Per @Midnight_Reaper’s request, I’m working on a USS Atlanta and an IJN Agano for Light Cruisers. The Atlanta has existing open-source examples; the Agano I’ll have to rebuild from bits and photos (all current models are pay-only).
Question for you: how did you get the “CUSTOMIZER” tab on your profile?
Marc has your answer pretty much there. The link kind of shows why, what, when ,where and who made this happen.
There are people here a lot better than me on a lot of subjects involving customization and HRs/game ideas, and I was surprised I even received it.
“Customizer” covers a lot and I’m sure in time others will be awarded this badge. For myself I nominated a few who really showed they were doing a lot for the game. Most notably “Most Holy” and “alllworkandnoclay” they both paint and Most Holy is the host of Dicestruction podcast. This to my knowledge is the only podcast which features Axis & Allies exclusively. These guys were just a couple whom I nominated. I asked a few people to move allworkandnoclay’s thread to customizations to help all those who paint and customize their units as a tool.
The credit for much of this goes to YoungGrasshopper who suggested the badge for Der Kuenstler initially, whom I also nominated for his war room and his HR work.
So, considering you are trying to make a full GHQ set, do you find the battleships, carriers, and heavy bombers (without stands) to be too large for the standard Global and/or Anniversary map?
Perhaps if I tactfully choose only a few large battleships and carriers and stuck mostly to the medium-smaller ones + support carriers.
I think with the bombers is were the real problem would be. In the average game there usually aren’t tons of carriers and battleships littered across the board so even though they’re a little big its doable. A big carrier like the Yorktown or the battleship Yamato or Bismark can easy be longer than an individual sea zone. The destroyer size is perfect and cruisers and smaller battleships fit nicely. The Yorktown for instance is a quarter longer than my middle finger so they’re close to 4 inches long. But I just finished the Japanese Escort carrier Ryujo and it’s honestly a great size (maybe more like 2.5 /inches). Tanks are perfect, mechanized infantry is just right, fighters are a tab bigger but good size. Bombers now can span more that a whole country. For instance the German HE-11 bomber has a wing span of about 2.5 / 3 inches. On the ground they would virtually take up all the space of say Western Germany. The magnet flight stands I use have a nail shaft to hold them up (they’re kinda heavy compared to plastic) and the pewter base I use is around the circumference of a quarter so the stands them selves still take up some room. As the gentleman noted as well the pieces are a bit heavier bit I like the solid feel they bring and they’re kinda tacky on the board which is cool. Regarding the bigger ships I’ve never been one for shying away for using task cards or zones. The big navies always use these anyways in my games so they’re not much of a problem. I’m also going to be to be using a bigger board soon so that will help with the pieces being on the bigger side. It’s just the tactical and heavy bombers that need to be lifted to make room for the pieces on the bottom.
@coedewa What specific questions about camo do you have?
Here is a process I provided earlier in the thread re: a German woodland camo for armor. I’ll reiterate that you want to go light to dark when applying colors.
The woodland camo is a 3 step process. First of all, I painted a dark khaki color, based off of a photograph or drawing. Then I painted a burnt sienna brown in stripes and an occasional “splotch”, to simulate the camo. Then I painted a dark forest green overlapping the brown, making sure to cover most of the piece. There are many different kinds of camo, but as a general rule, it looks better when it overlaps, when it’s not a predictable pattern (you don’t want parallel stripes running along the length of the piece :-)), and when you cover the entire piece, then paint details over it. This makes it look more authentic in my opinion.