Axis assult groups what do you use ?/ DP NL

I like to get into the big games (so far at 1800 points each, heavy on the armour and 700 when infantry heavy).  I love the look of 3 D boards and build my own from styrofoam.

When you get that big, you need umpires who are really into the rules and who can keep the game on task.  Each player really can’t effectively fight more that 15 pieces and fewer is better unless there are all the same model.  Otherwise knowing their special abilities is tough to keep up with.  I have seen all sorts of games lost by those who have not employed the abilities properly.

With multiple players have the teams send up their players in some sort of order and have a designated die roller.  It keeps it faster.  Also, no thinking when its your turn to move or assault.  All that needs to be done ahead of time.

Have fun!  Where are you, can we join in?

Let me know how 40K people take to this.  I’ve a club on my campus (Trent U. in Peterborough Ontario)that I’m unsure of how to break into with this game.

Agreed.  The correctly-costed one doesnt have the ribbon.

Has anybody done like a POW camp rescue mission scenario? If so, what pieces did you use?

Bought a contested sky booster yesterday and I’d call what I got a carpark pull.

I got a Puma (which I allready love, despite not having played it yet)

… a Katusya (how do you use this whitout a spotter? 1/1 defence!)

and that japanese armored car (which is either off-scale or was freaking huge in real)

This was my first contested sky booster so no double’s or tripples or quadrippels (I bought about 6 base pack boosters and now I’ve got five 6-pounders… :S )

For 8 more points, instead of a Tiger I, you can use a King Tiger.  It doesnt dwarf the Tiger I, but it looks scary on the battlefield and the stats are scary too, so id use it for psychological warfare.  You know……make them crap their pants.  :lol:

Definitely go with 2 starter sets a few boosters if possible.  I would try and stick with the base set until you’re happy with the quantity of pieces you have.  Infantry can be more effective for you when you have units in quantity to choose from.  I’ve been playing Axis & Allies for almost 20 years and find this version most enjoyable.  I could never get into those war games that come with a book and pieces of paper for pieces, nor did I have the patience for painting GHQ miniatures.  I find Axis & Allies Miniatures to be a  compromise that fits for those who feel the same as I do, but want more detail in Axis & Allies itself.

So back to the German/Chinese issue.

I read the Set II Checklist again and it specifically points out that giving a Chinese army the sdkfz 222 is for scenario play. I think this is just a general rule of thumb for scenarios: if country X had unit Y but unit Y belongs to country Z, just use it in your scenario as country X anyway.

That’s the beauty of this game.

I’m going to start a new thread about Sino-German relations.

@Ubermarine:

The Polish Calvalryman is a nice touch to the game.  Thay will be easy to use in groups of 3 or 4 against soldiers.  Im thinking the best way to use them will be to hide and rush machine gun nests.

Not just machine gun nests but also for going after BAR Gunners, anti-tank guns, and commanders. But I really don’t think you need more than 1 or 2 to accomplish this. It is very easy for the cavalry out of line of sight.