Thank you, gentlemen. We- FOlewnik and I- appreciate the feedback.
@Spitfire38 - It’s not the paint, it’s the brushes. FOlewnik does the ships with water based paint and I do the aircraft in enamel, both are finished with Testor’s Dullcote. FOlewnik relies heavily on his 10/0 brush for these US aircraft carrier decks, with help from his 20/0 and 0000 with the same on the hulls for camo detail and fine lines. I’d have to say I’m right around the same when I do the aircraft, but I do a lot with my incredibly old Testor’s 0 with a wooden handle. I’ve had it for about 40 years, now that I think about it! It (the zero brush) puts down the main coat on just about everything. My Army Painter brand “Psycho” and “Insane Detail” brushes are still in great shape and get a lot of use. The 20/0 I have did the cockpits for the SNAFU/Shapeways Hurricanes & Spitfires, and the above HBG Stirlings. I dip my 20/0 in whatever stays on the underside of the paint lid when the lid is set on the table. No thinner, clean brush. FOlewnik pours his paint onto one of those round plastic artist dishes with all the little round spaces for paint, one or two drops at a time, more if he’s doing a large area. He uses water based paint so he keeps the brush wet. It’s also important to “load” your brush properly- that is, to pick up the right amount of paint for what you want to do. If you have too much, paint the wooden holder to get rid of some, lol. If you notice FOlewnik’s ship holders that he made (angled pics of Sara above), they’re covered with paint stripes from where he’s removing paint from the brush and shaping the brush head to get a good point a lot of the time. But the idea is the smaller the detail wanted, the smaller the brush needed. It also helps to have a set of waterproof .005 pens, or just a black one if you can’t find a set of colors. Pens are best used after a base of dullcote to give the pen a smoother, porous surface to draw on. I still use pens, but FOlewnik has fallen in love with free-handing with a 20/0 paint brush and hasn’t used a pen since he finished the Japanese navy.
Looks like Tumbling Dice 1/600 scale aircraft are a decent option to fill any aircraft holes. But they run a little small, more Classic fighter size than the current A&A fighters. And for fighters, cost competitive with HBG. Twin engined heavy fighters like the PE-2, and the Ki-45 are a good match to the OOB P-38, but smaller than the OOB Mosquito.
I plan on printing some out from Siredblood’s link. I watched his video and you can certainly do it that way. My only concern with adhesive backed “stickers” is that with all the handling of game pieces, I can imagine that the stickers begin to peel up after a while. If you’re going to use the adhesive backed stickers, might I recommend to apply thin CA glue around the outside edge of the sticker after you’ve burnished it down on the carrier deck. You can get some thin CA at your local hobby shop where they sell RC planes, or just order it online. Because it is literally as thin as water, you’ll need to apply it with some sort of makeshift precision applicator. But after that, you won’t have to deal with annoying stickers that don’t want to stay down tight.
Also, if you use a glossy type sticker paper, after you’ve applied it and the carrier is “all done”, spray the entire piece with a light coat of Testor’s Dullcote spray laquer. You’ll get rid of the sheen both on the plastic and from the glossy paper. All the colors will “blend” together and the piece will look much better.
Getting in (4) new collections this week:
Austrailia & New Zealand Roundels
SS Shields and Flags
Japanese Meatballs without white border
Axis Minors Flags with Aircraft markings
ANZAC And AXIS MINORS.ai.pdf
thinbluebbq & others,
––Here’s the “link” to the “scans” of the I-94 decals.
––I-94 Enterprises doesn’t have EVERY decal scheme in the world, but they have very many that you can use for painting your A&A units. I not only RECOMMEND them, but I seriously suggest you look at the “SCANS” of the actual decals before ordering so that you’ll know exactly what you’re getting. I’d say these decals are cost-effective and will make your units look soo much SHARPER in their detail versus hand-painting, but that’s just MHO. So far I’ve already bought about $350 worth and I have a ways to go to get to everything detaild/painted. The pics Lucas showed above should be very helpful.
P.S.-Here are some “Risk Factories” that “Allworkandnoclay” has just completed with the aid of some
Just joined the forum because I was looking for ideas on customizing my new G40. It’s awesome to see all the information that you guys are posting. I’m just learning how to navigate through this forum and I’m looking forward to be a part of the community. Sorry if this is the wrong section to say hello.