Speed 6 Soldiers 10/15/20
Defense 9/9 Vehicles 25/22/20
Advanced Camouflage – Cover rolls succeed at 6 or less.
Extended Range – Units long-range attack is 30 hexes.
Turbine Engine – Unit may make a second move after Combat is conducted.
105mm Quad Main Gun – Unit may make 4 attacks in each combat round.
Molten Metal Hyper Cannon – Unit may attack any number of units in a strait line.
Fear of God – All enemy units within 10 hexes of this Unit immediately surrender.
The Liger Tank was a project nearing completion at wars end. It was named for the mythical animal breed for it’s magical abilities. The Liger Tank was Hitler’s last secret weapon and destined to change the outcome of the war. The project was so secret however that the armored division ear-marked to take the tanks into battle was not allowed to know the location of the factory and therefore the tanks never made it into combat.
Looks like an interesting unit. Do you have a link I can use to learn more about this tank? I tried a Google search, and the first result was your post!
I’ve thought about this myself. If you’re fighting some minor back-and-forth land battle, or sending some aircraft to sink a stray enemy ship, you don’t want to break out the miniatures for stuff like that. But if there’s an epic land or sea battle, then that’s exactly the time to break out the miniatures!
Maybe there could be a house rule about this. If each side in a battle has at least 100 TUV present, then miniatures are used. Otherwise, the battle is resolved without them. (TUV = total unit value. If I have 12 IPCs’ worth of infantry and 20 IPCs worth of tanks in a battle, my TUV present is 12 + 20 = 32.)
When miniatures are being used, I think that it makes sense to give three miniatures points for every one point of TUV. Also, that TUV shouldn’t be regarded as a lump sum, but should be divided into categories: escort ships, capital ships, carriers, subs, fighters, etc. I wouldn’t object if a few leftover points were used on out-of-category units. For example, let’s say I have 50 points to spend on capital ships; but the capital ship I intend to buy costs 48 points. That gives me two leftover points which can be transferred to something out of category. When building my force, I should be allowed to spend no more than 15 points out of category.
These are thoughts which occur to me off the top of my head. I’d be interested to hear more from those who have thought more deeply about this; or who have field tested it.
‘Initiative’ bonuses go toward the dice roll at the beginning of each turn that determines who goes first.
By definition, ‘each player adds the best initiative bonus of any Commander in his or her army’. I’m guessing that irrespective of type of unit (foot soldier, cavalry or armor unit), the highest initiative bonus (assuming you have more than one commander) is added to the dice rolls at the beginning of each turn.
Hope this helps
Well, I just found out about the revised cards sets on avalonhill.com. Combined with the expanded rules I just received, there’s no need for house rules anymore.
Seems to me that they listened a lot to the players, much better than what the game was originally.
I believe they took some inspiration out of HHR too, great !
Wow It sounds lovely and I really have no idea on the sand. The glue may work. Are you thinking of mixing some sand in with glue and painting it on? Im wondering if you would have to seal it with something.
I went to a hobby shop and found some that were intended for train models.
i think that a unit with more than one premium weapon should have an extra set of stat’s on the card, the same as some of the multi-turret tank’s, an ability similar to the “shrapnel” ability could be devised for the panzerfaust against infantry, i think rolling 3 dice would vastly increase the chance of disruption, while not going to overkill
thanks for the info, yeah i like the idea of paratroopers being able to deploy on any turn, it add’s some more strategy for both players,i think.
dont know if i’d like the idea of them being attacked by anti air fire, that might limit them too much,altough it could be interesting too.
thanks again for the reply.
It’s getting dark now, (I work on it im ny shop) I’ll take one tomarrow.
Was thinking of doing a lot more home work on operation market garden and making it more realistic. Granted I can’t make it all that real b/c there were three allied ABN Divisions plus XXX Corp how many points would that be? But I’m open to any input I’ll make a new topic in the WWII history section for any sugestions.
Another Question: Can Vehicles make defensive fire attacks?Â :?
Vehicles can make Defencive-Fire (DF) attacks, but only against other vehicles. Some units, such as the much maligned Italian M13/40 have an ability that allows them to DF vs infantry but this is far from the norm.
to @djensen @Panther @redrum . You all have put a lot of work into the transition. @simon33 has been helpful with his comments as well.
And thank you to everyone else helping out with the change.
It may take a while to get used to the new program, but it’s gonna work just fine : )
@JustLuthor I have the True Neutral Lid done (All true neutrals and mongolia). I’ll work on the other one soon. Let me know if you need the sides of the box too. The colors may not be fully match with out of game box if printed out.
True Neutral Box
@Midnight_Reaper said in 20 Years of Axis & Allies .org:
@CWO-Marc As for what we did and did not have back in 2000, I made a small chart
Great chart, Midnight Reaper; it brings back lots of memories. A further point to note is that, in Classic, only the infantry sculpt was nation-specific and was based on authentic WWII designs; the equipment sculpts started following the same design principle with Europe / Pacific / Revised, though it took a long while to achieve (by combining E1940.2, P1940.2 and 1941) a full array for everyone except France. We were also treated to some neat special-category sculpts: the German blockhouses in D-Day, the American and German trucks in Bulge, and the entirely-other-war sculpt set of 1914. Another nice development in the official games has been the addition of China, Italy, ANZAC and France to the original five powers (US, UK, USSR, Germany and Japan). And in the early days, people who wanted extra types of units (or extra colours to represent other countries) had to make do with third-party products like the Xeno and Table Tactics ones or the Enemy on the Horizon expansion set, the quality of which was uneven and the availability of which wasn’t always great. Things certainly have changed.
@Imperious-Leader said in Axis & Brollies : Action Cards and Event Cards:
you should set it up with card decks made at “Artscow” or something like it in terms of name. They are sold as long as you set up account and you will earn a bit of change
www.makeplayingcards.com was recently (2019) used successfully by siredblood to produce his “Blood Bath” A&A version card deck - at a resulting fair price for consumers
drivethrucards.com was recently (2018) used successfully by Young Grasshopper to produce his co-deck “Omaha” and “Utah” cards for A&A G’40 - at an absolute steal of a deal for consumers
If you have not already done so, please consider selling your deck(s) at either or both sites - I would love to see you get paid for your work.