What Spray Paint Colors Best Match OOB Colors?

Because so many of the ship types are too similar (to my admittedly weak eyesight, at least), I have decided to use some poker chips of various colors as bases for these ships. These poker chips are the same exact size and type as the white/grey, red, and green ones already included in the game.

Since we need to be able to tip the capital ships (battleships and aircraft carriers) onto their sides (to indicate when they are damaged), I don’t need to uses poker chip bases for them. That leaves the other four classes (cruisers; destroyers; subs; transports). Since I did not want for these chips to use any color that is already used by the game pieces (wither as chips or as units), that left me with purple, orange, yellow, and pink as my options.

So, I’ll be using purple for cruisers, orange for destroyers, yellow for submarines, and pink for transports.

Here is an image of the work in progress: my cruisers on purple poker-chip bases.

cruisers.jpg

Thanks for tolerating my bragging about my project. ^_^

Franklin

@leebear

That’ll do it - and after you have used your playing pieces for a while, you’ll see if you need to spray a new layer of matt varnish.

2-3 layers - each layer thinly sprayed - and dry 24 hours between each layer.

You units will last a lifetime:+1:

Thank you both so much, I feel a lot better about painting now.  :-D

@CWO:

Thanks Cyanight and John – glad you find the identification charts useful.  For an actual history of the evolution of the sculpts, I highly recommend knp7765’s photographic inventory, located here…

http://www.axisandallies.org/forums/index.php?topic=23386.0

…because my I.D. charts approach the subject from a different angle: in almost every case, they simply show one representative sculpt for each nationally-distinctive design produced to depict each unit type that has appeared in A&A over the years.  The charts mostly ignore the many variations (some minor and some major) that have been seen in the sculpts – for example, the two versions of the Japanese field artillery piece, which was produced with the undercarriage either folded for towing or deployed for firing.  The only exceptions I made were for the Panther tank, the 88mm AAA gun and the Stuka dive-bomber (interestingly, all three being German units) because of the peculiar evolution of those three units over the course of A&A’s production history (especially in the case of the gun and the plane, which started out as completely different – and incorrectly-used – units compared to their current status).

Thanks again Marc, I had forgotten about his thread. this will be very helpful as well. :-)

john

@AlphaKappa:

How does their height compare to the OOB infantry pieces?  The pictures on HBG’s website make them look pretty tall, but without seeing them side-by-side, it’s hard to tell.

Can anyone offer any insight, or maybe even post a picture (if you’re feeling generous with your time)?  Any advice would be appreciated!   Thanks.

Note that the OOB infantry sculpts aren’t all the same height; they vary from nation to nation, as you can see from some of the pictures I posted here:

http://www.axisandallies.org/forums/index.php?topic=30440.0

Sorry for the late reply, been busy again and havent had time to meet up w friends and play.  I used acrylics to paint the pieces, easy stuff.to use and cheap.too, Michael’s is a good place.to buy some. I used a spray on glossy finish om the pieces themselves. The hardest units to paint was the infantry, so many details on them, straps, satchels bags, canteens boots and rifles, that takes lots of.time. the easiest units was the ships, just paint all grey, let them.dry then fill in the details like the deck and a roundel.

@gosanchez6 IMG_2948.JPG

Vallejo Japanese Army uniform for the win!

“painted playing pieces” are just that, decals are way out of scale, not the emblem the plastic of the decal itself is too nasty on minis this size. These paint jobs are amazing!