• I think risk has its place, or places.

    I started playing risk as a kid, when my friend had it and we never even read the directions.  We ended up coming up with our own rules that were closer to A/A with some attack defend rules like Imp. Leader mentioned.
      We played it for years (even using the actual rules at times) until that day when at a hobby shop we saw that glorious box of A/A and jumped right in. 
      It is great with a bunch of people who aren’t committed enough to learn A/A at parties and such, but I do think of it as more of a starting point into strategy games, like stratego.  I think alot of the variants in risk and similar games (attack!) are trying to draw the audience that is not quite ready for A/A or other deeper strategic games.
        2210 is a good variant, but I like the Castle edition better.  It is based in Europe and has a number of empires to control rather than continents, along with cards that give additional reinforcements, diplomacy, spies, admirals, generals and such.  You pick a capital to place your castle chip in, and attacks can only use 2 dice in sieges.  A very nice twist on the classic.  And what was cool was that it had the Europe map on one side and the classic on the other, bonus!
        I’d like to try the Star Wars and LOTR editions, the Napoleon edition looks interesting too.

  • I thought risk was awesome! Then I found A&A classic, later I moved to A&A revise, A&A D-Day….

    I like it b/c its a strategy game you can start with at a young age untill you can move to more complex games like A&A. Like many of you said it has its place, I’m just not there any more.


  • '17 '16 '15 Organizer '14 Customizer '13 '12 '11 '10

    all you do is this:

    Infantry 1-2- cost 2 IPC moves 2
    Cavalry 2-2- cost 3 IPC moves 3
    Artillery 3-3- Cost 4 IPC moves 2

    artillery can either 1) move or attack but not both

    Take territories dont divide. The total value = the IPC you spend on units… when you turn in cards you get the IPC value instead of armies
    If you turn in any cards of territories you onw you get 1 inf.

    thats it. play on

  • Moderator

    OK this is pathetic! This thread is going into its 9th Month! Can someone explain to me what unique, witty, formatic, prose the title contains that has some infernal attachment to the “reply” button?!?!??!

    Venting, after posting and hating this thread in the past…


  • Not to pick a fight but didn’t you just hit the reply button and add to the patheticness (is that a word?) of the thread that you despise so much?

  • Moderator

    ironic isn’t it… Yes I did, but that was before I posted about the Reply button… So this is the “pathetic” post…

  • :lol: That theres funny I don’t care who you are!  :lol:

  • Moderator

    Glad it made you laugh… Making this my second ironic/pathetic post…

  • '17 '16 '15 Organizer '14 Customizer '13 '12 '11 '10

    GG… where have you been?

  • Moderator

    very busy with school… Otherwise tied up with relocating debacles! I am trying to get back to the boards atleast once a month to catch up, and to make my post count look less, um, “thin”… Your looking spazzy though, like the avatar!


  • Well, I just want to say that Risk sucks when compared to A&A games and the like.  It’s like comparing Wolfenstein 3D to more modern games like Halo.  Same genre, but just not the same.  Now, I would have no problem getting down with the old school and playing Wolfenstein, so on the same note, maybe one of these days I’ll have to play Risk again…  🙂

  • '17 '16 '15 Organizer '14 Customizer '13 '12 '11 '10

    Risk Historical Edition:


    1. Get chips like they have in Axis and Allies
    2. Buy a real copy of risk. That would be the one you buy in Europe (specifically Hungry or England). All three units’ molds actually look decent. The chips are now used to indicate more than one (white=1 army, Red = 5 armies, Blue=10 armies).

    Units have new values: (Attack – Defence)
    Infantry:  1-2- cost 3 moves 2
    Cavalry: 2-2- cost 4 moves 3
    Artillery: 3-3- Cost 6 moves 2

    1. At the start of your turn you count your territories and buy more units using the cost values.

    2. The movement factor is the number of different attacks that can be made each turn. Each attack can be of unlimited duration. For example you can attack with infantry, taking a territory and then attack one additional territory. This constitutes 2 movements. Cavalry can perform this up to three times per turn.

    3. During combat if artillery rolls a ONE result they may select the type of unit they want to allocate as a hit. Otherwise this is the choice of the defender.

    4. During combat your cavalry can allow the retreat by the defender of units equal to the number of cavalry forces left defending at the end of a combat round. This is the only case where the defender can retreat.

    5. At the end of combat all units that did not make any attacks can now move within your own territories equal to their movement allowance.

    6. When you get cards they represent the actual piece you get as replacements. If the card is a wild card you get one unit each of all three types. For Example: if you get a Cavalry card then you may place this unit in your controlled territories. Cards are no longer turned in for growing sets.

    7. As usual you draw your card at the end of your turn and you then get to place your forces

    Optional rules:

    Adding new units: (Attack-Defense-Movement-Cost)
    Frigates:  3-4-2-7. These units can pick up two units and drop them off as an invasion.
    Grenadiers (elite infantry): 3-2-2-5
    Generals: +1 for all units in territory in either attack or defense. Each player gets one General, when you conquer somebody you obtain the service of an additional general.
    Fortress/Forts: two rolls of 4 each round, both preemptive (no return fire from hit units). Each level costs 6. Place chips under to denote the value of the fortress.

    Capitals: each player selects a home territory: this territory receives a free fort of 3 levels. If you lose your capital you lose the game.

    Starting Armies:
    Each player starts with 100 point army and the free 3 level fort for his home territory. His home territory is selected first when you randomly select positions. You decide how your army will be constructed.

    Imperious Leader-

  • @murraymoto:

    I think risk has its place, or places.

    Exactly.  I am playing Risk with my 6yr. old stepson right now, wondering when the time is right to bust out the A&A.

  • Moderator

    perhaps the oldest thread resurrection ever?

  • '17 '16 '15 Organizer '14 Customizer '13 '12 '11 '10

    no way. i saw one guy respond to a post about 5 years old. I just left him alone to think a reply was forthcoming.

  • @Guerrilla:

    perhaps the oldest thread resurrection ever?

    lol.  Well, I was just wandering around the forums and found it.  I wanted to give my two cents about it since Risk does get knocked quite a bit.

  • @Imperious:


    Dude, the game looks awesome!!!

  • Why are the Philippines not represented in the game of RISK? This would solve the advantage Australia has during game play.

  • '17 '16 '15 Organizer '14 Customizer '13 '12 '11 '10

    You can dl the map and files for it

  • @Jermofoot:

    Risk is like a gateway drug:  it introduces you to bigger and better games.   😄


  • If it weren’t for Risk there wouldn’t be games like Axis and Allies. Risk was a necessary step that led to the development of the better games that we have today.

  • @Moony:


    I think risk has its place, or places.

    Exactly.  I am playing Risk with my 6yr. old stepson right now, wondering when the time is right to bust out the A&A.


  • I seem to remember a game called castle risk and if I remember correctly, that game did suck.

  • Ugh risk is never ending at least A&A typically has a clear cut winner after turn 4…

  • I played monopoly last night and almost got into a fight. I had bring out the Brandy and Rum to cool tensions.

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