for cards, pieces, battle boards and to roll dice. One game can be played in a single day once you have a good grasp of the rules.
G40: You have to buy both AA Pacific and AA Europe games to combine them. You can play with what’s in the box, but there are a lot of nice third-party (i.e. HBG) upgrades to customize your game, make everything look better and replace the out-of-box cardboard pieces (plastic factories, ports and airbases, damage markers, etc.). You need a large rectangle table to play. Can be played in a long day with experienced players who know when to give up.
GM36: No two boards are alike. You buy the map from HBG and then customize everything, from units to facilites, according to your own taste. It helps if you have a lot of other AA games to scavenge for pieces, chips and markers, but buying everthing will get expensive. Obsessive-compulsive types beware! Not all models and colors of units are available so painting pieces seems inevitable. Depending on the size of the map you buy (there are three, going up to 5x10) you will need a large room and and a very large table. The setup alone takes at least an hour and needs to stay in place for a long time since you can’t finish a game in a single day, so this is not a game for the kitchen table… But once you graduate from G40 to this, you will not go back.
how do you keep track of the NO’s, and how do you keep track of the income from them, do you include it on the IPC chart?
In the 1941 setup for example, the USA gets 40 ipcâ€¦.they also have automatically completed a NO bye controlling the usa…so would you mark 40 or 45 om the ipc chart?
The IPC chart is a tool to help determine one’s IPCs they will collect at the end of their turn. These are always in play (part of the base rules). National Objectives are an optional rule, and are not tracked via the IPC chart. You simply determine which NO bonus you have achieved and add those extra IPCs to your IPCs from the chart to get your IPCs awarded/collected at turns end. Add this to whatever unspent IPCs that you have remaining, and now you know your total you can spend the next turn.
I too have been searching for answers but in a simple sub vs. sub context. Manual, pg 18,“Step 2, General Combat…both attacking and defending submarines can choose to either make a Surprise Strike or Submerge…”,pg 30,“Submarines, Special Abilities, Submersible:…The decision is made before any dice are rolled by either side (the attacker decides first) and takes effect immediately.”, this is reasserted on pg 4 of the March 2009 FAQ, “Submarines Q. Exactly when is the decision made whether or not to submerge submarines? A. The decision whether to submerge submarines is made before any dice are rolled by either side in an exchange of fire , and the subs submerge immediately. The attacker decides before the defender.”. “Decides” does not equate to “attacks”.
BGG Axis and Allies Anniversary Edition, Forum, Rules, Sept, 2009, “Can a submarine ever be attacked without a destroyer present because of the ability to submerge first”. Kevin Chapman ( Patron) answers,“…so a sub can only attack another sub if the defender chooses to fight (or there is an attacking destroyer)”.
BGG (as above), in " subs vs other naval units", has other useful comments by Kevin Chapman and Don Moody on this subject.
I like the imagery of this implementation. A lone sub,or two causing isolated mayhem before sinking into the depths or just driving for their pens, until, at the slightest indication of an attack,“Dive, dive dive”. What is wrong with that…until a destroyer turns them from buccaneers of the sea into desperate survivors hoping only to escape!.
Was there a question in there somewhere? You initially said you were searching for answers but never really asked any question(s). Just trying to end your search for answers
42 will give you more of the “typical” A&A scenario (Germany starts deep in Russia, Japan is at its historical apex, etc.).
41 will give you a new experience, where the Axis haven’t really started expanding yet, but are tremendously strong compared to the Allies.
If you’re all around the same skill level, play 42. If you have a mix of stronger and poorer players, play 41 with Objectives Off and have the stronger players take the Axis. Axis are stronger in AA50 but harder to play, so the learning curve should be enough to keep the stronger players on their toes.
artillery attack on a 2 inf on a 1. If you have an artillery and a inf both attacking the inf gets boosted to 2. 1 arty can only boost 1 inf
Inf and arty defend at 2 by themselves. Inf are cheaper. You need inf for defense as well as for the attack bonus. You also need inf for cannon fodder and blockers.
Once you get some arty just buy inf to replace your losses and try and maintain a 1:1 ratio. If on defense you probably want more of a 2:1 or even 3:1 ratio. Depends on your situation. If you’re really under pressure a lot of people will go all inf for max defense.
I’ve always liked to be able to do small counterattacks when possible though. It’s nice to have a couple planes so you can at least do some minor counterattacks.
Best thing is to set it up and give it a go : )
you might want to read through the after action reports a couple threads above you. probably some good info there for ya
i see, so if i buy 6 researchers, they will still only produce 1 break through. and I will be able to roll all 5 every round until i get a breakthrough. Once i get that one breakthrough, all researchers are discarded….
If you buy 6 research tokens and succeed with at least one die, all 6 tokens will be discarded, and you roll for one breakthrough.