What runs out? What pieces are there a lot fo extra of?

Very interesting, Mr. Marc.  We have some friends here in Kansas City that work/teach/study at the Leavenworth staff college and we were just discussing a few weeks ago the German Staff College Kriegspiele Game and how these original 19th c. simulations are the origin of modern wargaming, with many of the modern conventions reflected, such as dice, complex ruleset, modular setup, special rules/exceptions, piece types, attempted realism, etc.  The professor in our group spoke about how he uses modern wargames to teach modern warfighting and what games/rules they emphasize, he’s basically a professional gamer (jealous!).

I find it interesting that many of the older Jules Verne style early wargames, like the one you describe, required some measure of dexterity in order to fire at your enemy as opposed to dice based games that simulate the hits/misses/damage.  Real naval gunfire has some element of timing/patterning/watching your misses in order to zero onto your target, there are some different considerations than trying to fire a pog or something.  I think we would hate to lose to people who are simply better shots than we are rather than better generals.

My group usually uses control markers for 10, especially in stacks that won’t be splitting up anytime soon (like in Moscow)

@Patchman123:

@knp7765:

Yeah, I’ve gone kind of piece crazy myself. I have a specific set of pieces for each nation in Global 40 I call my gaming sets. Here is what comprises each nation set:
100 Infantry
50 Artillery
50 Mechanized Infantry
50 Tanks
40 Anti-Aircraft Artillery
40 Fighters
30 Tactical Bombers
30 Strategic Bombers
40 Transports
40 Submarines
40 Destroyers
30 Cruisers
20 Battleships
20 Aircraft Carriers
100 Control Markers
And that is just OOB units! The only exception is China, but they still have 100 OOB Infantry units. I also have some HBG units for China for artillery, tanks and fighters (some house rules allow China to have tanks).
To get these totals, I actually got several copies of the game when they came out and cannibalized them for pieces. I was able to sell off extras which helped me make back some of the money I spent, but it was still pretty pricy. 
On top of this, I have huge collections of HBG’s sets in just about every color available. This part is really silly on my part because I pretty much use the Olive Drab for US, Dark Grey for Germany, Burnt Orange for Japan, Maroon for Russia. Basically the OOB colors. So all of those other colors, like the Axis Minors, Neutral sets, US Supplement for Allies and alternate colors for the Japanese Supplement and Expansion sets just basically sit there in their containers. I keep thinking I will use them in trying out the HBG 1939 Global variant because it has all these little countries and you can use all the variant colors to represent them, but I never get around to doing so. My group simply prefers Global 40.
When I think back on how much I have invested in all these game pieces, it almost makes me sick. I enjoy my games and it’s a fun little hobby, but there is such a thing as too much.
Obviously having such large sets is not necessary. You can always use chips which in some cases you simply have to because of space limitations on the board. I hope you are able to find your balance. However, I must agree with YG, the pieces in a single game are simply not enough.

How many PER game, NOT total. What I mean by total is counting Europe 1940 Sec. Ed. and Pacific 1940 Sec. Ed separately, instead of as one game.

You can calm down - that posting is 3 and 1/2 years old and was just showing off how much money he’d wasted on extra pieces how many extra units he had for playing A&A.

There’s a Patchman123 on BGG who asked similar questions earlier this week - I answered the main questions he asked there. Assuming Patchman123 on A&A.org is the same person, I answered your question there and to help out the forum I’ll answer the same question here:

@midnight_reaper:

@Patchman123:

Could I please have an inventory on how many pieces there are with Europe 1940 First Edition and Europe 1940 Second Edition for all the countries involved in the game, such as France, United Kingdom, Italy, United States,Germany, and the Soviet Union?

I noticed that when I was selling Axis & Allies 1942 First Edition from 2009, that some Axis & Allies pieces from other games have been mixed in.

Could please have an EXACT count on how many pieces there are supposed to be in these games?

Exactly how many pieces are in all the editions of Axis & Allies from 1981-2017?

I am trying to sort my game out.

Let me point you at some online resources to sort things out. First, do note that some pieces are only in the First Edition, some only in the Second Edition. This post from axisandallies.org discuss which pieces changed between editions: www.axisandallies.org/p/whats-new-in-axis-allies-pacific-1940-and-europe-1940-second-editions/

That said, here is a listing from the Harris Game Design forums that lists what comes in a copy of Europe 1940, First Edition (well, both Europe and Pacific, but that will get you to Europe…): http://www.harrisgamedesign.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=18469

And here is a forum post from axisandallies.org that lists what comes in a copy of Europe 1940, Second Edition (well, both Europe and Pacific, but that will get you to Europe…): https://www.axisandallies.org/forums/index.php?topic=30066.0

-Midnight_Reaper

Source: https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1943468/number-pieces-europe-1940-first-edition-and-europe

What are your further questions?

-Midnight_Reaper

southern france is easier than normandy g1. you can get one of those fighters in east europe somewhere (you know the one that is out of range from naval and you usually send to yugoslavia than italy). 3 mech fighter good to go.

I prefer to just do france. Though I like the southern france move when I am doing some kind of sea lion play. Prevents uk from merging fleet off gibraltar.

In this instance I prefer to take yugoslavia.

However if I am undecided… yeah I like the strafe. Shove east poland g2 no prob, start advancing sooner. It is really good if you plan on going all in on russia G5. It super all in, all the allies have to do is figure out a way to save russia. That is the whole game right there.

@PeterPaaPan:

Hey looking for a map with the units on as they start! Found 1-2 of them, but impossible to see what was on it cuz of poor ress!

Hope u can help me! PPP

I would like that too.

Yes, we have yet to run out of the blue pieces for Italy.  Italy might run out of aircraft if you bought lots of them, but otherwise one set is fine.

I have been thinking about adding the Japanese from A&AP for the Russians(they’re red) but there’s no mech/CA/or Tac bombers.

I also have been thinking of using the Russians from A&AE, they are more red then the new ones.  Still no mechs or Tac bombers:(

I’m just a regular Joe who is happy someone identified a need and was willing to do the legwork =)

@rockrobinoff:

@nutbar:

I want to see a list of the countries grouped into the following categories:

Playing strategy and typeWhich coutntries should play Offensive?..…

simply put: A&A success, and the type of generalization you are looking for, do not go hand in hand. like any complex game, the better the player the less likely you are to look at any given situation through a ‘rule of thumb’ type of lens. “Russia should play defensive?” What does that even mean? Russia should play well, end of story, and what that means depends on so many different factors it is impossible to meaningfully generalize.

Well of course, but the idea is that most of the time, the Soviets are focusing less on capturing German territories, and more on preventing the capture of their own, thus being defensive play. Granted, it’s not to say “Russia should never attack someone” but generally, they’re fighting more for protecting themselves than harming Germany.