• '14 Customizer

    Not sure if this is the place I should post this. This is the new map I had created. The image file came from YoungGrasshopper and I modified the turn chart and added a tech chart. Other than that I think its the same file. Thanks to ImperiousLeader for recommending a better drawing program other than PSP7. I ended up using GIMP 2.0 to make my modifications. I want to first thank Ambilzi for creating the original and YoungGrasshopper for making the map with the NB and AB. Thank you guys so much I could never have got this far without your help.

    Right now I’m making new chips with magnets inserted into them and then I will be drilling all the pieces as well. I had the map created at a sign company that printed the map and laminated it. The map was then cut into two pieces to make it portable. After that they attached a backing made of sheet metal to make the magnets stick. The board was also enlarged to 36" x 79"

  • TripleA

    Holy hell.

    I would do this for AA50… Global… I guess it makes sense since you can save a game now. It is just global takes forever.

    I play Axis must get a VC win in 10 rounds or the allies win (if you need fluff / a non game story, the allies develop the atom bomb and the axis are too afraid to pursue victory thus surrendering, the end).  That is how I make quick global games. Which is why I have min/maxed every all in strategy like this game is a science.

  • TripleA

    Yeah that makes sense metal pieces with magnets do not tip over. Saved game.


  • Nice!

    I wish I had the time and creativity to do such a good looking thing.


  • Terrific-looking game table!  Very nice job.  When you say “drilling all the pieces as well”, do you mean drilling holes into the undersides of all the plastic combat units and inserting magnets into them?


  • Awesome man! Can’t wait for more pics with the magnets.


  • What an awesome board!  Gotta put Honolulu on the correct island, though.

  • TripleA

    Honolulu is on the wrong island by default. Ask Larry Harris why he put it there.

  • '14 Customizer

    @CWO:

    Terrific-looking game table! Very nice job. When you say “drilling all the pieces as well”, do you mean drilling holes into the undersides of all the plastic combat units and inserting magnets into them?

    Exactly. I use a 2mm drill and then bore it out with a 3mm drill. Using a 3mm drill on the chips without a 2mm hole first will crack them. I just use the same process for the miniature bases. The magnets I am using are 3mm diameter and 1mm thickness. I put a little super glue in the hole I drill then insert the magnet. On planes I use 2mm magnets and have to make sure the polarity is matched with the carriers or else the planes will fly away, hehe. I am also putting small 10mm felt circles on the bottom of the pieces that have bases on them which is infantry and artillery(I added bases to them to make it easier to attach a magnet). I will post some pics of my progress.


  • May the force be with you while drilling, Cyanight ;-)!


  • @cyanight:

    Exactly. I use a 2mm drill and then bore it out with a 3mm drill. Using a 3mm drill on the chips without a 2mm hole first will crack them. I just use the same process for the miniature bases. The magnets I am using are 3mm diameter and 1mm thickness. I put a little super glue in the hole I drill then insert the magnet. On planes I use 2mm magnets and have to make sure the polarity is matched with the carriers or else the planes will fly away, hehe. I am also putting small 10mm felt circles on the bottom of the pieces that have bases on them which is infantry and artillery(I added bases to them to make it easier to attach a magnet). I will post some pics of my progress.

    Thanks for the details.  It’s clear that you have good eyesight, a steady hand and lots of patience to carry out this kind of work on a full set of game sculpts.  :-)  I like the image of a fighter coming in for a carrier landing and bouncing off the deck because of a polarity problem – I think the carrier’s LSO (Landing Signals Officer) would characterize that as a wave-off.

  • '14 Customizer

    @CWO:

    @cyanight:

    Exactly. I use a 2mm drill and then bore it out with a 3mm drill. Using a 3mm drill on the chips without a 2mm hole first will crack them. I just use the same process for the miniature bases. The magnets I am using are 3mm diameter and 1mm thickness. I put a little super glue in the hole I drill then insert the magnet. On planes I use 2mm magnets and have to make sure the polarity is matched with the carriers or else the planes will fly away, hehe. I am also putting small 10mm felt circles on the bottom of the pieces that have bases on them which is infantry and artillery(I added bases to them to make it easier to attach a magnet). I will post some pics of my progress.

    Thanks for the details.  It’s clear that you have good eyesight, a steady hand and lots of patience to carry out this kind of work on a full set of game sculpts.   :-)   I like the image of a fighter coming in for a carrier landing and bouncing off the deck because of a polarity problem – I think the carrier’s LSO (Landing Signals Officer) would characterize that as a wave-off.

    I actually have the polarity switched for axis vs allied CV.  There is no possible way to accidently put an allied plane on an axis CV or vice versa. :)

  • '14 Customizer

    @ItIsILeClerc:

    May the force be with you while drilling, Cyanight ;-)!

    Thank you, its definitely a lesson in patience.


  • @cyanight:

    I actually have the polarity switched for axis vs allied CV.  There is no possible way to accidently put an allied plane on an axis CV or vice versa. :)

    An ingenious detail – and a potentially novel form of defense against kamikaze attacks.  :-D

  • '13

    Super cool! Besides a bump messing up a game, are the magnets strong enough to stick if the board goes vertical?

  • '14 Customizer

    @cb4:

    Super cool! Besides a bump messing up a game, are the magnets strong enough to stick if the board goes vertical?

    Yes they are in fact…  I bet with increased chip stacks though they might fall.  One of the reasons I modified the chips to the following.  With the added new green chip (3) and blue chip (10) I can now represent any unit from 1-20 using between 0-4 chips. Since Global 1940 is very spread out its difficult to determine the quantity of an army from a distance. The various colors, gray(1), green(3), red(5) and blue(10) will now help resolve that problem by reducing the stack size.

    1 No chip
    2 Gray
    3 2x Gray
    4 Green
    5 Gray + Green
    6 Red
    7 Gray + Red
    8 2x Gray + Red
    9 Green + Red
    10 Gray + Green + Red
    11 Blue
    12 Gray + Blue
    13 2x Gray + Blue
    14 Green + Blue
    15 Gray + Green + Blue
    16 Red + Blue
    17 Gray + Red + Blue
    18 2x Gray + Red + Blue
    19 Green + Red + Blue
    20 Gray + Green + Red + Blue
    21 2x Blue

    As you can see the max stack size for units up to 20 is 4 which is much easier to count from a distance and should stick the board no problem.  The chips hold together very nicely.  I will post a pic when I get all the chips done.

  • '13

    Nicely planned out to reduce the max stack size. Now, with the right mounting hardware (and a large enough wall :-)) you’ll be able to display a game as artwork!

  • '18 '17 '16

    Would you be willing to share your edited file? I would be very interested in printing it myself with your additions.

    Thanks!


  • @siparo:

    Would you be willing to share your edited file? I would be very interested in printing it myself with your additions.

    Thanks!

    Yeah me too actually!

  • Sponsor

    Great job Cyanight,

    I love to see members take the time and effort to take their gaming experience to another level. I like your Research and Development charts a lot better than mine, if you help the other members print their own version of your map, I will recommend you for a customizer badge.

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