Don’t waste your money on starters just to get extra maps. Read my post about Memoir 44.
Latest posts made by Malachite
RE: 1 starter + 1 booster enuff to play?
I split a case of set 1 and set 2 with a friend and I feel I have barely enough to make an acceptable army for the main nationalities. You could print out the stats of the units you need and use proxy units on the battlefield.
RE: How much actual area does a hex represent?
Even when I was in top shape I think I would have gotten winded after the first 200 meters, especially if I was carrying gear and a firearm. Units would move semi-cautiously even when in a hurry. I still don’t see it as being realistic, but sometimes you have to sacrifice reality to gain better game mechanics.
Memoir 44…your gameboard solution
The game system Memoir 44 by Days of Wonder makes the perfect customizable gameboard for a reasonable price. http://www.memoir44.com/?t=content&sub=expansion&rid=&S=c5ac59eb0787994f21593f47ea2cdf88
You all know what to do with the hill, forest, town, roads, rivers, and clear hexes. I propose the following house rules for the other terrain hexes and pieces. I wouldl like to hear your feedback, suggestions, and experiences.
Hedgerow hex: Provides cover. Blocks line of sight. Vehicles don’t have to make movement rolls to enter.
Bridge piece: Treat as clear terrain, but if an armor unit is disabled or destroyed on it, it blocks other armor units from entering the hex.
Barbed wire piece: Infantry units cannot enter hex. Does not block line of sight or provide cover.
Hedgehog piece: (the 3 railroad beams welded together, often w/ explosives) Armor units cannot enter hex. Does not block line of sight or provide cover.
Bunker piece: Armor units cannot enter hex. Units inside bunker gain superior armor 2 and provides cover. The bonuses provided by the bunker are ignored against enemy units in same hex. (possibly immunity against mortar fire…opinions please)
Sandbags: Infantry units gain cover on a roll of 3 or better.
Minefields: I havn’t considered these yet. Possibly have them hidden and revealed when an enemy enters the hex, at which point it could have a one time attack against that unit and every unit that enters the hex afterward.
Again, input would be appreciated.
RE: The Perfect Game Board
That lost battalion game says it uses 3" hexes, but I guess it can’t hurt having larger hexes. Battlecry is a civil war boardgame that utilizes the 2" hex board and terrain hexes, but the Memoir 44 system seems to be the best buy when you consider how much you get for the price. It also includes hedgerow terrain pieces that I’m not sure how to incorporate into the game yet, other than treat them as wooded hexes.
RE: Has anybody tried the scenarios?
I tried the one where the Japanese try to capture the humber car. We ran into many questions. The scenario calls for all spaces to be considered forest. So, we considered the road hexes to be forested at the same time (units got to roll for cover). The layout was very confusing. They showed victory point locations on the map, but the victory points and the capturing of the humber car had no bearing on the determination of the winner. The scenario also wasn’t clear on how to handle the revealing of the hidden japanese units.
I doesn’t feel like the scenario or even the A&A mini game itself was play tested very much. I hope for set 3 they make a new starter pack with revised rules.
RE: No Vehicle Defensive Fire??
It makes sense. Armored vehicles were noisy and had limited visibility. It was easier to sneak around a tank than an infantry squad. If nothing else, a squad had more eyes. Maybe the vehicles should be allowed to make defensive fire when the opposing unit has already fired on your unit or your unit has fired upon them (this would represent the armor unit being aware of that unit’s presence).
RE: 5 Hex Start Alternative
In reality, it was preferential to have infantry in front of the armor. In most historical cases, sending armor ahead of infantry resulted in the armor getting devastated by anti-tank fire. Being inside an armored vehicle, one couldn’t hear the enemy and certainly had a hard time seeing small units that were waiting to ambush.
Possible solution: It would be best if you were using a hex map with numbered hexes (like battletech). Both sides can write on paper where they are deploying their units. When a player wishes to move a unit, the unit is revealed starting in the hex it began in. If a player uses the unit to fire it is revealed. This way, if your opponent rushed armor onto the battlefield then they would suffer the risk of taking anti-tank fire from a very close range, and that would mimic reality. Perhaps enemy positions could be revealed when you’ve moved one of your units into an adjacent hex.
Ambushing is such a basic element of ground battle and I regret that it wasn’t included in the rules. I guess thats what house rules are for.
RE: Axis & Allies Miniatures Set 3: Contested Skies
I don’t see how planes can be incorporated into the game other than a brief strafing run or bombing. It will be interesting to see how they do it. If a tank can move 5 spaces in a turn then a plane would have to move like 50 in one turn. Its not like they could opt to move a few hexes or not at all or even turn on a dime. If the planes are to have dogfights at all, then its hard to imagine it taking place on anything except a seperate and scaled-down map, which would basically make it a seperate game and detract from the ground fight. If nothing else, they’ll be nice for collecting.
How much actual area does a hex represent?
Me and my friend have been trying to fine-tune some much needed house rules. Some of our decisions hinge upon knowing how much space does the hex represent. Looking at how many units can fit into a hex, we were thinking that a hex would represent 100 yards measuring from one flat end to the other, but then that would mean infantry are moving 100 yards a minute which doesn’t seem realistic. Has anyone made a decent determination as to the actual area a hex represents? In one case I destroyed one of his tanks while it was on a bridge. The rules call for destroyed units to be removed from the board, but I reasoned that the destroyed tank would block the path of the other tank attempting to cross. Some opinions on this would be appreciated.