• Somehow  we got off the topic of box art.


  • @LuckyDay:

    Product Description on Funagain…

    Axis & Allies celebrates 25 years of strategy war gaming with a deluxe edition of its original theater-level game. Axis & Allies Pacific 1940, designed and developed by Larry Harris, utilizes the updated rules established in A&A Anniversary Edition. Two new combat units debut in this game, Tactical Bombers and Mechanized Infantry. Australia and New Zealand, joined together as the ANZAC forces, represent a new playable ally. China fields more forces than ever before, but will need help from their allies – the United States and England – to withstand the might of expansionist Imperial Japan.
    Axis & Allies Pacific 1940 features an oversized board that measures 35 inches wide by 32 inches high. With over 450 pieces, deluxe game components and local storage boxes, this game raises the standard established by A&A Anniversary Edition. All new rules for neutral nations, naval & air bases, kamikaze attacks and convoy disruption add even more depth and historical accuracy to this giant game.
    Finally, this deluxe theater-level game is designed to join together with Axis & Allies Europe 1940 to create the greatest Axis & Allies experience to date! When joined, these boards will measure 5 feet wide by 32 inches high. Both games have been designed to play alone or together to offer a 2-6 player global 1940 scenario, complete with separate set up and national objectives.

    Is my math wrong or did someone make a mistake???

    Assuming that the AAP40 and AAE40 boards are the same size, 32 inches is definitely the height but the widths are different!!!  Is it 5ft (60 inches) or 70 inches the width of the global game???

    :?

  • '17 '16 '15 Organizer '14 Customizer '13 '12 '11 '10

    32 x 70 combined, so 32 x 36 each


  • @Imperious:

    32 x 70 combined, so 32 x 36 each

    Wouldn’t that be 32 x 35 each?

  • '17 '16 '15 Organizer '14 Customizer '13 '12 '11 '10

    typo, yes your correct.


  • That should be big enough to hold a lot of pieces.


  • I’m so excited about the new size but at the same time I’m thinking of where the heck I’m going to put this monstrosity. I’ll need to buy another dining room table!


  • Just build a game room, no big deal.


  • We have played on 1/2 a ping pong table before. I guess we’ll just have to take down the net now. 😄


  • @WILD:

    We have played on 1/2 a ping pong table before. I guess we’ll just have to take down the net now. 😄

    YES, I have one of those. Great idea Bill! LOL at Brain Damaged, I’ll just convert my garage to the A&A room. Needs A/C though….


  • You can get one of those window AC’s at Costco for about $200 which is cheaper than AA50


  • Sad but true……

  • 2021 '20 '19 '18 '17 '16 '15 '14 Customizer '13 '12 '11 '10

    The setup I use for handling extra-large game boards (like the one for The War Game: World War II) is to place several card tables (the kind with legs that fold for storage) end-to-end.

    I find that card tables work well because they’re inexpensive to buy, they give you the option of getting as many or as few as you need, and they’re usable regardless of whether or not you have space to devote to a full-time gaming area.  If you’re short on space, you can set them up temporarily for a game then fold them and put them away when you’re done.  If on the other hand you have enough room to leave them set up long-term, the space under the row of folding tables can conveniently serve double-duty as storage space for your game equipment.  That’s where I keep the plastic tackle boxes in which I store my A&A sculpts.

    Depending on how smooth the combined surface of the table-tops is, you might want to put something stiff in between the tables and the game board to provide a more level surface (which can be helpful when the game board is in several pieces). Foamcore posterboard is one option; another is a material called (I think) coroplast – basically it’s structured like heavy cardboard, but it’s made out of plastic.  I buy mine at a store that sells artists’ supplies.

    CWO Marc


  • Interesting, so far I have been either using my dining room table, which is about five feet by three feet, or a folding table, which is 2x4. I guess I’ll either buy 1 or two more of those folding tables or make due with my dining room table somehow.


  • I need pictures of the setup!

  • 2021 '20 '19 '18 '17 '16 '15 '14 Customizer '13 '12 '11 '10

    @cannon:

    I need pictures of the setup!

    Here’s what it looks like:

    Gaming Table.JPG


  • whoa france is on it!


  • Is that a game comparitve to axis and allies?


  • I personally never have heard of this game but it looks similar.

  • 2021 '20 '19 '18 '17 '16 '15 '14 Customizer '13 '12 '11 '10

    @Brain:

    I own the game, but have never played it. I think it would be better than Axis and Allies. Maybe CWO Marc could enlighten us.

    I own two copies of TWG (the game board and the sculpts are both of good quality, which is why I bought an extra copy), but I’ve never actually played it. As maverick_76 writes, however, the two games are indeed similar, and an A&A player should have no difficulty making the jump to TWG.  Both games are powered by the same basic four-stroke engine that can be traced all the way back to the original Risk game: income buys units, units fight battles, battles win territory and territory generates income.  In terms of equipment, TWG and A&A both use a variety of plastic military sculpts, and are played on a map which uses an area-movement system, which gives a printed value number to each territory and which show the location of certain major cities.

    One notable thing about TWG is that, in addition to the basic rules (the second edition of which was issued just a few days ago), there are lots of supplementary modules available to cover extra elements like diplomatic relations and air supremacy.  This aspect should particularly appeal to A&A players who like to include lots of detail in their gaming.  You can find the rules and the extra modules here:

    http://www.thewargame.com/fieldmanual.htm

    Another thing which I like about TWG is that the board shows something close to a 1939 configuration rather than the more traditional circa-1942 territorial layout of A&A.  One way this shows up is in the fact that, as idk_iam_swiss noted, France appears as France rather than as some sort of Occupied France / Vichy France combination.  The board isn’t a pure 1939 configuration – for example, it shows in light green the territories (like Mexico) which will side with the U.S. once it enters the war in 1941 – but it’s fairly close to a start-of-the-war set-up for players who are looking for that sort of map.  And the large size of the game board (it comes in three sections, each of which folds into three parts) is another nice element.

    By the way, I’d just like to note that the pieces you see on the board in the picture I posted don’t show a real game of TWG in progress.  The pieces in the photo are for the most part A&A sculpts, supplemented with customized roundels and with other kinds of markers (wooden blocks and plastic Othello/Reversi playing pieces).  At the time the picture was taken, I was just experimenting with ways of using different kinds of pieces to represent certain types of information on a game board.  An actual game of TWG would look different.


  • whoa the diplomacy rules are AMAZING! I have always wanted to include diplomace into the game…but could never figure out how to do it…this is awesome!


  • idk. but I most definatley will implement the whole russia can fight china rule.

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