@CWO:
Seriously, someone had this and didn’t even open the box???
Perhaps they bought it for investment purposes, with the intention of re-selling later at a handsome profit.
And then sold it for less than its original price point … hmm.
Yeah, it happens that some people got it and don’t play it. I know it’s very hard to believe but not everyone is in love with A&A (I know right? How’s that possible??)
Whoever got this stole it at that price! Watch it show up on ebay for $500 now.
@CWO:
Great work. One of the things I always find intriguing about painted pieces is how (to my eyes anyway) they seem to look bigger than unpainted ones. I don’t know if I’m the only person who runs into this optical illusion.
I’ve not noticed that myself, but then again I don’t usually have painted and unpainted beside each other. Or you could just be crazy! ;)
OP : Nice job … Using decals for the emblems is definately the way to go imo. It’s just not feasable to try and do that many tiny straight lines for the most part. I know that I had a lot of trouble trying to freehand iron crosses (and get them all to look “right”), let alone any of the other national symbols.
After building my AA50 table and a portable wargaming table, I think I’m tabled out (and let’s face it, I just don’t have any more room for tables in my already cramped household) but I did love making them.
After painting my entire AA50th set + a Spring 1942 set of pieces, I’d be more than willing to do more if the need arose.
Right now I’m more into Wargaming terrain and miniatures though. There’s enough there to keep me pretty busy!
Looks great! I especially like that it’s small and specific instead of the typical Global tables we’re seeing everyone make.
I think you have to get from ‘New Conscript’ to ‘Infantry’ on here before you can do that, but I could be wrong…
Yes. 10 posts I think?
Send someone the link and we can put it in for you.
In general with any small, slightly warped plastics, warming them up in nearly boiling water, straightening them (GENTLY) by hand and then immediately dunking them in ice water is the best method. You need to dunk them in the ice water to cool them as fast as possible for it to hold the shape properly.
However, if the warp is huge, this may take several attempts to get it to go back to straight (only straighten a little bit at a time to avoid snapping the plastic)
Can we at least have the tank tow an old couch or something that we can ride on as well? Riding on the actual tank is going to require a lottery system because it’s going to be one oversubscribed event!
That would be hilarious! What I wouldnt give to see that.
I’m going to imagine the tank rides (if possible) will be a paid thing as well.
can we shoot the gun?
They tried to get the permits together to fire the gun at last years event but it was a no go (just imagine the red tape required to fire a round from the tank, even if it’s a blank, next to an Airport AND a residential neighbourhood. Now multiply that red-tape by over 9000!). It would be very cool though.
Maybe we can get a display of more than just the Sherman and a couple of trucks? Then again, all of this also costs money which FMG put out last year. I can’t remember the actual cost but it’s not cheap.
I used these in my last game,
Great Addition to a real fan’s table!
Glad you liked them! Still in stock (and we’re going to re-order any time we start to get low so they will ALWAYS (hopefully) be in stock)!
I read this the day AFTER I had placed an order on the FMG website. I will remain a loyal customer and I hope everything works out for you and the entire company. But, I am now curious as to how long I will have to wait. Is there a delay with other items such as IPCs and neutral color armies or is it just the Germany army?
The delay is with the German A&A units. The rest of the items, if they are listed as in stock, are in stock and they are usually shipped out within the week. There have, of course, been a few fulfillment issues over the past several months but I’m pretty sure Jeremy is working on rectifying that.
@Most:
We’re a pretty scummy lot. More interested in something closer than where we were. On Mapquest the Best Western looked like walking distance.
Hah, I told you it was nowhere near walking distance. ;)
Unfortunately that’s the closest hotel/motel accommodations to the hall. If the event gets any bigger and has to move out of the RCAF Hall then it may very well end up at somewhere like the Best Western conference room instead (in which case you could stumble to your room easily enough).
Nice mix of units and great paint jobs Maofactor! kudos!
I like the mix of Fallschirmjager and SS troops for Germany most I think.
I’m pretty sure the initial reasoning behind not taking transports as casualties was the ability to have ONE battleship (at 24 IPC’s) and a dozen transports (mostly empty) in order to soak up hits on the cheap. Essentially they were being used as a shield for your expensive, powerful naval pieces.
And being a defensless non-combat unit it really doesn’t make sense for them to be used in a combat role (imho).
Most likely yes. It’s in testing and refinement at the moment. I’ve seen the setup gone through a dozen itterations in FMG’s games bunker in recent weeks.
So I imagine it will be “finish internal testing, run blind testing, refine, run blind testing, hope it’s ready, publish”. That could easily take a year +/- so to have it out by 2014 is realistic.
Very nice job Swedo! I like how clean and crisp the lines look on them all.
Swedo what do you do to prep your sculpts? All I hear is pime, prime, and prime.
Do you get any chipping? What do you use to seal?
My suggestions, for what it’s worth;
Wash them to get rid of any mould release agent still on them (or any greases/oils at all from handling)
(This will allow the primer and paint to STICK properly, otherwise you may (or may not) find some peeling off)
Prime them - Black or white doesn’t matter, just use primer for a great painting surface.
Paint them - Acrylics or Enamels, the choice is yours. I use cheap craft acrylics because they’re cheap, come in a multitude of colours, are easy to find, easy to use and dry quickly.
Seal them - Use a clear coat of some sort to seal them. For A&A pieces I tend to use a “Satin” finish acrylic spray clear coat. Do at least 2 light coats (heavy coats tend to make unsightly blobs). This will add durability and protect your hard work from chipping or scratching off during use.
The same weekend as this years was on would probably be best. Try to keep some consistancy.
Iwillnevergrowup.com has a LOT of things to bring to this in 2013 too;
Rules of Engagement table (Maybe a bit smaller than last year) or TWO
Warhammer 40k table or two
Angels 20 table
(and all of our terrain, miniatures, rulebooks, etc)
Axis and Allies Anniversary Edition table again (my custom/topographical table)
And A&A Industrial Production Chips! (Hopefully some other product as well)
Get yourself some tiny Rare Earth magnets off ebay (I bought 100 3mm x 1mm magnets for $1.50 shipping included from China). These things will attract each other from about 1-2 inches apart and they’re super small.
Drill a couple small holes in the bottoms of your carriers. Try to get near the landing pad but not go through it. Place a magnet inside the hole (using superglue to get it to stick). Alternatly you can drill a hole in the top for the magnet to go into and fill it with some sort of epoxy filler and paint over.
Drill a small hole in the bottom of your aircraft and place a magnet in that hole with superglue.
Super magnetized aircraft/carriers!
Just one word of warning … make sure you have the polarity correct on them! If they’re reversed you’ll end up with fighters that just want to fly away from the carrier instead of landing on it!
I’ll be corrected if I’m wrong but from my understanding;
A sub gets a “surprise strike”. This attack takes place before any other combat is rolled, and subs on BOTH sides (attacker AND defender) roll surprise strikes. Casualties are removed from the board immediately. This happens each and every combat turn.
Your sub can choose to EITHER surprise strike OR submerge (if no enemy destroyers are present) but not both in the same round of combat. This happens each and every combat turn.
The sub does not get a surprise strike on the enemies turn. If they end their movement in your sea zone however you can attack on your combat turn.
I don’t imagine they’ll produce a (more) rounded set of dice. You have to figure each set of dice (each color/graphic) they have a minimum order quantity of 10,000 dice … that’d be a big outlay for just a slight variation on an existing product.
Here’s the link to Major Taylor’s Flickr:
That is absolutely beautiful insanity happening right there. Two thumbs up for sure!!