What’s New in Axis & Allies Pacific 1940 and Europe 1940 Second Editions

| September 14, 2012 | 41 Comments

The release of Axis & Allies Pacific 1940 Second Edition and Axis & Allies Europe 1940 Second Edition is nearly here. So what’s new in this edition? Will you need to buy a new copy of the game?

In short, the changes mostly revolve around the rules. The new rules are based heavily on the Axis & Allies 1940 Alpha +3 ruleset on Harris Game Design, which represents quite a few changes from the first edition. Since the map is the same, this is  good news for existing owners of the game who are looking to save some money. Existing owners will only miss out on a nice rule book and the new and a ton of new pieces.

Please note the differences in this article are between the First Editions and the Second Editions of the game and not the “Alpha” rules.


The map is exactly the same with the exception of a production chart running across the top of the board. The dimensions are the same, the territories are the same, some of the lines don’t quite match up the same, and some of the colors are slightly different the same.


Second Edition games come with approximately 50 more pieces each as well as the new Antiaircraft Artillery unit for each country. There are also a several new sculpts for the units in these editions including all new unique pieces for ANZAC and Italy.

  • USA
    • Antiaircraft Artillery: M1 90mm
  • UK
    • Antiaircraft Artillery: QF 3.7 inch
    • Artillery: 25 pounder
    • Mechanized Infantry: Priest
    • Destroyer: Saumarez
    • Submarine: Truculent
  • France
    • Artillery: Same as USSR (152mm Howitzer)
    • Antiaircraft Artillery: Same as USSR (M1939 85mm)
    • Naval Transport: Same as USSR (Baltic Timber Ship)
  • USSR
    • Antiaircraft Artillery: M1939 85mm
    • Artillery: 152mm Howitzer
    • Naval Transport: Baltic Timber Ship
    • Infantry: new sculpt
    • Artillery: BL 5.5 inch
    • Antiaircraft Artillery: L/70 40mm
    • Mechanized Infantry: Ram-Kangaroo
    • Tank: AC1 Sentinel
    • Fighter: CA-12
    • Tactical Bomber: TB.Mk.1
    • Strategic Bomber: PV=1
    • Battleship: Warspite
    • Aircraft Carrier: Majestic
    • Cruiser: Same as UK (same as first edition)
    • Destroyer: Tribal
    • Submarine: S
    • Naval Transport: Monowai
  • Germany
    • Antiaircraft Artillery: Flak 41 8.8cm
  • Italy
    • Artillery: Cannone da 75/32
    • Antiaircraft Artillery: Cannone da 90/53
    • Mechanized Infantry: SPA Dovunque 35
    • Tank: M15/42
    • Fighter: C.202
    • Tactical Bomber: SM.79
    • Strategic Bomber: P.108
    • Battleship: Littorio
    • Aircraft Carrier: Aquila
    • Cruiser: Zara
    • Destroyer: Soldati
    • Submarine: Marconi
    • Naval Transport: Iridio Mantovani
  • Japan
    • Antiaircraft Artillery: Type 88 75mm
    • Mechanized Infantry: Type 1


The game setup has changed from First Edition to the new Second Edition games.

Take a look at the Setup Chart for Axis & Allies Europe 1940 Second Edition and the Setup Chart for Axis & Allies Pacific Second Edition.


With regard to game phases, movement, attack, and so on, the basics have not changed. Most of the units operate the same. The list below goes through nearly all of the rules changes.

Please stay tuned as this section is currently incomplete and will be continually updated over the next few days.

Antiaircraft Artillery

Gone are the days of the generic, country-neutral Antiaircraft gun. Now, each country has their own unit for defending against aircraft. These units were first introduced in the Global 1940 “Alpha” rules on Harris Game Design but, officially, the first game with them is Axis & Allies 1942 Second Edition.

At the beginning of combat each AAA gun can fire at 3 aircraft but two AAA guns cannot fire at the same aircraft.  What this means is that you never roll more dice than there are attacking aircraft. For instance, if defender has 2 AAA guns and the attacker has 3 aircraft, the defender rolls three dice. Each roll of a 1 is a hit and the aircraft is removed immediately. The AAA unit may be taken as a casualty and it may not be captured. Aside from the antiaircraft capability, it has no attack and no defense value. They may only move during the non-combat phase. Therefore, when transporting AAA units on naval transports, they may only be loaded and unloaded during the non-combat movement phase.

Global Rules

Victory Conditions

The victory conditions for the Global game have changed slightly. Allied victory is roughly the same but the Axis can win with either 8 victory cities in Europe or 6 victory cities in the Pacific, as long as they control an Axis capital.

Political Situation

Several changes were made to the political situation in the game.

National Objectives

A few National Objectives were added and the wording of others were clarified.


In addition to the normal setup, add the following. The changes are underlined.

  • Amur: 6 Soviet infantry
  • Sakha: 6 Soviet infantry and 2 Soviet AAA
  • Buryatia: 6 Soviet infantry
  • Egypt: 2 ANZAC infantry and remove 1 UK infantry
The starting IPCs are as follows. Changes are underlined.
  • Germany: 30
  • Soviet Union: 37
  • Japan: 26
  • United States: 52
  • China: 12
  • United Kingdom – Europe: 28
  • United Kingdom – Pacific: 17
  • Italy: 10
  • ANZAC: 10
  • France: 19

Additional Rules

The industrial complexes in Western US, Central US, and Eastern US start as Minor ICs and are automatically upgraded when the US enters a state of war.

If the Soviet Union attacks Korea or any Japanese controlled territory bordering Mongolia, then Mongolia will never join Soviet Union.

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Category: Axis & Allies Europe 1940 Second Edition, Axis & Allies Pacific 1940 Second Edition, Board Games

About the Author (Author Profile)

David Jensen has been operating Axis and Allies.org since 2000 and writing about Axis & Allies since 1997.

Comments (41)

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  1. TheVenocWarlord says:

    Awesome! These pics of the board also look sharper than the others I have seen for the 1st edition, which is great.

    Too bad France still has not got its own sculpts yet; but it does not bother me as much as it may others.

    I’ll be checking this page regularly for updates to the rest of this page. 😉

    Thanks for getting these out to us!

  2. Bob_A_Mickelson says:

    I noticed one change on the Pacific map. 1st Edition “British Columbia” and “Yukon Territory” with Canadian roundels have been merged into 2nd Ed “Western Canada with a UK roundel. Definitely wont matter in 99.99998% of games but nevertheless it is a change.

  3. cwwgateway says:

    I also think it is strange that the 2 canadian territories were morphed into one british one, especially since they stay the same on the pacific one. Interestingly, in the Pacific 1st edition rulebook, the picture of the map has Western Canada with a British roundel (even though the actual map had 2 Canadian territories). The only thing that I can think of is that in Global Alpha 3, the Pacific Canadian territories’ IPCs are controlled by the UK Europe economy, which is represented by the UK roundel (as opposed to the Union Jack roundel for the Pacific Economy).

    My other thoughts are that the IPC chart doesn’t have enough IPCs on it and I’m excited about the new sculpts. I’ve ordered Europe 1940 2nd edition from coolstuffinc, and I am going to use it with Pacific 1st edition (which I own).

  4. Znieh says:

    Also they fixed the error on the Pacific map where sea zone 5 touched Korea. Also what are the new German and Japenese artillery pices?

  5. Darren Taylor says:

    Since I really don’t have the cash for the new editions. I figured out a way to use the old anti aircraft gun pieces, the generic white ones in thier place. Just mark them with a control marker of whatever country they belong to and put the appropriate amount of grey chips under them like any other unit.
    I printed off the new set ups and set each game up to get a look at the changes. The changes in Europe are very cool, especially turning germany and italy into the military powerhouse that they should be at the start of the game. Like giving Germany 11 infantry on their capital. And Giving them a major IDC in place of the minor one. That’s the way it should have been all along. It saves Germany from having to blow $20 for the upgrade that is very nessescary for the war against Russia. And giving Russia that fourth IDC in Ukaraine will make life very interesting on that front. Other then shuffling a few units around not much else happened.
    Now Pacific is a puzzle. They practically striped Japan of it’s ability to make war. Where did all the bombers go? No one, I mean no one has any strategic bombers at the beginning of the game now. And I’m not sure why.

  6. cwwgateway says:

    @Darren Taylor
    The setup is actually wrong for Japan (in writing) – there are 2 strategic bombers in the territory of Japan (see the setup card picture). As for Japan’s war ability, it does seem like the large decrease in air units is bad, but I think its at least partially made up by the increase in land units.

    I am curious what the NOs are for global and for the individual games (specifically Pacific, as I’m not buying the 2nd edition of it).

  7. CCaine says:

    I have the 1st editionin (2010) europe 1942. Is the Pacific 1940 Second Edition compatible with the 1st Edition game?

  8. David Jensen says:

    CCaine, the differences in the games are mostly with regard to the rules and the number and shape of the units. The only map changes were on the Pacific map so the most backward compatible combination would be what you want Europe 1940 1st Edition + Pacific 1940 2nd Edition. All of the new Global rules are listed in both editions.

    The only thing that you won’t have is the new Europe 1940 SE rules, which doesn’t matter for Global.

  9. Otahere34 says:

    If the IPC trackers only go to 40, how are you supposed to keep track of the US income.

  10. TheVenocWarlord says:

    Use Addition.

  11. hardyworld says:

    Are the chips included in the 2nd Ed. the same as the 1st? Or are they the new chips like in A&A 1942 2nd Ed.?

  12. David Jensen says:

    The chips are the same as 1st Edition but different than Axis & Allies 1942 Second Edition.

  13. hardyworld says:

    Follow-up concerning the chips: Which set of chips do you generally prefer? Did they just use the same chips as the 1st Ed. to keep a 1st Ed. game compatible with a 2nd Ed. game?

  14. Spriggs says:

    What should I get pacific 1 st edition or 2nd edition I am already getting Europe 2nd edition

  15. Darren Taylor says:

    I kind of like the new chips better. The new green ones are kind of handy, representing three units and with them being thinker and just a little smaller in diameter, they’re easier to pick up off the board, and they fit easier into crowded game spaces.
    By the way everyone, I just finished my first game of Europe 1940 second edition and Germany absolutely crushed the Soviet Union. The rolled over France on turn one and then in turn two it was on like donkey kong. The Axis won a very solid victory one turn six. With the British and the Americans standing there with a stupid look on their face, saying “What happened?”. The US managed to land in Africa and Normandy but the UK stayed trapped on their island.
    I think maybe Wizards might have gone little too far the other way now and they might need to dial Germany back a bit in an errata page or something. I mean, Russia has no chance.

  16. z0m4d says:

    We just played two games. Germany ignored USSR both times and attempted to capture UK (Operation Sea Lion). He was successful one game, possibly because I was used to not taking the threat too seriously in previous version. However, he was unsuccessful the second time, possibly because of a couple tactical oversights. I blocked an early amphibious assault with a remaining French ship that impeded movement, and later the three USSR aircraft finished off destroying a couple damaged German battleships that the UK couldn’t quite destroy.

    In both games, USSR had built quite an army and was ready to crush Eastern Europe. It seems Germany has good chances on either front, and has the USSR peace treaty time to decide which one.

  17. Darren Taylor says:

    Operation Sea Lion is not the brightest tactic ever concieved. The few times I’ve tried in previous iterations, it never worked. I haven’t tried it in any edition of 1940. It’s just way too easy for the UK to see you coming and get ready by simply piling on with infantry. I mean yea Germany starts out with a bunch of extra stuff now but they still only have that one Transport to start with in the Baltic sea and that just aint gonna cut it.
    And while you’re fiddling around with the UK, Russia has time to wall up their boarder.
    What’s next, going after the U.S.?

  18. z0m4d says:

    Darren, you’re right, Op Sea Lion isn’t feasible in previous versions against capable and wary opponents. But because Germany can choose to ignore USSR for 4 rounds in this game, I think it becomes a viable option. The Luftwaffe alone is enough to destroy or drive away the UK navy. It only took one transport to lay waste to the UK defense in my game, as Germany counted most losses on the aircraft. It wasn’t cost effective, but that doesn’t matter if you can take the capital.

    Sure, UK could probably survive the onslaught if he bought nothing but infantry. However, in that case Africa is lost and UK is impotent the remainder of the game as income and capability dwindles away. (Twenty infantry on an island do no good if the attack never comes and you have no navy.) If Germany pivots at the right moment to face USSR, he may be able to push to Moscow before USA can liberate France or Africa. Or if UK tries to defend and play UK, he may find himself vulnerable to the amphibious assault. I’ll have to play test this idea more.

  19. z0m4d says:

    Meant “Or if UK tries to defend the homeland and play Africa…”

  20. Darren Taylor says:

    It appears that I owe you some credit. I’m in round three of a global game. I drew Germany and decided to give Op Sea Lion a try. I just landed in London and took it with ease. When I took London, it instantly drew the US and Soviet Union into the war. Russia came at me with a wall of infantry supported with a few tanks, artillary, and planes on their next turn and I managed to hold them off. Now I have to turn my full attention on them.

  21. z0m4d says:

    Darren, I think it adds a lot of game value that we can try these other strategic objectives. Good luck and have fun!

  22. Darren Taylor says:

    We just finished our Global game with an Axis victory. Japan won the day on turn 8 by taking Honolulu. The US tried to take it back but were unsuccessful. It’s hard to take on two Aircraft Carriers with full compliment of fighters, a cruiser, destroyer, and sub. The US transports didn’t even get to unload. They had to turn back. It’s kind of a shame too because the US had managed to liberate London, land in Normandy, Norway, take most of north Africa and Rome. But it was too late. Even with Germany and Italy in considerbale trouble, the Axis still turned out the win under the second edition global victory conditions.

  23. Darren Taylor says:

    @David Jensen
    I was wondering if you were ever going to post the revamped National Objectives for the individual theatres? It would be a great help to those of us who can’t afford to buy them again.
    Thank You

  24. Rick Bledsoe says:

    I purchased both 1940 2nd editions when they released them. The last game we had played was revised so lots of changes. Airbases, naval bases, multi AAA’s, cruisers and so on and so forth. If anyone has any advise on different tactics/strategies then let me hear em. I see lots of things I want to try but not enough chances to pull them off. We have played one Europe, 2 Pacific and one global game and axis has had no wins yet. Lots of mistakes messed em up each game. Unescorted transports is my favorite thing. You should get bonus IPC’s from sinking loaded transports…just a thought. Everyones complaint so far is US not getting into the game for 3 turns. They get really really bored. Should either axis in either game drag them into the game earlier?

    Oh. The top of the board has the IPC chart up to 40. Once you hit 40 you place another marker at the start to show you excess. 48 would be one on 40 one on 8. Any other questions?

  25. z0m4d says:

    @Rick, I play two house rules: 1) when you buy a tech roll, you get to roll each turn until you roll a “6,” and 2) casualties from a battleship or cruiser amphibious assault bombardment do not get to return fire.

    I think taking out a transport with units is reward enough, and not necessary for an IPC bonus.

    I usually play one-on-one games, so having the US sit out 3 rounds isn’t that boring; there are other countries to play during that time.

    The Allies gain a huge advantage when they’re finally at war, so the Axis should do that only if the surprise attack has compensating value (like a run on Moscow or Ottawa).

    Your way of tracking 48 IPCs works, but it shouldn’t be necessary to keep a marker on the 40 spot. Obviously if the income is that high, you’d know it’s 48 and not 8.

  26. Rick Bledsoe says:

    The tech roll rule is understandable but your 2nd rule is an actual A&A rule. Any casualties from amphibious bombardments don’t get to fire back. They (like submarine sneak attack casualties) are removed immediately before attackers fire step. One thing I and many don’t like is the fact that you can no longer hold ships back from naval combat to participate in shore bombardment in the same sea zone. But it’s not that big of a deal. It’s understandable.

  27. chris says:

    Hey Rick, all the versions I have played with the rules state in one manner or another the defender gets to fire after being chosen as a casualty.

    For each hit, the defender
    will move a defending unit behind the casualty strip. These
    casualties will be able to defend during the land combat step
    before they are eliminated.

    Roll one die for each battleship and cruiser that can
    conduct bombardment. Battleships hit on a die roll of “4”
    or less, and cruisers hit on a “3” or less. For each hit, the
    defender will move a defending unit behind the casualty
    strip. These casualties will be able to defend during the
    land combat step before they are eliminated.

  28. Roger Cox says:

    I’m still having trouble decideing what version to buy. I hate buying both big games AGAIN, but the extra units and rules make it tempting. Is it true there are now rules that you can enter neutral countries? Also (and I’ve wondered this for a long time) if a AA gun is on a transport, out in a sea zone, and an enemy plane flies over, would the AA gun get a shot at it? Also, you mentioned the rule about AA guns no longer being generic. If they take their shots at incoming airplanes, and miss, nothing happens at that moment, right? The planes don’t get a free shot at them now or some other weird new rule, do they? I ask because you said that AA guns can be taken as losses now,and since they have no attack or defense value in a normal combat (with no air involved), seems the thing to do isalways take them as losses first. Finally, some version of the rules force players to protect transports at all costs, taking transports as casualties ONLY after all other units have been eliminated. Has this crazy rule been added to the monster Europe/Pacific second edition games? I’d appreciate it if you’d e-mail me at [redacted] , since I don’t know if I’ll ever find this site again.

    Thanks for the help and the information,


  29. John Doe says:

    I bought the second edition (both games, pacific and europe) 2 weeks ago and I foud that Germany always win. I played a couple of games and Germany declares war on USSR at turn 2 and then they rush toward Moscow. I found that even if USSR is piling up in Moscow there is nothing they can do against the tons of infantry and tanks Germany is sending to Moscow.

    I tried different alternatives (leaving an infantry behind to prevent Germany from blitzing, trying to resist in Leningrad, making two big piles one in Leningrad and the other one in Stalingrad and finally I bought a lot of tanks and infantry to counter attack Germany) but all these things were unsuccesful. Germany always manages to get Moscow even if no planes are present at all, all planes staying in France to prevent UK to built a fleet (has been destroyed at turn 1)

    I find it very annoying because I like the game. Does anybody have the same problem? Any suggestions?

  30. Son of the Confederacy says:

    I use the Spring 1942 production chart and it works well, I find that the chart on the Global board does not work well due to the markers being inadvertanly knocked off during play.

  31. E Harvey says:

    We just played 2nd edition Europe, and Germany took Moscow on turn 6. Italy had some good luck early and held the Med as a private lake. As a result the Italians were able to take the entire Mid East and helped ther Germans in Caucasus. The US was encroaching on North Africa but Britain had a hard time maintaining a viable navy. we have been thinking about experimenting with house rules to create Vichy at the fall of France. More later.

  32. Jan says:

    I have the 1. ed. of both games.
    I would like to buy the AAA pieces here: http://www.historicalboardgaming.com/Europe-40-2nd-Ed-2012_c_238.html
    But how many does the 2. ed. games come with for each country??


    Should I go all in and buy the two 2. ed.??

    Thanks in advance 😉

  33. Mike says:

    This is a really fun game. I just finished a game of Europe 1940, and I was able to spin off an Axis victory.

    In Germany’s first turn, I gathered up all of my aircraft, minus strategic bombers, and completely destroyed the British fleet. The Bismarck entered into the North Sea, to be joined by the Graf Zeppelin. I bought the carrier (very risky move), and some planes, but my luck managed to hold. France disintegrated like a wall of sand on Turn 1, but I paid no attention to Russia. And, last but not least, the U-boats were about half destroyed, but I downed all the Atlantic convoys.

    To speed things up, Russia attacked on their first turn, only to be beaten back by 1 German infantry in Romania (I promoted him). The UK flew in some planes and liberated Normandy by air, but their bombers with no support were goners next turn. The Italians did an amphibious invasion of Syria, pushing down to capture Egypt from two sides. All of Africa fell from there. Using Iceland as a new base for capital ships, I used more planes to capture Scotland (it was recaptured).

    With Africa down, I turned my attention to the USSR. On Germany’s Turn 2, Russia absolutely collapsed. Once the frontier lines were smashed, I was able to besiege Leningrad immediately. That was a tough nut to crack, though, and Moscow fell before it did. With Russia down (eventually), I turned back to Britain. The US, now a powerhouse, invaded Africa by land and South Africa by air. The Italians beat them back to Morocco, landing a bomber in captured Gibraltar. The US planes were driven back to French West and destroyed.

    From there, it was almost comical to see the Allies’ efforts. The US bought a carrier, it was sunk by Italian ships a turn later. The US bought a battleship, it was sunk by U-boats a turn later. The UK didn’t even bother building any more ships. The Italians ended up capturing the Panama Canal, while Germany kept away US planes with the Graf Zeppelin. Finally, without help and ground down, London was captured from Scotland. I built up more in Iceland. I landed in Newfoundland, building it up to 6 infantry and 6 tanks. Canada was wiped away, and Washington fell a couple of turns later. FDR, Churchill, and Stalin were marched away to some German prison.

  34. Jeff says:

    I just got europe and pacific 1st edition on ebay for a good deal. Is there somewhere to get the 2nd edition pieces? Are they really that different to where I should get them? I was thinking of italy and anzac since they have new units, but what about the rest? Is it worth it?

    The historical board gaming’s piece by piece selling of the units is rediculous. by the time you get one army, you have spent almost half of the cost of the whole board game..

  35. Luke says:

    I play my dad and he always beats me in the USSR.I have the first edition.
    Any suggestions?

  36. Marc says:

    On axis and allies 1940 2nd edition, can russia declare war on Japan or move into turkey or afghanistan? Also I find it hard to understand that spain wouldnt be pro axis since germany supported them in the civil war and were fascist

  37. Randall says:

    Marc, while its true that Germany supported the Nationalists in Spain, the USSR and other allies supported their adversaries. The Spanish armed forces were in no shape to make a difference in the World war by that time.

  38. Mike says:

    I just purchased Europe 1940 and Pacific 1940 both second editions. I am wanting to play more of a classic game on the larger maps though because I have 3 first time players. I haven’t opened up these games yet because I wanted to know if I could play the 1942 2nd edition rules on this map in order to teach.

    Thanks for your help!

  39. Scott says:

    @luke just build infantry and be willing to sacrifice small territories so you can build up before the battle

  40. krock says:

    Why is the atlantic ocean so small? Bombers should not be able to travel from america to europe for a bombing raid. This is a big oversight. Has anyone else noticed this? Is there any way to adjust for this? Bombers used to travel via iceland to get to europe, but this is not needed with current versions. Any ideas?

  41. Matt says:

    Marc, you are correct, Spain should be pro Axis. After all they did send 18,000 men to the eastern front and provide facilities to resupply German Uboats. They just wanted to keep their support on the down low because they were destitute and could not provide the support needed to contend with the allied powers.

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