Stunning and simply beautiful!
Please let me know if you ever make it available, I would definitely like to play on it.
The biggest hurdle I’ve found to printing these off and putting them together is getting overlap on the pages. Without this it became difficult to cut off the edges of the paper and get everything aligned nicely.
My solution to this was to use MS Publisher with a .1 to .2 overlap. This gives you some room to align things up nicely.
Additionally, you can resize the map to any dimensions.
Title: Italian Fleet Looks Great… at the bottom of the Med (take TWO)
Date: 30th of December
Special Rules: NO’s and Tech were both used. 1941 scenario
Victor: AXIS victory, by concession
Game Length: around 10 hours
Bias: Pretty Even
Description: Germany didn’t learn from the 1942 game and left enough UK shipping that the bomber from UK and the FTR from Egpyt sank the Italian fleet AGAIN UK1. This kept Italy as a land force for the entire game. Turned out to be very effective as a can opener. Snuck in with German troops and opened up East Ukraine for a German tank drive to Moscow on G3. Only thing that kept the axis in the game. UK was HUGE. USSR retook Moscow, but the Allies never got the tempo back up and finally surrendered.
Germany built a bomber per turn and that kept the Atlantic empty of any UK fleet for many turns. When they weren’t killing UK fleet they were sent to the front. Very effective toys until the Luftwaffe FTR force was taken down.
Japan had China down to 1 territory, but US snuck in with a bomber and sunk it’s AP fleet. Japan was hamstrung and never recovered. It was marginalized on it’s island for the rest of the game. Once Germany and Italy broke Moscow’s back and headed to the Far East Japan would’ve made a come back.
UK built the Indian factory and was able to push the Japanese off the mainland with help from USSR. US snuck in 2 loaded APs into Fukien and hooked up with UK. Japan found itself fighting 4 tempos between US, Chinese hordes, UK, and USSR. It held a factory in Manchuria for as long as possible with some interesting tactics, however it was finally ovewhelmed.
Observations/Recommendations: Protecting the Italian fleet is key – but it turns out not as bad as it looks.
Title: Italian Fleet Looks Great… at the bottom of the Med
Date: 30th of December
Special Rules: NO’s and NO Tech. 1942 scenario.
Victor: ALLIED victory, by concession
Game Length: around 2 hours
Bias: Pretty Even
Description: Germany didn’t attempt to sink enough UK shipping. Italian fleet sunk on UK1. Japan failed to kill Chinese FTR. It kind of went downhill from there. Agreed to surrender and re-roll a 1941 game.
Observations/Recommendations: Protecting the Italian fleet is key. sz12 is a must clear on G1, or at least leave the German DD there to block the UK fleet.
Title: British Capture Berlin, Twice (1942)
Date: December 27th, 2008
Special Rules: Tech + NO
Victor: Axis by Concession playing to 13 victory cities
Game length: 5 turns/ 6 hours
Bias: 1 expeirenced Axis player aganist 1 new Allies player
Discription: Japan focused on China while holding off US and sending six aircraft too Eastern Ukraine on J2.
Nice to know the “Unbeatable Strategy” isn’t – and this vs. a new Allied player. Guess it just takes seeing things from a different perspective.
Though I’m still having a hard time getting the 6th FTR to Eastern Ukraine. Can someone walk me through the logistics behind this without Long Range Aircraft tech. The one in Japan just keeps running out of gas for me. :?
Thanks for the AAR!
… but there were nearly 100 players. (http://www.jimwallman.org.uk/tlw/index.htm) That way you simulate the reality of missinterpreted orders, bad briefings…
This looked like an amazing simulation. I can’t imagine having conflicting political and military objectives along with poor communication. What wonderful chaos that must have created. Were any of the German Generals shot for not following orders?
I like to try and do this for Axis and Allies, and hope to get 12 people playing in the new year. This way you can have Japanese Army and Japanese Navy and make them argue over strategy. Ditto the US are split into ETO and PTO - that way you don’t get such a strong KGF, as the other player wants to follow KJF.
Keep us posted on this one. It has some real interesting potential – I’d like to try and get this working with our local gaming group. We can usually muster 10 people or so once a month and get 2 boards going at once so combining it to one group wouldn’t be too far of a stretch.
What kind of white “control” team do you need to pull this off, and how to you keep the dialectic tension at a high level within the teams?
PanzerPainter, what do you use to seal your paint jobs. The guys I play with are really rough on my toys so I had to resort to sealing the paint with MinWax Polyshades.
Problem is, even the satin is rather glossy though it does a nice job shading and protecting.
For the record, if anyone want’s to try this strategy out I’m willing to take the Allies here. We can play best out of 3, best out of 5, Low luck to eliminate the wild dice swings, or whatever you think it would take to prove or disprove this strategy.
Yeah, I think it is kind of a gimmick – at least it’ll be over quick. If the Allies see this one coming, and start pumping fighters into Russia I don’t think the Axis can pull it off.
Once they blunt the attack the game is over for Japan and Germany will be reeling.
One of the problems with the tactic/strategy is that Italy is wide open. Germany failed to retake France on G2 and UK drove a tank with airplanes into Italy. Stalls them right out.
So, you just can’t ignore the Western Front.
It bears some more analysis but I don’t think the Axis can pull it off if the Allies are wise to the possibility.
Looks great on paper though.
Title: Splish, Splash, the Japs were taking a Bath… (1942)
Date: …Long about a Saturday night… 20 December 2008
Special Rules: Techs and NO’s
- Attempted to go for LHTR Super Bombers rules but was vetoed down
- Gang voted 3-2 to play with tech
Victor: Allied Victory
- Germany finally croaked “please take your foot off my neck… I can’t breathe…”
Game Length: 6 hours/3 rounds … yeah, we’re slow movers
Bias: Sides seemed pretty balanced. Japanese had some really cold dice and they never recovered from J1.
G1: Tech*2. Germany opened by sinking the British navy and digging in on the Eastern Front. Loses the U-Boat fleet.
R1: Tech. Takes Finland and digs in for defense
J1: Tech*2. Transport.
Japan lost 5 of it’s fighters and the US BB survived.
I1: Trans-Jordan & Egypt
Agreed that the next game we’ll attempt without tech. Seems to make it too much of a crap shoot/game breaker.
US/UK/Japan ended up with Long Range Aircraft as tech
Japan never recovered from the loss of it’s Air Force on the first move and failed to see US setting up in the Philippines. Japan was left empty and US walked in on US3 after a brief naval conflict. After Japan fell it was just a matter of time – though there was a brief moment where Germany might have pulled off taking USSR.
Long Range Aircraft really shrinks the Pacific and turns the tide for whoever gets it first. US had fighters and bombers in Australia as defense and the tech advantage gave them global reach. Japan should have gone totally defensive after that tech roll and waited for Germany and Italy to take Russia.
Germany & Italy were doing some amazing work in the Caucasus. That is a pretty scary combo punch down there when they finally get it wired. My hat is off to the coordinated action down there.
Nice review – thanks for taking the time!
The Russian sub became an expensive annoyance by wandering around in the mediterranian, denying me a badly needed 5 IPC bonus for several turns. I even bought a destroyer to deal with it, and he attacked and sank the destroyer (I should have split my fleet to protect it, I invaded the Caucasus by sea that turn but I could have spared a cruiser).
Only fly in the ointment that I saw – Subs don’t deny Italy the NO and the 5 IPC.
“control all of the following territories: Italy, Balkans, Morocco/Algeria, and Libya,
and no enemy surface warships are in sea zones 13, 14, and 15.
(See Sea Units, pg. 28 for information on surface warships.)”
So, don’t let him get away with it next time
I didn’t start until 1987. Played it until the box was in shambles… along with all the other releases (e.g., Shogun, Forceless America, & Conquest of the Empire). Then they sat on the shelf for many years gathering dust until we started a group up here in San Antonio last year. We have monthly get matches usually with 2 boards going.
Where is your FLGS QuakerGeneral?
Someone just posted this to our local gaming group. I thought IL would get a kick out of it (n.b., he probably has one or two stashed away in his guest bedrooms with his backup copies of AA50 already set up).
For those who have “everything”:
The top of the line Sultan table goes for $12,700, seats nine players, and has five separate built in dice towers. Oh, and it has panels to convert it back to a dining table without disturbing your game in progress. Its been a while since I had a good lottery fantasy…
Go to the website for further mouth-watering & keyboard drooling pictures.
Enjoy the day!
I too spent the big bucks on “The War Game” pieces. They are quite nicely done, unfortunately not to the same scale – and my US player refused to play with Tigers.
Perhaps the folks over at FieldMarshalGames are willing to stick thier necks out and get some nicely sculptured pieces made.
Anyone know Jeff well enough to get him to tell us what landmines to avoid when starting down this path of creating custom scultpures?
Ah! Cmdr J. the good old days of Billy Mitchell and the Ostfriesland. You had to go pick at that scab, didn’t you… some wounds never heal!
One of the versions of AARHE has the rule of not allowing bombers to engage in naval warfare – I thought it played pretty well and made sense from a historical point of view as well.
In the few games of AA50 I’ve played I’ve found the German bombers to be very effective at keeping the Atlantic free of pesky ships trying to invade France. I’d hate to play without them, but it sounds like an option that might be worth exploring.
Your favortie… Home Cheap-o!
WolfCraft 1/2" RH Plugs. 25/pack. #2957.
I centerbore them with a dremel tool press (n.b., so they don’t split) and then tap in a number #10 wire braid (e.g., 1.5") for flags and bombers. Fighters are mounted on a #17 - 1" braid.
I use 1/4" washers - 100ct #19822. They have a nice weight. However, with AA50 I switched to just using pennies. It’s cheaper A washer is $.0345 vs $.01 - though they are a little bigger.
Anyway, after it is assembled I spraypaint it all black with the Home Cheap-o $.99 enamal special and bada-bing-bada-boom nice shiney black flagpole/airplane stand.
Flags are just printed on label paper.
Like I said previously I can’t take a digital photo to save my life, but here is some of my British 8th Army. I mount them on washers so they have a nice feel and color code the washers.
I’m always amazed at step #1. SPRAYPAINT MY PEICES… are you nuts!?
But this is the magic. When it dries it shrinks and creates a flexible shell around your plastic figure. You lose none of the detail. This shell means you can bend the rifles (e.g., the Japanese are the worst offenders) and the paint doesn’t flake off.
So now you can paint this flexible shell with acrylics and it sticks very very nicely. Finally, the Minwax puts another protective shell around your acrylic and you can step on these figures and they are still o.k.
My group is very rough on my figures but they weather the beating very nicely.
Seeing all the hard work you’ve put into your figures you should give this method a try. You won’t be disappointed.
One note you will see if you look closely at the photos. The paint is fairly soft, and the molding process leaves a finish that is not best for the paint. The paint has started to come off on the corners a bit. It isn’t a big deal but keep that in mind. I suspect there is someone out there that may know a pretreatment that would help the paint adhere to the soldiers even better.
Thanks for sharing your labor of love Dinosaur. Great work. I’d never painted plastics before either, so it took some research and some dabbling… here is one of the best articles I found that sums it up.
– article – (and to whoever wrote this… thank you!)
I’ll copy here the same thing I always post about painting the plastic men up for our Descent game, since we use the same technique for any plastic gaming miniatures we paint up.
Just insert the word “T.O.I” or “Memoir '44” for “Descent”. Indeed, someday I have to get around to painting those up, too!
My wife generally does our miniatures painting (she is really quite good), but for our Descent game we went with a tried-and-true, newbie-friendly method so that I could give her a hand, and still get nice results.
Plus, we’re cheap, old-school gamers. We don’t like to pay money if we don’t have to.
Step One: Primer
Use White automobile primer, no-name brands from low-cost stores like WalMart, etc. Coat lightly, but evenly. The masters don’t have to be pure white (they’ll wind up looking kinda pink-ish). Don’t worry. You just want enough primer for the other paint to stick to.
Step Two: The Paints
Use acrylic craft paints, like “Apple Barrel” paints, from low-cost stores like Walmart, etc. Don’t buy them at craft stores, or you’ll spend too much. Each tube of paint runs about 50 cents, and ours have lasted years and years. However, for metallics (like for chainmail, bronze, etc.) we still find that the standard miniatures paints are a little nicer.
Step Three: The “Dip”
For Descent miniatures, we opted to go for the “Dip” method, or “Magic Dip”, as it is sometimes called.
What is this magic dip, you ask?
Minwax light- or medium-brown wood stain. Yes, wood stain. I know, it sounds crazy! A little can, costs about 2 dollars, lasts for years of projects.
Some people actually “dip” their entire miniature in the stain, then wick off the excess. I find that a bit much, so instead we just paint it on with a brush.
The Dip Method:
a. When painting, paint broad general colours over things, but paint them in lighter tones than you normally would. So paint the beastman skin a light flesh tone, paint his loincloth a light red, leave his hair primed white, paint his sandals light brown. He looks cartoonish and ugly so far, with just general bright colours, and no details.
b. Brush on Minwax wood stain. Light/medium Brown colours work well, because they don’t darken the original paint too much. IF you want more black colours, make it a very light grey/black, or you’ll just stain the whole thing black.
The stain flows over everything, but then runs into the cracks by preference. It acts similarly to an ink wash, but with slightly different (and useful) results.
The wood stain tones down the colours (that’s why you painted them lighter than you would’ve normally), blends them, blurs the edges between each broad colour band. It also fills in the cracks with dark colour, making the details POP out instantly. Finally, it coats the miniature with a nice protective coating.
It really does blend the colours together. Our Hellhounds were painted with broad bands of 3 shades of brown, then stained, and suddenly they looked all blended and shaded, but with the cracks filled in an the manes completely detailed out. It is truly nifty to watch!
If too much stain has pooled in one spot, use a small piece of paper towel to wick off the excess easily. Check the miniature every few minutes, to see that you’re getting the results you want.
Let the stain dry completely, until it is no longer tacky. This can take a full 24 hours for some miniatures, but we’ve managed to paint miniatures just an hour or so after staining.
c. Now, go back and drybrush on a few last details. Drybrush teeth white (but leave those cracks filled in brown/black, so the details still stand out nicely). Drybrush chainmail with a nice metallic silver. And so on. Just pop out those last few details that you want to call attention to.
d. Clear-coat with a dull/matte acrylic clear coat protector. This will stop the paint from chipping through extended use.
“The Dip” is fast, simple, easy, and gets results! I can’t paint a miniature to save my life, but I’ve managed to paint up my descent miniatures quite nicely. Of course, for truly nice work, I hand them over to my wife for detailing. However, for the general monstrous-type miniatures, when I just want to paint them quickly-yet-prettily, this method can’t be beat.
“Magic Wash” method (an alternative to “the dip”)
Another method is to use “Magic Wash”, which is a mixture of 4 parts water to one part “Miracle Floor Wax”, then mixed with paint. This forms a paint wash, which you can use instead of “the dip”, but with a similar sort of aim. You can customize the hue, tint, and colour to your heart’s content, wash it over your figure, and it’ll seep into the cracks. Make your Wash colour nice and dark (darker than what you’re painting), and it’ll also harden up ever so slightly when it dries (that’s the plastic wax component of the Miracle Floor Wax) to form a mild protective coating on your miniature.
Either method is quick and easy and cheap.