Anyone interested in Classic Axis and Allies strats this is a great link. I play in AAWC online club that strictly plays classic Axis and Allies 2nd/3rd editions. Some of us for 15 years. This link is the “Greatest Generals Memoirs”. This is where over the years player who reach the #1 ranking within the club could post there strategies for others to view. Some of us who achieved the #1 ranking have never posted, some have. Its a great place to get some views on the game.
Posts made by 19k
RE: Never Played!!
RE: Never Played!!
Building ICs for UK or USA is not a good play unless your playing a tec strat and want to place an IC you know Japan will take so you can bomb it later in the game if you hit HB. The way to win as Axis is Africa Africa Africa. Germany must take and hold Egypt as long as possible to keep its IPC income up to amass units. If you control Egypt you control Kenya, South Africa, IEA. Thats +6 IPCs a turn for you and -6 for UK. This eventually will put enough pressure on Kar to force the Allies to commit units and keep it honest.
Germany needs to hold WE/Berlin/EE. Trading WE is bad business, your wasting units on the retake each round and giving 6 IPC to the Allies. Your bleeding yourself.
Japan should NEVER buy an IC in a tec game, EVER. The second the Allies hit HB your now within bombing range. They cannot reach your capital without HB+LRA. Use transports.
After round 2 the German fleet is usually gone, now its up to Japan to support Africa. Dont lose focus on this trying to sprint to Moscow. You will lose the race. The key to this is holding Sinkiang as soon as possible.
Round 1 buys for Axis (Germany 8 men, sub: Japan 3 men, 2 transports)
In the end no matter your initial tactics the key is your ability to read the board and adapt the battle outcomes. The fight is in Africa……thats where the games won/lost. Unless you get easy tec.
The game is out of balance for the start. Most players use a bidding system for the Axis. If I bid +18 that means I get Axis and place 6 men (or any combo of 18 IPC worth of units) prior to the start. If you play this way dont worry about placing them in EE or UKR (what we call a PE or Power Europe placement). Place them in Asia/Africa. With +18 I place 4 Men Libia, 1 Man Manchuria, 1 Man Kwang.
One note on the Allies…USSR’s open hit should be UKR not EE. Ukr has 2 tanks in it. I hit this wil 7 men, 2 tank, 1 ftr from USSR and roll to the death. Kill that fighter and two German Tanks. Its worth more then EE. Dont forget the German Sub and Tranny!!!
RE: Classic rules questions
4. Can a single transport drop off to two different territories for 2 different amphibious assaults? Or can it only drop to separate territories during noncombat?
The rulebook seems to say you can only unload to 2 different territories from the same transport during noncombat move.
page 16: “or if a transport was in the sea zone surrounding the united kingdom, it could carry 1 infantry to finland/norway and 1 infantry to western europe if the UK controlled these territories”
An example of this……
R1 Germany Combat move picks up two infantry from Southern Europe, moves into the E Med with a transport and battleship unloading 1 infantry into Egypt along with 1 Inf/1 Tnk from Libya and unloads 1 infantry into Syria/Iraq with the German Bomber. After completing the naval battle vs the UK sub in the E Med both land battles are then rolled if the German tranny survives.
Is this split drop on combat a legal move?
RE: Classic rules questions
Just to clarify here is an example.
North Sea battle R1 Germany moves 2 subs, 1 tranny, 5 fighters, 1 bomber in the combat phase. After completing combat the german tranny lives. It then picks up two infinity from Finland and unloads them into Western Europe. This does not require any movement points from the tranny to do so since the North Sea touches both Finland and Western Europe nor has the tranny been used to move land units during Germanys turn.
In reality all 3 of the above questions are the same.
The real question is……can a surviving transport that has taken part in Combat pick up units, without moving, on the Noncombat phase if it has not transported units yet as given in the above example.
I think the answer to that question covers all 3. I do not read/see anywhere it states this move is illegal.
RE: Rules/Programing issues with TripleA Classic Maps
Please dont take those “f–- off’s” by some as a voice from AAWC. The War Zone serve used by those playing in AAWC on the Hasbro CD is not owned by AAWC. The War Zone server is owned and controlled by a privet party (i believe someone from the Risk Lobby).
We can not control who comes into the War Zone, only those allowed to be members of the AAWC club. There are several players in the War Zone who are not active members of AAWC.
I will post my comments on the thread you posted, thank you for all you do.
Rules/Programing issues with TripleA Classic Maps
I am new to the tripleA system, I have played in AAWC since the 90’s. This league as you know is mostly Classic using the Hasbro CD.
I have since moved over here for a few reasons but I do enjoy playing the Classic game. I have downloaded the classic maps you created and installed them. I have noticed however there are some issues with the game play that do not follow Classic rules.
Subs: The subs are programed to work like Axis and Allies Revised edition on TripleA which do not follow AAWC’s rules that are based off Classic.
Order of Attack in a Naval Battle Per TripleA
Attacker Subs Fire
Defender Removes Hits
Defending Subs Fire
Attacker Removes Hits
Defender selects hits
Attacker Selects hit
Units are removed
In the TripleA program all subs fire both defending and attacking, any hits are removed, then the rest of the battle is rolled.
Another Example: Germany does an amphibious assault into Egypt R1. When the German BB and Tranny move into the E Med the UK Sub (even though its defending) fires FIRST before the German BB. This is wrong according to the Classic Rules.
Classic Rules, Page 19 NAVAL COMBAT " 1. Place all units on the battle board, 2. Attacking subs fire, 3. Submarine casualties are removed, 4. Attacker Fires All other Units"
Revised Edition Rules Page 32 “Sneak Attack: Submarines always fire in the opening fire step, whether on attack or defense. They can fire only on sea units. Casualties from this attack will be destroyed before they can return fire, unless an enemy destroyer is present. (Any sea or air unit can hit a submarine.)”
As you can see this rule was changed in Revised. To make these map truly “Classic” this needs to be adjusted within the TripleA programing.
You can not split your drops. This is allowed in Classic and Changed in Revised.
TripleA will not let you pick up units and unload them on noncombat if the tranny was used in combat. You can ONLY load them, you cannot unload them that round. (Example: North Sea R1 Germany attacks with 2 subs, tranny and all its air, the Tranny lives. You can not pickup units in Finland and drop them in WE on noncombat even though its allowed in Classic Rules, Revised Rules its an illegal move)
These are just a few things I have discovered thus far.
BTW, so far I like what I see. Great work. I posted such on the thread you started in AAWC.
RE: How To Play Forum Games Using TripleA
As I posted Im on a MBP (Mac Book Pro, their Laptop) Retina display. I checked and have bypassed the Apple License block you referred to.
I will try downloading the .zip file you refereed to and keep you posted. Thanks for the help.
RE: Classic 2nd Edition, 3rd Edition, and Iron Blitz
Thanks for the reply. I agree with everything you said. Axis and Allies has evolved a lot since Classic days. I own A&A Europe 1ED and have a Copy of 1942 1ED here now (currently in a game). I love many of the changes you refer to but like and ole dog I still cant shake my love for the original game that got me hook so many years ago.
Many of the players in AAWC play the other board games, just not online. The original Hasbro CD-Rom only allows Classic 2nd/3rd ED. This is why the club has developed different data bases such as “sword” which was intended to simulate 1940 within the Hasbro games limitations.
Just wanted to point out to another A&A community to be open minded and if your interested in some very competitive Classic games download the programs.
Dont be surprised if it takes you a dozen games or so to get your first win
Some of the most competitive games I have played are in the 2v2 Squad league. We use voice chat programs to talk over stat’s and moves. Good way to learn and make friends in the process.
p.s. Another reason I love playing in AAWC on the War Zone game server is the games are fast. Classic plays fast compared to other revisions, so if your looking for competitive play and have 2-4 hrs you can get a full game in.
Im looking forward to trying out TripleA very soon.
RE: Need Help, new to 2nd edition
Played thrice now and have won them all as axis. Seems a lot easier to win as Axis in this version.
If your playing a no RR game with a 0 bid and winning as Axis your Allies player is not very good (no disrespect intended).
Barring a total collaps of the dice I wouldn’t lose as Allies in a traditional no RR 3rd Edition game. It favors the Allies, most of the time I would give a bid of 18-20 depending on my opponent in a standard 3rd ED no RR.
If you playing no RR……
USSR hits Ukr with 6inf/2tnk/1ftr and roll it until Ukr is dead but do NOT lose the USSR fighter. Send 1 Ftr/Sub on the German Sub/Tranny. If you only hit 1 retreat the sub back to the North Sea (assuming Germany misses). If you clear them both its a bonus. Some people will hit Manch with 6 Inf/1Tnk. I chose not to. If this goes bad your going to get steam rolled on the back side by Japan. I stack Yak with 6 and put 1 Inf/1Tnk Novo. If all goes well you sink the German tanny/sub and take Ukraine with 2-3 ground. This forces Germany to hit the North Sea with only 1 cover ship (the sub of WE) and the remaining 4 ftrs/1bmr. Its to risky for them to try and send 1 plane after the UK tranny in the Lab. This weakens the hit on the North Sea and Germanys likely to lose more planes. They also have to deal with your forces in Ukr. Those USSR units, normally tanks, cannot be left alive. With the German Air committed to the North Sea Germany will likely be forced to use 1-2 tanks on that counter hit.
In a normal game (barring any oddities in the dice) Germany is down 1-2 planes at the conclusion of its turn R1. The rest is just adjusting and reacting to how the game unfolds.
If your playing with Technology…dont buy ANY IC’s with Japan. This opens you up to strat bombs by Heavy Bmrs. If you only have your original Capital the Allies can not reach with without LRA+HB. Buy 1-2 tranny per turn until your at 10+. Round 1 buy for Japan should ALWAYS be 2 Tranny 3 Inf. Sink Hawaii, Sink Hawaii, Sink Hawaii…use BB, Sub, Ftr, Bmr and kill China. Anything else and your taking risk and thinning out your other battles. Hawaii and China, be done, non combat move and place units.
I am currently deployed overseas and I am playing 1942 1ED. The classic version is much different…faster paced and harder for the Axis
note: I say I give bids of 18-20, the club I play in you have to state your placement with the bid (I.E. 20=2 men EE, 3 Men Libya, Tank Kwang).
RE: Classic 2nd Edition, 3rd Edition, and Iron Blitz
I do but just against myself. I don’t like all these names “anzio, juno, sword, omaha, etc”
And those people only play 1 vs. 1, not 4-5 players so forget it. I don’t understand what fun is it to play 1v1? That game is the ultimate team concept game.
I am new to this forum and looking to expand my A&A play. I have played Classic Axis and Allies for most of my 23 year military career. I have also been a member of Axisandalliesworldclub.org since the MSN days in the 90’s and currently rank in the top 5 for all data bases combine.
Your statement can not be more false. The names “Anzio, Juno, Kremlin, Sword, Omaha” only refer to different variants of the 2nd or 3rd addition rules.
The Anzio data base is 3rd Edition plus Axis Advantage turned “on” (German has Jets, Japan has Super Subs) no tech rolls allowed.
(A) Standard 3rd edition rules
(B) Russia Restricted(Russia may not attack on Round 1).
(D) Always Active AAguns
(E) Axis Advantage(Germany begins the games with Jets; Japan begins the game with Supersubs).
(F) No technology rolls allowed ever.
(G) Both IPC turned on.
(H) Bid for axis
(I) 3 min timer (this rule may be changed by mutual agreement)
Omaha is 3rd Edition rules, its just they gave it so when your looking for a game you can say “omaha”.
(A) standard Third Edition rules
(B) Both IPC turned on.
3-minute timer(this rule may be changed by mutual agreement)
(D) 2-hit battleships
(E) Always Active AAguns
(F) bid for Axis.
Please note- Omaha (DB1) has a unique way of bidding for axis. - See Club Rules and Regulations here.
And if you REALY want to add a twist to Axis and Allies you can try the Kremlin data base. This adds such a twist to the standard 2nd/3rd addition rules, bidding system and game play that no two games are ever the same.
You are also incorrect in saying “they only play 1v1”. There is a section of the Club devoted to “Squadron Play”. This is a 2v2 mini league within AAWC (Axis and Allies World Club). It runs in Season and they are currently half way through Season 31. This is a 2v2 league but the team playing Allies can request a 3rd person to make this 3v2 although the game will only be posted vs the 2 original players involved in the bidding.
I hope you and many more here will be more openminded about AAWC as I am about exploring playing here using TripleA. You are missing great opportunities to play some of the best in the world at Axis and Allies. Many of the players still playing there today have been playing this game since the 90’s logging thousands of games. The competition there is some of the best I have ever seen……
RE: How To Play Forum Games Using TripleA
I down loaded “triple_1_6_1_4_mac.dmg” assuming this was the Mac version of triple A.
When the DL completed and I tried to install the program I get this message “the following disk images could not be opened” “triple_1_6_1_4_mac.dmg unrecognized”
Did I DL the wrong program, or is there an issue? I am on a 1 month old MBP retina display.