# Combining SPI's ETO with A&A

• I just got SPI’s ETO for real cheap at a thrift store. It seems to be a cool game with a excellent hex map. I have  been pondering how to combine ETO with A&AE. Using A&A pieces lowering the complexity but, being more advanced than A&AE and using this cool map. One thing I was considering was using the Order of Battle from ETO which is probably far more accuarate than A&A. My question is, for those who are familiar with this type of game, how would you convert a 6-3, 5-,3, or 4-2 inf to A&A? There is no specific Artillery piece so I thought it would be included in certain inf divisons. I believe this is a divisional game so I was considering make one 6-3 multiple pieces. The movement aspect(the 2nd number 6-3) I might consider keeping constant to keep it simpler but, to represent the different attack values I was considering this:

6-3 inf = 2inf, 1art

5-3 inf= 1inf, 1art

4-2 inf= 1inf

All the rest would have to be convert as well. So anyone with more experience with these type of games than I am if you find this idea intriguing maybe could give me some advice on this project.

Also I have been making the game have 1 piece per hex. The A&A pieces fit pretty well in 1 hex but, chips really are too big and over crowd the map. I am trying to make it kind of like Battle of the Bulge but with a large strategic map. All the rest would have to be convert as well.

• This sounds like a worthy project!
Because the models are so large to the hexes you will have a problem with stacking. That is to say, how many units per hex, and what kind of units can be placed together in one hex. I glued all my Infantry to pennies years ago, ( got tired of them falling over) If you glued them to pennies, and added one or two more pennies to show a greater strength unit or multiply units in the hex. That way you could differentiate the strength of the units. As far as the Armor and other units you could do the same thing, or paint stripes on the top of the engine compartment or turrent to show how many are in the hex, and just change them out as needed. No more than three units per hex, ie; three stripes or pennies=3 units. Air units will be a bit more of a challenge. Either build some sort of a stand, ( [ ) for them that will allow them to hover over the other unit in the hex or make a house rule that allows you to place them next to the hex that you wish to support in the combat phase. Artillery can also be placed next to the hex that you wish to support, behind the front lines, where they belong.
Placing Infantry and armor in the same hex may require the use of the [ stand that I suggested for the air units. Place the tank in the bottom and the Infantry on the top.
Well, I hope this will work for you. Let me know how it works out.
Crazy Ivan

• Thanks for the help! I will be keeping one unit per hex so that they can fit. I will posting pictures and rules for this project and would appreciate any help and advice you would give.

•   Admiral, I have given your project additional thought. And I wonder if you considered using the cardboard counters and placing an appropriate figure on the top of the stack?  ie; A tank on top of a stack that has at least one armor unit in it, etc…

• That could possible work but, do you think it is necessary to have more than one unit per hex?

• I will be giving an overview of this hex based AAE I am playing. I have also found another version of a hex based A&A that has been made before with a custom made map. In some ways I am sure the custom made map maybe superior because it was made specificaly made for A&A but, for all those who don’t have the time or IPC to make your own I think using this map will work fine. The map below is the map I use.

• The other map that I found on boardgamegeek.com is called World War II in the West and looks pretty cool. Good luck though trying to track down a copy.

• Nice pictures.

• The other map that I found on boardgamegeek.com is called World War II in the West and looks pretty cool. Good luck though trying to track down a copy.

I have this and will sell it for basically close to what i was charged for it. It was never used.

• @Imperious:

The other map that I found on boardgamegeek.com is called World War II in the West and looks pretty cool. Good luck though trying to track down a copy.

I have this and will sell it for basically close to what i was charged for it. It was never used.

Was the map that bad or something?  As for me, I have no desire to buy it.  I got a lot of things in life that need more attention first.

• Its like “my science project from 6th grade” this “Map” is some lame crayon drawn thing and its in a million pieces of cheap paper you have to tape together. The pictures make it look alot better than it is.

The guy made some WW1 game and it looks better.

• @Imperious:

Its like “my science project from 6th grade” this “Map” is some lame crayon drawn thing and its in a million pieces of cheap paper you have to tape together. The pictures make it look alot better than it is.

The guy made some WW1 game and it looks better.

I thought from the pictures it might be hand drawn. Well then I guess using my map would be better.

• I have been coming up with Rules to use with this map and a setup for different countries. Any comments and suggestions would be appreciated.

PART I

THE MAP

These are the aspects of the map I am using.

• The Eastern Front

• The Med. Front

• I hate to say this but 2 things:

those hexes are too small for pieces

and secondly,

I redrawn Avalon hills Third Reich map which has like 2 inch hexes and its digital which allows you to send it around.

goto Board Game geek.com and look under AH Third Reich/files/ Imperious Leaders remastered 3R Map in Vector art.

Everything is done like that other map you have except its much larger.

• Well that explains that.  I wish there was some really easy way to create a good hex map.  Have not found out how to do that yet.

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