the “bag o zombies” are about 1/4" larger than AAZ zombies.
this creates a space problem in smaller territories.
I was going to say they were from the old 1970’s MB games Tank Battle andan air one. I looked at my copy of each and found they were different. Must be from the remake. Not as good a game as the original as they messed with the rules. The board is basically an over sized checker board. Check BGG for tank battle for further information and the other games in the series. Had a lot of fun with them back in the day.
mixing colours can be hard.
Using the Quiller colour wheel is helpful.
He plotted artists colours on the colour wheel.
Orange needs a red with a warm/yellow bias and yellow with a warm/red bias.
A six colour primary colour wheel is a must if you want to mix secondary colours.
Remember this rule too. When mixing, always add the dark colour to the light one.
If you get too dark, make a new dish of light colour and add small amounts of the “too dark” colour to it.
Saves paint and you can use the left over “too dark” colour as shading.
I find spray paint primer a must for this work. Saves a lot of time.
I generally use black primer for the figures and almost dry brush the raised surfaces.
White primer when most of the top coat colours are light/white.
Grey if not either of the above.
@Caesar-Seriona They will work with most versions of A&A.
The issue will be that Anniversary and Global have more territories on the map than1942 2ed.
Some have suggested using a die to decide. (if 1942 has one territory but the other has three, 1-2, 3-4, 5-6 die roll to see who gets the zombies)
You might run short of zombies as well, but painting up some infantry from a parts game should work well.
I don’t think anything else is needed.
just checked my two editions.
Sculpts have more detail in the first edition as seen in the video.
mold must be wearing down when they did the 2nd edition. (from Europe 10402nd edition proABLYY)
Boards definitely are not warped like in the 2nd edition.
My guess is less/different glue used in the 1st edition.
All in all, the first is better for boards and second has a few new/different sculpts.
Original print runs will always hold a little more value. Just like 1st edition books.
That said, I would think the 1st edition will be a better purchase because of the boards.
I haven’t checked recently, but I don’t think my 1st edition boards are bowing anywhere near as bad as my 2nd edition.
My second edition were so bad I e-mailed WOTC for a replacement. After a lot of back and forthing, they replaced them. Actually, they just sent me a whole new game. Now, these new boards are also starting to bow.
Will check my 1st edition soon and report back.
HBG pieces are great looking BUT shipping to Canada is like buying a game at MSR.
It just isn’t worth using HBG when shipping generally equals and often exceeds the total order price.
Hence one reason I buy 2 copies of each game. (just not at full retail)
I pick up second/third copies when the price is right.
Usually $5-$15 per game is my limit. It happens every so often, like once every 2-3 years.
More pieces is a definite plus too.
I find it cheaper to buy used than just bump up certain armies through places like e-bay or HBC.
Thanks for the replies.
They look like they could add a new wrinkle in the A&A games. Definitely India and China would benefit from using them.
A question on recruitment centres. Are people house ruling them into all A&A games?
If so, what cost do you put them at and how may infantry can you place in one?
Thanks and the models look great.
I am not sure. Plastic colouring is funny that way. I imagine it would also vary between print runs as it isn’ as important to monitor.
I like the colours to all match so I replaced all my units from A&A&Z with pieces from a spare Spring 1942 game.
I also doubled the piece count to reduce the number of chips used in a game.
I own the following:
Classic - 3/4 copies ( I give them to people who want something more than Risk-I buy them when I see them for $5/$10)
Revised - 2 copies (still like playing this version)
Europe - 1 copy
Pacific - 2 copies
D-Day - 2 copies
Guadalcanal - 1 copy
Battle of the Bulge - 1 copy
Anniversary (first print) – 1 copy
Spring 1942 - 3 - copies (use pieces of 2 copies to augment other titles)
Europe 1940 (first edition) - 1 copy
Pacific 1940 (first edition) - 2 copies ( I am looking for a 2nd ed. board to mate up with Europe. I prefer the 1st ed. maps but being a visual guy, I want the maps to sync. Dislike the new ANZAC sculpts so don’t want a 2nd ed. game)
Europe 1940 (second edition) - 1 copy
1914 - 2 copies
1942 (second edition) - 3 copies (one shrink from last years boxing day sale Amazon - $30)
Anniversary (second edition) - 2 copies
1941 - 1 copy
A&A&Zombies - 1 copy
Xeno 1939 version - 1 copy
If I see any title selling for $5-$10, I usually pick it up cause I have a problem.
@djensen shipping outside the US is killer for me though.
Thankfully I own two copies of each game, so I’m set for chips.
I wish shipping was less though, but when the order cost is less than shipping, it is hard to justify.
Cheaper to get a second copy of any game used or on a good sale.
@Mill-Creek I believe A&A 1914 also used the same chips. They came in light and dark red and blue colours. I will double check today if they mesh with the 1942SE chips and let you know.
Different colours would denote different amounts.
If so, it might be easier to get these chips as people bought second copies for more pieces.
Just a thought.
@djensen I bought a bunch once for my kids birthday grab bags. There was a few different sizes and shapes at the time.
I should go back and see what they have.
I need something for the A&A&Z game. My 42SE uses the boxes from my second Anniversary edition game. Those are nice boxes!
I made inserts from a file here or BGG which was print/fold/glue. It made 6 sections for the Ann. boxes. Inf/Armour-Art./Fighters-Bombers/AC-Battleship/other ships/Tokens.
I would check out a Michaels store if in the US or Canada.
They have many different shapes/sizes of plain card board boxes. All you would need to do is glue the dividers in.
I always check out fishing tackle stores if I can when out of town. (we have one in town)
The tackle storage boxes they have are different from the hardware store variety in shape and size. Often more dividers too.
When I made/converted boxes for my AAR game years ago, I used the set up chart as a lid. Held to the box with elastics.
The best thing about Classic was the integration of the storage styrofoam tray and the set up card. Someone was really thinking about the players when designing both components. A lost art.
FA is the one I don’t own of the gamesmaster series.
It would have some unique pieces to enhance other A&A games.
G40 is the best when you have time and a group.
I’m hoping A&A&Z with or without the zombies will be a version my son will play.
Shorter and less pieces are the draw right now.
@taamvan I don’t break up games either.
Having 2 copies of each game helps.
I just think Spring 1942 is a dog with its small map and bad rules. I prefer 1942 SE over Spring 1942 as well.
I pick up used A&A games for $5-$10 each , older versions mind you, whenever I see them for the pieces.
Spring 1942 is one I see regularly and buy if in the price range. That is why I have 3 copies. One is now with 1941 and one with A&A&Z.
well, a couple of things.
This isn’t a full A&A game. Think more along the lines of 1941 as the IPCs are less.
Second, do what I did and use pieces from Spring 1942 (which will never be played as the map sucks and the rules are better in 42 SE) or another A&A game.
It is a less expensinve A&A game so costs were cut on pieces.
The bright side is they included money AND a second card deck to convert 1942 SE into a zombie game.
I think this is the first A&A game in a long time which is priced right for what you get.