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HBG Russian set painted

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georgemak1 '12 last edited by

A few more
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georgemak1 '12 last edited by

enjoy
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georgemak1 '12 last edited by

And since we are having Russian units, this is a set that I painted a couple years ago. I use them for NKVD units
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georgemak1 '12 last edited by

A different angle
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georgemak1 '12 last edited by

Last one
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georgemak1 '12 last edited by

Russian siberian troops
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georgemak1 '12 last edited by

Russian siberian troops 2
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Viracocha Customizer last edited by

Fantastic! Especially love seeing the whole army together - the Ruskie horde!
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Painting pieces vid - start to finish-
Customizations • • siredblood

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@Noble: I love that you touch your pinky to your other hand. I do the same when painting and it’s the best way to stay steady. Keep up the great work! LOL, that’s funny you noticed! Thanks for the comment!
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WIP Displaying HBG minis. (The "Living Boards."
Customizations • • sp111kg

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Im working on a display for my HBG Minis. But I decided to make a small table. But i picked a different way of making it. Instead of picking out where to place tanks and etc… I played a small war game on it. Hence “Living boards” as each bored is determined by the outcome of a battle. ORBAT Allied-3 M4 Sherman/ 1 F-86 Sabre OPFOR-4 T-34/ No air Rules Tanks Rear- Die roll of 2 Sides -4 Front-5 Top-2 To defeat a shot you have to out roll the die. Air support is a single sweep of 3 die. Air is called in rolling 4 die and getting 12 and up. Turns First 3 turns were moving. Turn 3 had the first M4 fire at a T34. At the end of turn 3, 1 Sherman had been lost. Turn 4 saw the loss of one T34 Turn 5 saw the loss of another M4 Turn 6 saw the loss of another T34 and a filed Allied air support call in. Turn 7 saw no losses despite the Successful role for a Sabre air support. Turn 8 saw the lose of the Last M4. Result. The Bridge leading out of town (Occupied by OPFOR) is blocked with the remains of the M4s. The ORBAT forces lost half their strength, and must await engineers to clear the bridge. The Bridge is still intact, but may have some damages due to the exploding tanks. Allied forces failed to establish a front line on the other side of the bridge. Images Is they dont show up, right click and view image. Ill work on fixing them ASAP. Turn 1 Turn 2 Turn 3 Turn 5 Turn 6 Turn 8 Out Come OPFOR can push towards a Allied Airbase, where hopefully the Allies can hold to keep Air Support close (12 or Higher. If lost, the die role becomes 18 or higher.) ORBAT 4 Allied Tanks 1 Allied Air 6 Opfor Tanks 1 Opfor Air Any comments on how im making my displays? Also hope this is a proper area to post this customization, or would it fall in minis.
What paints to use?
Customizations • • FlyingTigers

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I have seen lots of people here use acrylics and I have on occasion. Most of my paints are enamels though. I find that is stays wet longer (which is a good thing) and doesn’t clump up nearly as much on your brush. I also use enamels in my airbrush. I find that enamels are actually much easier to clean than acrylics. While acrylics are water soluble, they don’t just dissolve, especially if already dry. It involves a great deal of scrubbing and scraping. With enamels, all you need is some mineral spirits cleaner and it takes the paint right off with very little effort. Cleaning acrylic paint out of my airbrush was hell the first time I did it… never using acrylics in there again. In terms of the finish, I can only assume that enamels hold up better to bumps and scrapes than acrylic paint does. Someone once asked if enamels, by default, have a glossy finish to them. They do not, as long as you are using flat enamels, which seem to be the standard. I use flats and they have an excellent, non-shiny finish. I feel like enamel colors are a little deeper too, on the whole, but I suppose it depends on the brand of acrylic you use. Vallejo seems to be a popular choice for acrylics. I use predominantly Model Masters (Testors) enamels. In general, I would just said to find a brand you like to work with and produces the results you like. Don’t buy super cheap paint… you will get the results you pay for. Good luck!
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Customizations • • iwugrad

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Nice work , lots of detail
Painted German Pieces?
Customizations • • Spitfire38

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soem as well http://www.axisandallies.org/forums/index.php?topic=21680.15
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Enamel Paint
Customizations • • Andy6049

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@Andy6049: Thank you all for the information.Â Hopefully, I will start my painting project soon.Â Getting a new airbrush isn’t an option right now, but I will definitely keep it in mind for later.Â The plastic brush I have works decent when its not being temperamental. I will be experimenting with spray paint, at least for primer. When I start to finish some some, I will post a new thread with all the information of how, what , when, where, I did to paint the pieces.Â Hopefully, it will benefit someone to wants to do the same and be as inspirational as the amazing work already on this forum has been for me. Can’t wait to see your work. I’m glad to see this part of the forums grow. It has been awesome seeing everyone’s work. I hope to be painting again, soon, myself. Glad to have another member to the team. Cheers! John
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Customizations • • Wolfshanze

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@Wolfshanze: On HBG’s website, they have ONE plane, and it’s called the “F4F Hellcat”. I was inferring there’s no such thing as an “F4F Hellcat”… It’s either an F4F Wildcat, or an F6F Hellcat… but HBG has the plane on it’s website named incorrectly (either the #designation, or the nickname). My favorite American airplane nomenclature from that era is the nickname which pilots gave to the greatly-disliked Curtiss SB2C Helldiver: “Son of a B––, 2nd Class”.
Thinning Paint and Fine Details?
Customizations • • cavestone

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@cavestone I also use vallejo paints. The key question here is are you brush painting, or using an airbrush, or both? The Vallejo paints have a “Model Air” line that comes pre-thinned. You can buy a thinning product (from them) to add to the “Model Color” series paints, which are the exact same thing, just more concentrated and thicker. If you’ve never used an airbrush, its a bit finicky–it requires regular cleaning and a without a good brush and compressor the paint will flow very inconsistently. The process will be very frustrating unless you use the pre-thinned paints because the brush can only blow paint that is within a certain set of thickness parameters that are difficult to achieve, especially if you are trying to mix the air in the brush’s reserve or in small quantities. That’s why having copies of both Model Air and Model Color is fine by me–unlike Warhammer 40K I’m using primarily earthy colors, greens, dunkelgelb and dunkelgrau… other AFV and camoflage colors and so i don’t need a collection of primary or bright colors. But I recommend it. The airbrush creates a sublime, beautiful layer and slight mix variations can be used to create shadows, grades, etc. Then you go back over with your brush, adding highlights, lines, details. Then, back over again with a drybrushing…then back to the airbrush to blast Flory Wash all over it. Can’t see your photos, you can’t post photos until you have a certain post count. I wouldn’t use water to thin paints, they are water soluble but the mix and viscosity is all wrong (though water is obv. cheap and easy to clean up) As for oil-based paints, these require thinner to clean up, they are much more difficult to drybrush with and are not used for airbrushing. The days of the old testors paints is long behind us–even apple barrel paints are easier to work with and cheaper. The early painting methods were much more about glomming thick layers of paint onto lead miniatures and the modern approach with water based paint and a series of different techniques creates much better results.