Cards for Axis and Allies 1940


  • any card pics yet?


  • Would really like an update.  Seems like a great idea.


  • Hey Danny.

    Great job. I loved your idea.
    But do you have something about espionnage.
    The russian spies were realy activ during WWII.


  • great project, im interested on your cards, can you post them?


  • Dannyboy hasn’t been active since March of 2013.


  • Yo, guys…

    First: Dannyboy & Ghost One (and others): Great work on these cards!
    Second: I see the thread stopped a few years (!) ago…anyone else picked up on the idea?
    Thirdly: I have!…I’ve been reading through all the posts, and i am now trying to gather all the threads (so to speak) and make it one functional system.

    This is a huge project, i feel: it will take a lot of time and game-playing to get thing just right.
    So far i have finished all the “Cards v.1.0” and i’m going to spend this summer correcting,  polishing and fine adjusting.

    My problem is that i need help testing and trying out these cards; anyone?

    A few words/thoughts:

    1. Cards cost 10 IPC.
    2. Before the game starts: each national rolls a die: 1-2= 1 card, 3-4=2 cards, 5-6=3 cards. Each player can choose which cards to start with. Some cards need to be played before G1. Starting cards are free.
    3. R&D/technology can not be ignored, they are now intertwined with the Cards System.
    4. To get more cards into play: some cards lower further card price.
    5. Cards come in 5 categories
          a) Corporations (CO)
          b) National Advantages (NA)
          c) Puppets (PS)
          d) Cabinet Ministers (CM)
          e) Chief of Staff (CoS)
    6. When you buy a card: you don’t need to show it as it is not “active”. Only when you show your card to the rest does it go into play.
    7. You can only have one active CoS at any moment in time, buying a new CoS-card mean you are changing CoS. This only applies CoS.
      8 ) All Character Cards (Cos, PS and CM) may be assassinated (out of the game, never coming back) or wounded (put back into the deck). Some characters have the ability to this.
    8. Some cards refer to other cards or R&D; some cards give discount on other cards, some have objectives that require other cards into play, and some cards negates other cards (example:UK Enigma Code negates/renders useless the German Enigma Machine, and as long as Sovjet Union has Lucy Spy Ring card, the Enigma does not affect them).
    9. There is more trading between/among allied nations and the axis (the give each other support in different ways).
    10. Large nations have a lot of cards (ex Germany has about 50) and small nations have fewer cards (France only has 6 or 8 ) to choose from.
    11. CoS-> usually advantage in field/warfare/execution, change CoS -> change tactic/area of focus
    12. CM & Puppets -> usually political and intelligence/spy -related.
    13. CO -> material/units/production
    14. NA -> any-/everything
    15. you can buy as many cards as you like
    16. you can not sell cards or get a refund

    Comments are very welcome :)


  • i made some cards to ( russia , germany have around 20 ,france, italy less)
    There 4 types: Generals, Admiral of fleet ,  Air comanders and last ones are cabinet staf.
    every power can made combination: 1 gen, 1Adm, 1 air 1 cab<  or 2 gen 1 adm\1 air 1 cab
    generals must participate in combat if player want to use their bonus (bonus is used only in combat where is general), admirals must be placed in same teritory with naval base and air comander on same teritory with air base . Im in test phase, but for now i noticed , theres problem when you control more than one power… to much cards an i forgot to get some bonuses some turns… in my opinion max 3 card per nation will be ok


  • i see…
    well, there are a lot of different systems around, the main thing is that it bring a bit more action and variation to the game, i suppose.

    yeah, two-player game can be a bit daunting, hehe…it can get really messy, really fast…

    having a maximum of 3 cards sounds like a good way to limit the confusion. i’ve found out, that if i am ever going to have a fighting chance of keeping track of it all, i need to visualize and concretize things;
    we’re using printed money (historical board gaming), have physical IC on the board, printed National Objectives and a chart with units statistics, start income, turn sequence (where we have added Convoy Disruption as the last item, making sure we never forget to check for it) and more.
    The same thing we needed to do with these National Advantage Cards, so we just printed them out (i can post them here (if anyone is interested) when i figure out how to do so:).
    This alleviate the problem somewhat (at least for our group), but it is still difficult:)

    In practice (and we haven’t played that many times) we either go for bare-bone-classic version, or with the extended version with cards.
    the first one we play competitive and since we are all well familiar with all rules we can strategize a bit more and compare with other games/groups.
    the latter we play “for fun”, meaning we don’t take thing that seriously and play a bit more fast and dirty, and the social aspects is even stronger (more players, food&beer, discussions over events during ww2 when they show up on cards etc…)
    they are (to us) just two different settings, and we accept them being different…

    the main thing, i guess, is to have fun :)


  • absolutely, fun is on first place :)

  • '16

    I’ve put together a sample card for General “Vinegar Joe” Stillwell, if anyone’s interested.

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