@vodot Sir, this is brilliant! I always though the Dutch East Indies looked ugly on that map. So with these overlays, not only does it look so much better, there’s more territories for more strategies! Also, this fixes my biggest problem with 50th: Italy. Italy originally only had three territories, and was overall irrelevant to the game as a whole. But here, There’s more territories for them, and a new pair of frontlines with IEA. Australia is improved too, which is a welcome quality-of-life addition.
Global 1940 (metal map)
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Nice!
I wish I had the time and creativity to do such a good looking thing.
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Terrific-looking game table! Very nice job. When you say “drilling all the pieces as well”, do you mean drilling holes into the undersides of all the plastic combat units and inserting magnets into them?
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Awesome man! Can’t wait for more pics with the magnets.
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What an awesome board! Gotta put Honolulu on the correct island, though.
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Honolulu is on the wrong island by default. Ask Larry Harris why he put it there.
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@CWO:
Terrific-looking game table! Very nice job. When you say “drilling all the pieces as well”, do you mean drilling holes into the undersides of all the plastic combat units and inserting magnets into them?
Exactly. I use a 2mm drill and then bore it out with a 3mm drill. Using a 3mm drill on the chips without a 2mm hole first will crack them. I just use the same process for the miniature bases. The magnets I am using are 3mm diameter and 1mm thickness. I put a little super glue in the hole I drill then insert the magnet. On planes I use 2mm magnets and have to make sure the polarity is matched with the carriers or else the planes will fly away, hehe. I am also putting small 10mm felt circles on the bottom of the pieces that have bases on them which is infantry and artillery(I added bases to them to make it easier to attach a magnet). I will post some pics of my progress.
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May the force be with you while drilling, Cyanight ;-)!
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Exactly. I use a 2mm drill and then bore it out with a 3mm drill. Using a 3mm drill on the chips without a 2mm hole first will crack them. I just use the same process for the miniature bases. The magnets I am using are 3mm diameter and 1mm thickness. I put a little super glue in the hole I drill then insert the magnet. On planes I use 2mm magnets and have to make sure the polarity is matched with the carriers or else the planes will fly away, hehe. I am also putting small 10mm felt circles on the bottom of the pieces that have bases on them which is infantry and artillery(I added bases to them to make it easier to attach a magnet). I will post some pics of my progress.
Thanks for the details. It’s clear that you have good eyesight, a steady hand and lots of patience to carry out this kind of work on a full set of game sculpts. :-) I like the image of a fighter coming in for a carrier landing and bouncing off the deck because of a polarity problem – I think the carrier’s LSO (Landing Signals Officer) would characterize that as a wave-off.
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@CWO:
Exactly. I use a 2mm drill and then bore it out with a 3mm drill. Using a 3mm drill on the chips without a 2mm hole first will crack them. I just use the same process for the miniature bases. The magnets I am using are 3mm diameter and 1mm thickness. I put a little super glue in the hole I drill then insert the magnet. On planes I use 2mm magnets and have to make sure the polarity is matched with the carriers or else the planes will fly away, hehe. I am also putting small 10mm felt circles on the bottom of the pieces that have bases on them which is infantry and artillery(I added bases to them to make it easier to attach a magnet). I will post some pics of my progress.
Thanks for the details. It’s clear that you have good eyesight, a steady hand and lots of patience to carry out this kind of work on a full set of game sculpts.  :-)  I like the image of a fighter coming in for a carrier landing and bouncing off the deck because of a polarity problem – I think the carrier’s LSO (Landing Signals Officer) would characterize that as a wave-off.
I actually have the polarity switched for axis vs allied CV. There is no possible way to accidently put an allied plane on an axis CV or vice versa. :)
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May the force be with you while drilling, Cyanight ;-)!
Thank you, its definitely a lesson in patience.
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I actually have the polarity switched for axis vs allied CV. There is no possible way to accidently put an allied plane on an axis CV or vice versa. :)
An ingenious detail – and a potentially novel form of defense against kamikaze attacks. :-D
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Super cool! Besides a bump messing up a game, are the magnets strong enough to stick if the board goes vertical?
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@cb4:
Super cool! Besides a bump messing up a game, are the magnets strong enough to stick if the board goes vertical?
Yes they are in fact… I bet with increased chip stacks though they might fall. One of the reasons I modified the chips to the following. With the added new green chip (3) and blue chip (10) I can now represent any unit from 1-20 using between 0-4 chips. Since Global 1940 is very spread out its difficult to determine the quantity of an army from a distance. The various colors, gray(1), green(3), red(5) and blue(10) will now help resolve that problem by reducing the stack size.
1 No chip
2 Gray
3 2x Gray
4 Green
5 Gray + Green
6 Red
7 Gray + Red
8 2x Gray + Red
9 Green + Red
10 Gray + Green + Red
11 Blue
12 Gray + Blue
13 2x Gray + Blue
14 Green + Blue
15 Gray + Green + Blue
16 Red + Blue
17 Gray + Red + Blue
18 2x Gray + Red + Blue
19 Green + Red + Blue
20 Gray + Green + Red + Blue
21 2x BlueAs you can see the max stack size for units up to 20 is 4 which is much easier to count from a distance and should stick the board no problem. The chips hold together very nicely. I will post a pic when I get all the chips done.
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Nicely planned out to reduce the max stack size. Now, with the right mounting hardware (and a large enough wall :-)) you’ll be able to display a game as artwork!
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Would you be willing to share your edited file? I would be very interested in printing it myself with your additions.
Thanks!
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Would you be willing to share your edited file? I would be very interested in printing it myself with your additions.
Thanks!
Yeah me too actually!
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Great job Cyanight,
I love to see members take the time and effort to take their gaming experience to another level. I like your Research and Development charts a lot better than mine, if you help the other members print their own version of your map, I will recommend you for a customizer badge.
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But he should share his work with a link so others can enjoy. Use Mediafire
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@Imperious:
But he should share his work with a link so others can enjoy. Use Mediafire
Agreed.
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Another thought. You could also put us in touch with the sign company so we could purchase the printed map directly.
I’d suggest you resell them, but that would likely put you in trouble with Avalon Hill, the publisher of Axis & Allies.
Thanks again for sharing. It is an awesome idea!