-A Painting Tutorial and Resource for A&A Global-

  • '16 Customizer

    For those of you interested in my storage solution for my pieces, wait no longer. Below is a picture of my custom build storage box.

    This is only one of three that I was planning on building. Each box would hold one nation on each side; this one was originally constructed for the Germans and the Japanese, which is why I used the black and read felt. The Axis Powers!

    I only ever got around to building one, but I will need to build two more pretty soon, as this one is too full at the moment.

    The materials I used:

    • Plastic container with snap on lid (Target)

    • Long strips of balsa wood (Michaels)

    • Sheets of felt, cut to size (Hobby Lobby)

    • Hot glue

    • Exacto knife

    The rest is pretty self explanatory. You just measure how big you want the individual sections to be, cut the balsa wood to size, glue the felt down, glue the balsa wood down, and you’re done.

    I’ve found that it works pretty well for my storage needs, because it keeps the pieces secure and non-scratched because of the felt. My original idea was to see if I could fit in a second level, like a removable tray, but I scratched that idea. I also wanted to spray paint the boxes black and then paint or put a sticker of the national insignia on the box to make it look really professional. You can take the idea and run with it - you guys are creative.

    Post your storage solutions here, or let us know how you keep your pieces safe and sound!

  • '18 '17 '16 '15 Customizer

    Man that is a lot of painted pieces! I like the idea of felt. Nice job on your storage, :-)

  • '18 '17 '16 '15 Customizer

    What are you painting next? :-D

  • '16 Customizer

    @John:

    What are you painting next? :-D

    Your Japanese military. I don’t have time to do anymore painting before I move, so the paints are all away for a few months.


  • hey spitfire these pieces are awesome!  zooming in on some of your storage boxes you infantry men look highly detailed!


  • I like your color scheme for the American carriers too.  Question do you use like a ink wash or something to get out details in the hands and face of the men?  Ive seen a few of these impressive details from a few guys on here, just curious what guys do…… look so much better than just the flesh colored blob of a head that my guys have lol

  • '18 '17 '16 '15 Customizer

    @Spitfire38:

    @John:

    What are you painting next? :-D

    Your Japanese military. I don’t have time to do anymore painting before I move, so the paints are all away for a few months.

    LOL, got you! :-D

  • '16 Customizer

    @jwo1984:

    I like your color scheme for the American carriers too.  Question do you use like a ink wash or something to get out details in the hands and face of the men?  Ive seen a few of these impressive details from a few guys on here, just curious what guys do…… look so much better than just the flesh colored blob of a head that my guys have lol

    Hey jwo1984 - sorry that I’m just now seeing this! I somehow let it slip.

    I do use an ink wash for my soldiers skin (brown). In fact, I use a wash on the whole piece. Depending on the uniform color, I will choose either brown (most uniforms; green, beige or khaki esp.) or black (mostly for blacks or greys, i.e. Germans.) The skin is always brown. I only began this recently, but I find that like you say, it brings out the details. It’s the same method as any other ink wash. However, make sure you don’t let the initial ‘skin’ coat of paint blob out the details. By this I mean don’t apply the skin color too thickly so that the face turns into a featureless blob. If you lose the nose, eye sockets, helmet rim, etc, then the ink wash won’t have any crevices to get into and shadow for that realistic look.

  • '16 Customizer

    If you are coming to this thread by way of the A&A.org homepage, welcome! I’m so glad you found it. I hope that the article, and the information contained in it helps current or aspiring painters. Please feel free to ask questions about anything and everything, request tutorials, or comment on how you customize.


  • Spitfire38,

    Stumbled onto this tutorial as I just joined the site.  Wow- Really impressive- not just the painting and techniques but also the descriptions, tips, and interaction.
    Thanks for sharing your work with us.


  • Yup Spitfire 38 those are awesome
    I have a question about what you call “nationalist troops” that insignia you made at the bottom…those soviet troops …
    How did you do it? Any special  trick up hour sleeve od it is just patience and steady hand?
    Cheers

  • '16 Customizer

    @Proud:

    Spitfire38,

    Stumbled onto this tutorial as I just joined the site.  Wow- Really impressive- not just the painting and techniques but also the descriptions, tips, and interaction.
    Thanks for sharing your work with us.

    Thank you! I’m glad that you’ve enjoyed the work.

    @Wizl007:

    Yup Spitfire 38 those are awesome
    I have a question about what you call “nationalist troops” that insignia you made at the bottom…those soviet troops …
    How did you do it? Any special  trick up hour sleeve od it is just patience and steady hand?
    Cheers

    The hammer and sickle design on the base doesn’t have any real trick to it. I paint the base red and then the boots black. When that is finished, I move on to the yellow hammer and sickle. As you said, it takes patience and a steady hand, and it will probably require you to make some minor adjustments using red or yellow. For example, if I paint the handle of the hammer too wide, I can make it thinner by going back over part of the handle with red, which is the same color as the base of the piece.


  • @Spitfire38:

    When that is finished, I move on to the yellow hammer and sickle. As you said, it takes patience and a steady hand

    To paraphrase a flyer I once saw advertisting a Friday-night alcohol-fuelled “Communist party” being held by some university students: it’s hard to paint a tiny hammer and sickle when you’re hammered and pickled.  :-D

  • '16 Customizer

    @CWO:

    @Spitfire38:

    When that is finished, I move on to the yellow hammer and sickle. As you said, it takes patience and a steady hand

    To paraphrase a flyer I once saw advertisting a Friday-night alcohol-fuelled “Communist party” being held by some university students: it’s hard to paint a tiny hammer and sickle when you’re hammered and pickled.   :-D

    Ha, that’s good :D

  • '18 '17 '16 '15 Customizer

    @CWO:

    @Spitfire38:

    When that is finished, I move on to the yellow hammer and sickle. As you said, it takes patience and a steady hand

    To paraphrase a flyer I once saw advertisting a Friday-night alcohol-fuelled “Communist party” being held by some university students: it’s hard to paint a tiny hammer and sickle when you’re hammered and pickled.   :-D

    LOL, that is funny! :-D

  • '22 '16

    Hi Spitfire, Fantastic work!  I have a bunch of pieces I painted for my global game (maybe I will get around to posting pictures sometime).  I had a question about the clear coat process you use.  I have always used some Krylon spray on matte clear coat.  Maybe 2-3 coats  I also store my pieces in a box altogether.  But it seems that over time I get alot of paint chipping of the models.  Now I do use them at least once a month to play so there is some wear.  Any suggestions on getting a better more robust clear coat?

  • '16 Customizer

    @majikforce:

    Hi Spitfire, Fantastic work!  I have a bunch of pieces I painted for my global game (maybe I will get around to posting pictures sometime).  I had a question about the clear coat process you use.  I have always used some Krylon spray on matte clear coat.  Maybe 2-3 coats  I also store my pieces in a box altogether.  But it seems that over time I get alot of paint chipping of the models.  Now I do use them at least once a month to play so there is some wear.  Any suggestions on getting a better more robust clear coat?

    It sounds like you have a thorough process for keeping your pieces protected. I don’t have any suggestions, just a question or two. Did you use a primer on your pieces when you painted them, or are they just paint on OOB plastic? Do you play with people who rough up the pieces and hold them in their hands a lot?

  • '22 '16

    I do use a primer. After reading some other posts on painting I realized I may not have properly washed the pieces before priming. I have also learned that different plastics react to the paint in different ways. Which makes sense since all my infantry pieces are custom sets I bought. I don’t seem to have trouble with any of the OOB vehicles I painted. Nobody seems to handle them roughly or too much but at least one person spills a box of pieces every game night. My turn was last month.

  • '16 Customizer

    @majikforce:

    I do use a primer. After reading some other posts on painting I realized I may not have properly washed the pieces before priming. I have also learned that different plastics react to the paint in different ways. Which makes sense since all my infantry pieces are custom sets I bought. I don’t seem to have trouble with any of the OOB vehicles I painted. Nobody seems to handle them roughly or too much but at least one person spills a box of pieces every game night. My turn was last month. Haha that’s good.

    Yeah, it is probably the plastic bonding with the paint. A soapy wash and scrub beforehand and a primer is your best bet.


  • For those of you who apply primer before painting your miniatures, are you using cans of spray paint like Krylon or the brush on kind like those sold by Vallejo and others?  If you’ve used both what is your preference or pros and cons of each?

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