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    DFlynSqrl

    @DFlynSqrl

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    Latest posts made by DFlynSqrl

    • RE: CONTESTED SKIES INFO

      @AgentOrange:

      That’s similar to how I was hoping they would set it up.  Thus far, I’ve only heard talk about fighters, so it’s refreshing to hear someone talk about bombers.  :-D

      Especially dive bombers.  How can you have a game involving German tactics and not have the Stuka?  I’m already painting bulls-eyes on the top of my Russian tanks… :)

      posted in Miniatures (Original)
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      DFlynSqrl
    • RE: Questions from a newbie

      @KansasBoyd:

      Do you play three wide by two deep

      or

      three deep by two wide?

      We usually play the 3 wide x 2 deep… but we don’t usually have a large enough table for more than that.  I prefer the 3 wide because it spreads out the armies and allows more room for flanking.

      posted in Miniatures (Original)
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      DFlynSqrl
    • RE: Attack~~Defend senerio sugestions

      Wouldn’t that be the same as the “Assault” scenario type described in the rules?  In which case the defender has 80 points and the attacker has 120 pt armies (going from memory here…).  The defender also gets to place the objective marker.

      So if you prefer a 300 point army.  Then since 80 is roughly 66% of 120.  Do the same to 300 and basically the defender gets a 200 point army.

      posted in Miniatures (Original)
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      DFlynSqrl
    • RE: Suggestions for my 100 point Japanese army.

      @General:

      Enola Gay.  100 points.  Versus Everything.  100,000/100,000/100,000

      Heh, go ahead and use the Enola Gay, but I’m not helping you count your hits after you toss 100,000 dice!  :-D

      posted in Miniatures (Original)
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      DFlynSqrl
    • RE: Play by Email/Forum for A&A Minis, How To?

      Well, the nice thing is that all the maps are already label Dog 1, Bravo 2, etc…

      So, the first part of the notation for a hex could be something like D1 (Dog 1), B2 (Bravo 2)…

      We could start with a standard then on numbering the hexes 001, 002, etc.  Maybe say that the corner of the map that has it’s name Dog 1, etc… the first valid hex on the top row is always 001 (meaning no half hexes).

      Since we have a tendency to flip the maps around the hex numbers won’t always be facing the same way as the other on the map, but still saying your M2 Flamethrower moved to D1-024 (Dog 1 Hex 024) should be easy enough to figure out.

      Then for facing we could always assume that we write the hex number at the top of the hex so that could always be position 1 for facing.  Then we could just number going clockwise at that point.
                                                      1
                                                    ___

      6  /  024    \2

      5  \            /3
                                                    ___                                   
                                                      4

      (Sorry for the crude hex… I’m at work…)

      So, the M2 Flamethrower moves into this hex and is facing the bottom of this hex (4).  D1-024-4  (Map Dog 1, Hex 024, Facing 4).

      Anyway, that would be my guess how to do it.  I’ve never played a play-by-mail game so maybe there is an actual standard for this, but this seems like it would be easy enough to me.

      posted in Miniatures (Original)
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      DFlynSqrl
    • RE: Vote for the best officer

      I voted the Haupsturmfurher, but I like to use the Inspiring Lt. quite a bit.  I didn’t see him on the list.  :(

      posted in Miniatures (Original)
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      DFlynSqrl
    • RE: The Perfect Game Board

      As far as game tiles go, I saw someone post about using “Lost Battalion Terrain Tiles” for A&A Mini’s.  The tiles look pretty nice.  Although after seeing how Lotus did his tiles I think I might try to do that myself!  Nice work Lotus!

      http://store.yahoo.com/lostbattalion/lobateti.html

      posted in Miniatures (Original)
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      DFlynSqrl
    • RE: Trading Rares

      I seem to have had my best luck completing my Set I by just buying missing pieces on eBay.  You might spend about $6 on an individual piece but it still seems cheaper than buying a booster to get another Sherman or Panzer IV, and not the piece you want.

      I haven’t had much luck with Set II because my local store has been sold out of Set II boosters.  I wish I could find out who that person is so I could play a few games with 'em.

      posted in Miniatures (Original)
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      DFlynSqrl
    • RE: German Sniper

      It’s really up to you as to how you keep track of it.  Since the vehicle in your example already has a face up disruption marker you really don’t have to have 2 on that vehicle, unless it helps you to remember that one is from a “Headshot” and will not be removed at the beginning of the next casualty phase (the end of the current turn).

      Headshot:
      “…This counter isn’t removed at the beginning of the next casualty phase.”

      [Headshot occurs in step D or E below]

      Turn sequence:
      …
      D.  First player’s assault phase
      E.  Second player’s assault phase 
      F.  Casualty phase (both players)  [this is the beginning of the next casualty phase… in the same turn]

      So, you begin the next turn.  If that same vehicle should receive any hits that cause disruption then you would want to put down a face-down disruption marker.  Because, after both Assault phases occur the casualty phase begins and all face-up disruption markers are removed (including the sniper one from the previous turn).  Now the one that is face down for that vehicle is flipped over.

      I think I understand this rule correctly.  Hope that helps.  If not, I sure someone else will pop in with the correct ruling.

      posted in Miniatures (Original)
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      DFlynSqrl
    • RE: 150 pt Game Format

      Yes, it was a good idea.  Worked really well.

      posted in Miniatures (Original)
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      DFlynSqrl