Greetings from Michigan!

Attached are a couple snapshots of my map project.  There is still a lot of work to do and it is a work in progress, but I like the way it is coming along. I’m open to criticisms, suggestions, etc…  I’ll be sure to share the entire map file when it is finally completed so that others can use it too if they want.  I used the original scanned map file that is available on this site for download as a base for the project.  So a special thank you to those that were a part of that.

The entire map was “disassembled” province by province and reassembled.  All of the imperfections of the original scan have been eliminated.  Colors “pop” now where they need to.  The ocean and seas have been re-done with some subtle texturing added (hard to see in the images).  Many of the province shapes on the map have been corrected (to be revealed when the project is completed), especially the island provinces.  I’ll provide a complete list of corrections/changes soon.  It still looks a bit “flat”, but as the details and texturing get added, it will improve that.  Much work still to be done - province names, borders, sea zones, details, etc. etc…

Regards,
D

@siredblood:

Also, im not sure im happy with the direction of the art….

Another error found in the OOB… Honolulu is on the wrong island, they have it on Maui, not Oahu

I like it!  I prefer some contrast between territories/nations, but that’s just my preference.  So your map works for me, especially the bluer oceans/seas.  I think you captured the old paper map style well, if that is what you were after?  Maybe give it some rough/torn edges?  Nice work!

@siredblood:

The layer FX eats up the file size….

Ok, makes sense.  On mine, In order to keep file size down and number of layers, I did a lot of it in separate stand-alone projects, even much of the text.  And then when I was happy with something, I would merge the layers and import the JPEG into the map project.  If I wanted to edit, say some text, I would edit the separate text project file, merge layers, and import again.  So much of the FX stuff was done outside of the actual map project.  One thing that I found also is to try and keep text in the main map file to a minimum as it slows things down.  Raserize your text whenever practical.  Looking forward to seeing your finished product.

@robert:

looks good. 4 gigs is nothing for a map this size.

I’d say it is.  I just finished a map that is about 30% larger than OOB with over 1000 layers and the .psd file is 1.2 gigs.  I was not using 32-bit color so maybe that’s the difference.  :?

4 gigs!?  Holy cow.  Yeah, you must have a lot of layers going on.  Still, 4 gigs?!?!  Water looks cool, as does the kamikaze and convoy icons!  I saw a map that was for a different game completely that was a “vintage” style like what you’re going after.  I thought it looked really cool.  Looking forward to seeing your finished product.

The key that I’ve seen is the dam rifles like to peel from use and I do use my pieces a lot. So main reason why I asked if there was a better sticking primer.

With some specific parts of pieces, I think moderate chipping and flaking of paint is going to be inevitable, especially with the rifle ends of the infantry pieces.  Those end pieces (the rifle barrels) flex and bend around when being handled.  Therefore, you need to find a flexible primer and paint to work with that flexing.  Latex paint is one type that comes to mind.  This type of paint is used heavily by scale RC airplane guys (me included).  As a scale RC airplane is flying in the air, the wings and control surfaces get flexed.  Furthermore, fluctuations in temperature and humidity make the wooden structure of the RC plane expand and contract.  They need a paint that works with all this flexing and contracting so that the paint doesn’t flake off and chip away.  Latex paint.

I have not tried it on scale miniature game pieces, so I cannot say with certainty if it works just as well in this arena.  All you can do is try it and see.

Cheers,
Busarider

Sweet ! Dont forget Mad Dog. He has played by me and is in Holland I believe or real close to that.

Holland, cool.  That’s close to me too.  I own some rental properties in Zeeland, which is literally right next to Holland.  I’m pretty familiar with that area.

Cheers,
Busarider

You play with Mad Dog or Big Al ?

BigAL and I just recently got in touch, so will most likely end up in his playgroup.

Cheers,
Busarider

Thanks. Ya I used to have a paint booth too for my model trains. Basically weathering. The key that I’ve seen is the dam rifles like to peel from use and I do use my pieces a lot. So main reason why I asked if there was a better sticking primer.  I used to use chalks brushed on cars to give them a weathered looked. Then spray with tester’s dullcote. Have you tried using chalks ?

A flat finish is going to eventually start to wear off in the high spots of the piece with a lot of handling.  Honestly, I think its probably inevitable.  As stated, you could try using a gloss clear over top of your painted finish.  Let that cure, then go back over it with a dull spray.  Be aware that I have not tried this and it is just a suggestion.  I will probably try it myself to see how it works though.  The gloss will not wear off nearly as fast as a flat finish.  Sure, with handling you will wear off the dull coat in the high spots of the piece with handling, but underneath that will be the gloss protective coat that will protect the color coat against wear.  I think the piece would still have its flat appearance as the worn off areas would only be in the high intricate edges of the piece.

For gloss coats, try simple “Future Floor Polish”.  I think its just called “Future” now.  It is acrylic based, but it is durable.  It needs to because its formulated for use on hardwood floors.  It is one of the many “tools” in my arsenal of tools in my hobby room.  You can paint it on with a fine brush, or squirt a bit in your airbrush, thin it with some water and spray.  Because this is an acrylic, it is a “cold” base.  I have used Testor’s solvent based flat clear over the top of it, but you need to be absolutely sure that the “Future” is completely cured, and then only spray the solvent flat in very thin coats.  Wait at least 3 days before spraying over the top of “Future” with a solvent base flat clear coat, if flat coat is your final coat on your piece.

Yes, I have a full array of pastel chalks and use them often in the weathering process for military models.

Cheers,
Busarider

@SS:

Where in Mich you from ?

Mt. Haley Township area, just outside of Midland.

-Busarider

@Nowhere:

What about using a paint that has primer built-in and afterwards using a clear coat… is this a good way to paint without having to do a seperate primer first, then paint? Such as the example in the picture?

My best answer for that is to just try it and see.  With that said, I’m of the type that I not only like to use the right tools for the job, but I also prefer to use the best tools for the job.  I would say any paints that come from the hardware store and are not specifically formulated for scale modeling, may be the right tool for the job, but probably not the best tool for the job.  They may work, but may not work the best.

Hope that helps,
Busarider