Hey NavySeal,
I have done the same thing. I am kind of a piece junkie so when new editions come out, I often buy several copies for all the pieces. Of course, then I end up with too many of certain things. Even with the unit sculpts. I will want a lot of infantry, tanks, artillery, planes, etc. but not so much with capital ships, even for US and Japan.
So, I count out what I want to keep for my own games and put the rest on eBay. Sometimes I might lump all the extras in a big lot or make up a bunch of little sets. There are guys out there that are even worse piece junkies than I am and my game pieces pretty much always sell.
As for the extra game boards, instruction books, cardboard accessories and dice, you can put them on eBay as well. Some guys out there have a lot of playing pieces but perhaps missed out on whatever game you are offering, or just don’t want to go out and buy a new one. I found the best way to ship these, especially with the game board, is to use a USPS Large Game Board Flat Rate Box. You can put all the game accessories in one of these along with some packing material to fill in the extra space and the USPS will ship it anywhere as long as it doesn’t weigh over 70 pounds. For shipping within the US, I think it costs $16.95. You should check usps.com to be sure. I don’t know about international shipping because I only ship within the US.
The MOST important part is to price these items to sell. Start low and take the shipping cost into account. If you start out with too high a price, you won’t get any bids and will be stuck with them. Even if your starting price isn’t too high, remember they will have to also pay shipping. So start low. You are probably not going to get what you paid. The object here is to at least make a little money back on your investment and provide some gaming materials to someone that can use them. Even if you just get the lowest bid, at least you get that amount for yourself and you get rid of the excess pieces.
Another option is to offer free shipping which can draw more looks at your items, but then you have to either start your bidding price to include the shipping costs or take a loss with the shipping charges.
Good luck.
Rule clarification needed sub naval occupation
-
I’m new to AAglobal. There is an issue the game allows. A sub can move into a fleet without a destroyer and submerge without combat so that it’s occupying the same zone as an enemy fleet during that fleet’s combat move. I’ve been told multiple times that transports and subs don’t block any movement, so I can move out during combat movement. However, I can’t find this rule anywhere in writing, so I’d like to clarify it here. Thanks for the responses in advance.
-
If the sub moves in combat movement it attacks, but:
@Pac:Step 2. Submarine Surprise Strike or Submerge (Sea
Battles Only)
This step is specific to attacking and defending submarines.
Before the general sea battle takes place (steps 3–5), both
attacking and defending submarines can choose to either make
a Surprise Strike die roll or submerge. A player may choose to
submerge all, some, or none of his or her submarines.If the sub moves in non combat movement:
@Pac:Sea Units: A sea unit can move through any friendly sea
zone. It can’t move into or through a hostile sea zone.
Unlike other sea units, submarines can move through and
even into hostile sea zones in the Noncombat Move phase.
However, a submarine must end its movement when it enters
a sea zone containing one or more enemy destroyers.Sea zones being made hostile:
@Pac:Sea Zones
Sea zones are either friendly or hostile. Friendly sea zones
contain no surface warships (this doesn’t include submarines
and transports) belonging to a power with which you are at
war. Hostile sea zones contain surface warships belonging
to a power with which you are at war. (The presence of a
surface warship belonging to an enemy power with which
you are not yet at war doesn’t make a sea zone hostile). -
Ok thanks Simon33. This is in the global europe rules which I found.