Posts made by Sir_Cala

Send me a pm I can email what I have.

I picked it up a year or two ago…Its alot of fun. I need to play it more.

Its a cross between of Shogun and Fortress America. The are clarity issues with the rules.
I did buy extra colored dice. As the territory you are defending one determines what die you roll on.

mountain terrain is gray use gray d12
forest terrain is green use green d10
all other is d8 defense and attacking unless you use a card that changes your attack or defend die.

I created a draw deck place mat based on someone else’s that helped game play with rules when you had papal disfavor drawing less cards.

http://www.conquestgaming.com/warlords/

FAQ and additional scenarios.

Pulled some stuff off of game geek that helped clear up things.

this helped alot.

Warlords of Europe
S R McDougall, 26th May 2010 V1.1
Setup

• Each player takes 1 castle, 2 warlords, 2 knights, 2 archers,
2 swordsmen, 12 spearmen

• Each player rolls 1d8 and chooses Initiative card
(highest roller first)

• In Initiative Order: choose a Kingdom

• In Initiative Order: place castle in any region of Kingdom and 1
warlord in any other fief in Kingdom

• In Initiative Order: distribute remaining units between castle and warlord areas

Sequence of Play

Each player completes (i) – (iv) in Initiative Order:
P(i) Campaign Manoeuvres (Attacks)
P(ii) Resolve Battles
P(iii) Manoeuvre Reserves (Strategic Move)
P(iv) Draw Conquest Card if any fiefs conquered

Then complete Group Phases one at a time in Initiative Order
G(i) Draw Pope Card and check for Victory
G(ii) Play Taxation cards and receive Income
G(iii) Buy units, castles, and/or mercenaries
G(iv) Place units, castles and/or mercenaries in friendly fiefs
G(v) Roll 1d8 (upgradable to d10 or d12) and determine
new Initiative Order
G(vi) Buy 1 Merchant card for 4 gold if desired in new Initiative Order

Victory:

• If player owns more than half the completed castles on the board
(all castles in 2P games) and every other player has had at least 1
subsequent turn

Player Actions

P(i) Campaign Manoeuvres (Attacks)
• Move units onto borders of non-friendly neighbouring fiefs
– generally units move 1 area only
– knights and warlords can move 2 areas but must stop when
entering non-friendly area
• warlord can pick up and take other units along with him
• Note that a friendly fief remains friendly only if at least 1 friendly unit is
present at the end of the player turn (so you can safely vacate a fief temporarily)

P(ii) Resolve Battles (NB 15 unit maximum in mountains at end of turn)
• Resolve one battle at a time: consult hit table on summary card
• An empty fief is defended by peasants (= no. of cities present)

• Archers roll first and casualties removed
– archers attacking a castle fief only hit on 6 or higher
– archers defending a castle fief hit on 4 or higher
• Other soldiers then roll and casualties removed
• Attacker generally rolls 1d8 per unit
• Defenders generally rolls 1d8 in red plains
1d8 in orange farmlands
1d10 in green forests/unfinished castles
1d12 in grey mountains/finished castles
• Defender chooses casualties first
• Repeat battle rounds as necessary or until attacker retreats
– retreats are to a single adjacent departure area
• Mutual annihilation: fief reverts to peasant control
– unless castle present: defender places a free spearman

• Warlord must be last casualty in a peasant battle
– return to a friendly castle not to stock

• Warlord chosen as a casualty in a player battle
– captured by enemy and placed in any enemy castle
– only returned to owner via negotiation/card play/rescue

• If a castle fief captured
– place construction token if castle was finished (damage)
– draw a bonus Conquest card
– collect 15 gold from treasury if loser still owns a castle
• 30 gold plus all opponents cards and gold if not
– buy and/or hire and deploy soldier units immediately into
any friendly castles if desired

P(iii) Manoeuvre Reserves (Strategic Move)
• Move any/all units that did not attack during P(i)
– even into newly-conquered fief

• 15 soldiers maximum in any mountain fief at turn end
– no limit if fief is a castle fief

P(iv) Draw 1 Conquest Card if any fiefs conquered this turn

Group Phases

G(i) Draw Pope Card and check for Victory
• Resolve any “Immediately” cards drawn
• Note that “Papal Disfavour” cards played against a player can be
ignored but at a cost (place card face-up in front of disfavoured player):
– 1st disfavour: cannot draw a Pope card
– 2nd disfavour: cannot draw a Pope/Merchant card
– 3rd disfavour: cannot draw any type of card

G(ii) Play Taxation cards and receive Income
• Must control at least 1 castle to receive income. No castle: no income
– 1 gold in red plains
– 3 gold in orange farmlands
– 2 gold in green forests
– 1 gold in grey mountains
– 12 gold for a finished castle if entire host Kingdom controlled
– 6 gold for any castle if player controls more fiefs in host
Kingdom than any other single player
• no additional bonus for having more than 1 castle in any
  single Kingdom

G(iii) Buy units, castles, and/or mercenaries
• You may only build 1 castle per Kingdom
– costs 6 gold to start (add construction token)
– costs 6 gold to finish in a later turn (remove construction token)
• Cannot buy new warlords if any of your existing warlords is a prisoner
• Hire mercenaries (no mercenary warlords allowed)
– cost = unit price + 1 gold
– all mercenaries must be paid for every turn or are lost
• Spearmen are not limited by the counter mix (add chips if necessary)
• Other units are limited by the counter mix
– mercenaries are the way to gain additional archers, knights,
and swordsmen (use chips to signify these)

G(iv) Place units, castles and/or mercenaries in friendly fiefs
• Build/finish castles
• Only 1 soldier (but unlimited mercenaries) can be placed in a single fief
– knights and warlords can only be placed in castle fiefs
• A castle fief can have an unlimited number of units placed there
– unless it was newly built this turn: in which case 1 unit only
• 4 extra spearmen placed in any fief(s) in a wholly owned Kingdom

G(v) Roll 1d8 (upgradable to d10 or d12) and determine
new Initiative Order
• Upgrade to 1d10 for 2 gold or any 1 card
• Upgrade to 1d12 for 4 gold, any 2 cards, or 2 gold plus 1 card

G(vi) Buy 1 Merchant card for 4 gold if desired in new Initiative Order

Player Elimination

• If no more castles owned by a player
– may choose to resign (pieces remain on board)
– may play on (no income but cards can still be drawn)
– however, conquering player can force your units to become his
vassals (i.e. come over to his side)
• must pay gold to treasury to buy all non-mercenary
vassals

shoot me a pm with your email. Ill send you stuff I worked on and save you the hassle.

http://www.axisandallies.org/forums/index.php?topic=32967.0

I made one a while back. I received your pm just send me your email.

I was asking about this one.
https://www.eaglegames.net/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=EGL060

Meaning new compared to the the Game Master series from the 80’s.

Can sea units attack land units?

No.

In other versions of Axis and Allies their is a bombardment rule that lets you attack land units on an amphibious assault.

–------------
Surprise strike from one sub vs another.

Its pointless. Especially when a sub can submerge and not have to defend against an attacking sub.

see the General Combat Sequence.
2. Submarine surprise strike or submerge (sea battles only)

You are correct 2 subs with surprise strike that both roll hits against a Battleship will prevent it from firing back.

@Meltdown:

I’ve played 1941 a couple of times now with a friend, but there are still some things I don’t really understand in the rules…

1.) Can sea units attack land? Or can they only attack what is in a sea zone… i.e ships or planes that take part in the sea battle?

In this game version Battleships do not get to “Bombard” like other games. So no they do not get to fire once during the landing of the land units. Our players house rule and play the Bombard rule.

In this game sea units only battle in sea zones against opponents.

@Sir_Cala:

A submarine either attacks or submerge.

If it attacks and hits a unit with a surprise strike with no destroyer present. The ship that is chosen to be hit does not defend and is removed from the battle board. Exceptions are Battleships. They take 2 hits and the second hit removes it off the battle board.
Repeat steps 2-7 if combat continues.

If a submarine submerges it is not involved in any sea battle.

well this was the reply directly above the post of the information from the rulebook which would hopefully make you understand the process.

I will even can go further in the explanation.
You cannot use surprise strike then submerge in the same combat sequence to avoid being fired upon.

If you choose surprise strike you will be fired upon if any other ships remain on the battle board after your sub fires.
Your subs fire first in step 2.

If your surprise strike attack hits it eliminates an opponents ship and it cannot fire back in step 3 or 4.

That is the benefit of surprise strike.

General Combat Sequence
Combat takes place over a number of rounds. Each battle round consists of several steps.
1. Place units along the battle strip
2. Submarine surprise strike or submerge (sea battles only)
3. Attacking units fire
4. Defending units fire
5. Remove defender�s casualties
6. Press attack or retreat
7. Conclude combat

Can a sub surprise strike another sub? Yes

Subs can use its surprise strike another sub and they both fire in step 2. However if the attacker hits the defending sub 1st the defending sub is moved to the casualty strip gets to fire back and is not eliminated until the end of step 2.

A submarine either attacks or submerge.

If it attacks and hits a unit with a surprise strike with no destroyer present. The ship that is chosen to be hit does not defend and is removed from the battle board. Exceptions are Battleships. They take 2 hits and the second hit removes of the battleboard.
Repeat steps 2-7 if combat continues.

If a submarine submerges it is not involved in any sea battle.

General Combat Sequence
Combat takes place over a number of rounds. Each battle round consists of several steps.
1. Place units along the battle strip
2. Submarine surprise strike or submerge (sea battles only)
3. Attacking units fire
4. Defending units fire
5. Remove defender�s casualties
6. Press attack or retreat
7. Conclude combat

step 2.
submarine surprise strike or submerge (sea Battles only)
This step is specific to attacking and defending submarines.
Before the general sea battle takes place (steps 3�5), both attacking and defending submarines choose to either make a
Surprise Strike die roll or submerge. However, if your opponent has a destroyer in the battle, your attacking or defending
submarines cannot submerge or make a Surprise Strike. Combat proceeds normally, and your submarines fire along with your
other units in step 3 or 4.
Submerge: Attacking or defending submarines that choose to submerge are immediately removed from the battle strip and
returned to the game board in the contested sea zone, removing them from the rest of that sea battle.
Players on both sides have to decide whether attacking and defending submarines will fire or submerge before rolling any dice.
The attacking player decides first.
Surprise Strike: Each attacking submarine conducting a Surprise Strike rolls one die, scoring a hit on a roll of �2� or less.
After the attacker has rolled for all attacking submarines, the defender chooses one sea unit for each hit scored and moves it
behind the casualty strip. (Submarines cannot hit air units.) Then each defending submarine conducting a Surprise Strike rolls
one die, scoring a hit on a roll of �1.� After the defender has rolled for all defending submarines, the attacker chooses one sea
unit for each hit scored and removes it from play.
Once all Surprise Strike rolls have been made, remove the defender�s casualties. This step is over for this round of
combat. Repeat this step during each round of combat as long as there are attacking and/or defending submarines and no
opposing destroyers. Any hits made during this step that do not destroy units (such as battleships) remain in effect until the
end of the combat.
Note: In both cases, attacking or defending, transports can be chosen as casualties only if there are no other eligible units.
You cannot choose submerged submarines as casualties since they have been removed from the battle.

Fixed America’s starting Income.

Added the adjusted set up changes. Included unchanged countries so you do not have to pass around the rule book.

SETUP

USSR: Add 3 infantry to Russia
USA: Add 1 infantry to Northwestern China and 1 destroyer to sea zone 11

If you want an origianal copy just pm me.

It is a tie at zero to zero for island control who owns the island with no land units there.

Does it revert to who controlled the Island? Based on the tie rule.

ok just making sure.

You cannot stop in a Sea Zones with an Island or Coastline that contain Japanese controlled Territories.

In addition, the United States may not end the movement of its sea units in sea zones that are adjacent to
Japanese-controlled territories. Sea Zones 17, 22, 32, 33, 34, and 37.

Can the US park ships in Sea Zones 7 and 16 next to Sea Zone 6 that contains the Island of Japan?

I played the old one once or twice and noticed it was swayed based on the units you had in your force.

Is it any better now?

Thanks…just curious if its worth picking up.

Yes it was the first thing I printed up to use looking for game aids.

They look really cool.

Everyone kept losing one or dropping them on the floor.
(I dont know how many times someone has picked up their box with the lid on and the bottom tray falls out and spilled the contents all over the place. I even have one friend that keeps finding a Japanese infantry months after we played at his house. :roll:)

We have set up a small separate table to keep our IPC chart away from the game board and for us the larger objectives with token markers sit out on either side of the IPC chart or can be placed next to the actual player needing to keeptrack of their stuff.

I guess this style just meets our individual needs.

Thanks for the input.

Im using the experience to learn powerpoint.

UK India starting income:  Fixed

I feel my task force cards for 1914 have the borders you are talking about.
For the National Objectives I will tinker with them but I like the larger size:
so you can read the text about the requirements I have a lot of new players and they are always looking in the book to try to remember what the goals are to get them.
Also I like the idea of putting tokens or chips on em so at the end of turn when the question of:
Whats your bonus? its an automatic answer instead of looking at the board another minute trying to figure out.

I had someone ask what are task force cards for:

Task Force cards originally appeared in the 2000 Pacific game.

They are to reduce crowding of units on the board.

Place a task force marker token on the board where all the units are and remove the units from the board.

Take the units and place them on the corresponding task force card off the board.

Instead of moving all the units on the board you just move the token.

see latest post that is pinned title: Battle Board for Axis & Allies 1914, Combat rounds,IPC chart, Task Force Cards

I only made 6 of each if you think I should make some more let me know.

I mainly made these because I need  larger things to see and especially reminders what the national bonuses are for objectives. We always have a new player joining and he does not quite remember what is required to get the bonus.

On the battle board I added information about surprise attacks and anti aircraft as people forget to roll these first, Kamikaze information, and how to do strategic bombing runs.

I mainly made these because I need  larger things to see and especially reminders what the national bonuses are for objectives. We always have a new player joining and he does not quite remember what is required to get the bonus. Only complaint about the battle board is the defense side is blue and the French blend in. But after France is gone it seems to be fine for all the others.

On the battle board I added information about surprise attacks and anti aircraft as people forget to roll these first, Kamikaze information, and how to do strategic bombing runs.

Also made 2 colors for the Axis National Objectives.

I mainly made these because I need  larger things to see and especially reminders what the national bonuses are for objectives. We always have a new player joining and he does not quite remember what is required to get the bonus. Only complaint about the battle board is the defense side is blue and the French blend in. But after France is gone it seems to be fine for all the others.

On the battle board I added information about suprise attacks and anti aircraft as people forget to roll these first, Kamikaze information, and how to do strategic bombing runs.