• i was thinking of making terrain for axis and allies miniatures, it could take a long time though, then i thought i could stick some maps on some gameboard type material, and cut out the hexes, then i could make a shallow base or frame and lay the hex tile’s in any arrangement, instead of using the same maps all the time. has anyone else tried this


  • I had a map just kike that.
    TEMPLATE
        I made a wooden hex template, 3 inches big, with lil nail-heads underneath.Then I used the template to cut out hexes from 3" wide foam board strip with a razor blade (not responsible for severed fingers). Did I forget to mention, I mounted a handle on the template - makes grabbing easier.I cut different thickness of different colors and had interchangeable hexes. I could shuffle my map all up. Trick is to make your wooden template PERFECTLY hexagonal in shape, it must be perfect perfect perfect.
    HEXES
        I cut 3 inch wide (must be precise, consistant 3" width) strips of foamboard to use this on. Cut different thicknesses and different colors to make interchangeable hexes. Each hex will have a blank white back side, that you can draw custom terrain things like rubble, obstacles, etc.
    BASE:
      Get styrofoam panels from Manards, Cut it as wide as you want, and long as you want. (foamboard warps - avoid that for a base). Assemble a bunch of hexes onto it, and straighten them up. Now build a lip around them with something.
      I painted my styrofoam underneath blue. So when I wanted water, I just left an open hex.
    MAPS:
        You can stick a few of these down with long tacks into the strofoam underneath. They will still be a bit loose no matter how well you cut them. You may want to fiddle with them until you get them as you like, then glue them or pin them down, or put plexiglass over it. ut I hate plexiglass, I like to be able to shove pins into the map as I need to mark things.
      I had to give mine up. I kept them all loose and interchangeable with a few pinned down. But semi-feral cats seem to take great joy into wedging them up and all over the place.


  • yeah, i got some 3 mm plywood and cut out pieces from the map, forest’s, town’s, and road’s, and then i stuck them to the plywood, problem’s began when i started cutting up the plywood, it took about 5 minutes to cut out a hex, and then i had to sand the edge’s, and after all that the hex’es did’nt even fit together properly.
    i’m thinking i might use foam board,
    why the different thicknesses?.


  • I use 1/4 inch thick for normal terrain. I use thicker green foamboard for woods, so they stick up higher. I use thicker grey foam for buildings so they also stick up. I dont use terrain as such, but color code the terrain and go by thickness to differentiate.


  • yeah , thank’s for the information, i was thinking of changing the colour of some of my sherman m4a1’s, are there any camoflague pattern’s that are historically accurate, also for t34/76’s.


  • US tanks rarely had camoflague paint. But I have seen these:
    *** Olive paint with Khaki camo (europe)
    *** Olive paint with Khaki and brown camo (marines)
    *** Olive paint with Charcoal grey camo (europe)
    *** Olive paint with Khaki camo borderd in thin Char’ grey (ficticious, I just like it)
    *** Khaki colored with med brown camo (africa)
    *** Khaki colored with med brown camo, lined in black
    *** Khaki colored with Charcoal grey camo (africa)







  • i had a look at your website, do you supply and paint the fortifications and bunker’s or just paint them for the quoted price, are they a 3 inch hex or smaller.


  • Hello,
      Those particular Bunkers were scratchbuilt, so price included everything. They were mounted on 2" hexes. But I have made 1, 1&1/2, and 3" sizes too. I have also made bunkers complete with removeable guns, and lined in front with barbed wire. I love bunkers and anything “engineering”.

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